Acro PAR

+1 on more flow and less nutrients. But your LPS's will hate you!

I have 3 acros that hate NO3 and brown out pretty easily. I have other acros that don't seem to care about NO3 nearly as much. All corals are different, so you have to pick your poison and focus on what corals are most important to you.
 
A lot of my acros went through the brown to green to full color stages as I increased light. It takes a long time for them to settle in and really start kicking the color in. At least in my tank, but they will definitely color up eventually. Just my quick 2¢ without getting into the whole nutrient/lack of nutrient discussion.
 
Yea I'm going to slowly increase my PAR up. I have an easier time keeping my PO4 at 0 rather then .02... I would say my PO4 fluctuates between 0-.04 in a given week before I change out GFO. But if I change out GFO before it's all exhausted I can keep it at zero. Is keeping it as zero better then the up and down? I would assume there would be some phosphate in the water before GFO gets it.
 
I Increased my flow of the MP40s. Im hoping that since all my Acros will be on the top of my reef, I can maintain a high flow and high light on the top of the reef.

Thanks for all your help and input guys!

Mp40 are the wrong power head for this type of high flow at the top only. Tunze or even the Neptune wave will do a better job to keep the flow at the top. The mp line of pumps create a big under toe of flow.
 
Yea I'm going to slowly increase my PAR up. I have an easier time keeping my PO4 at 0 rather then .02... I would say my PO4 fluctuates between 0-.04 in a given week before I change out GFO. But if I change out GFO before it's all exhausted I can keep it at zero. Is keeping it as zero better then the up and down? I would assume there would be some phosphate in the water before GFO gets it.
if your agressivley pulling water through gfo(reactor) the test is in error as the Po is being stripped. Po, pretty sure, increases and decreases much more slowly than No.(thus my confusion about folks who claim to have a Po spike).

Personally, from my few years of acro abuse Id stop worrying about any of it, and just slowly turn up the lights. Use a par or lux meter. I have a stupidly mixed reef with sps lps softies all over the place.
some of the corals are astounding, some not so much, some it took a month or two for them to come around.
palys xenia stylo acros ALL at the same distance from the light. on the sand I have palys stylos odd sps lps etc, all doing well too. My nutrints ahave gone up and down etc etc Po from 0 to .25 and stuff still grows fine.
I use fairly high light overall. (40,000 lux/600 par aprox) At the top of the tank. thats inches from xenia and my largest acro, 10 in from where my green stylo got so big I had to sell it.
fwiw my flow is also quite bizarre, probably "too low" for acros, the ones, yes, that are growing fine.

these are concessions you have to make in a truly Mixed reef.
 
I have found the less junk you run on your tank , the better it seems to do . I run my lights straight out at 100% well ok I turn down the green and red to about 20% and whites on 85% . I used to run GFO and carbon 24/7/365 but now all I run is a skimmer live rock and a ton of flow while running gfo PO would go nuts then come down , and up again . My theory is that I was not allowing nature to follow its own course and balance itself out . So its not a secret , start slow , go slow and don't overwhelm your system with too many fish too fast . It took about 1.5 years for the system to seemingly balance out but once it did everything started growing like weeds . Take this for what its worth , use your own opinions make your own mistakes and find your own success , happy reefing
 

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