Alk and light issues

Agreed. Thats why i stopped dosing. It was only 2- 4 ml alk and about 20 ml ca to keep it at 450 and 11.
 
Are you using rodi water?

In that picture I would say it needs more light, the plays are reaching a bit.

But I belive some good reccomendations were already given in the other thread about your lights.
 
Agreed. Thats why i stopped dosing. It was only 2- 4 ml alk and about 20 ml ca to keep it at 450 and 11.

Is there a reason you're trying to keep it at dKH of 11? Again, I have no idea what your NO3 and PO4 levels are given the API kits but there seems to be a relationship between higher alkalinity and higher NO3/PO4 levels. I've never kept my tank in this area so I cant say with any experience that this is a true statement.
 
There was more... two acros, a green slimer, sunburst monti, green leptoseris, green digitata, and one It more blue one i cant remember.
 
Is there a reason you're trying to keep it at dKH of 11? Again, I have no idea what your NO3 and PO4 levels are given the API kits but there seems to be a relationship between higher alkalinity and higher NO3/PO4 levels. I've never kept my tank in this area so I cant say with any experience that this is a true statement.
Red sea suggests to run at 11 for growth. I thought that was a good idea since after a yr with no growth.
 
Red sea suggests to run at 11 for growth. I thought that was a good idea since after a yr with no growth.

Have you checked out this video? There seems to be a relationship between high flow, high alkalinity, and higher nutrient levels. I have no first hand experience with this; I have higher flow (roughly 40x/hr in my tank) but my alkalinity is roughly 8.25 (until yesterday) with nutrient levels that are, uh, low'ish (NO3 2.5-5 and PO4 .05). Everything seems to be doing well at these levels but I just recently went SPS dominant (last two weeks).
 
There is a definite relation ship. It availability to the coral to produce the Skelton. But the nutrients are are also neede for the rest of the metabolism of the animal.
Quite commonly in tanks that run higher alk, a tell tale sign of low nutrints is "burnt tips" the bone growing faster than the flesh.

My guess is the alk was higher than tested or perhaps was spiked, and the light level was higher at the time too.

Another good read on nutrints
https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/h...d-i-dont-know-what-to-do.210035/#post-2401666
 
The lights were set higher when they were 2" lower so i raised the fixture and turned it down. I have the flow up to 42x the mj1200,hydor nano and a hydor return at 300gph. Wish i had a par meter and some hanna checkers...
 
The lights were set higher when they were 2" lower so i raised the fixture and turned it down. I have the flow up to 42x the mj1200,hydor nano and a hydor return at 300gph. Wish i had a par meter and some hanna checkers...
Look at the thread on your light. You can use a Lux meter for your light.
And I use API. You just need to get the. Nutrient up a bit.

What's a bit concerning is , your rock looks brand new and thers very little corraline anywhere in The tank. Odd for a two year old tank.
 
Maybe some of the rock on the right is new or just over exposed? I have zero growth on my back wall because I scrub it off religiously so I cant judge by that. At what levels do the API kits start to read NO3/PO4?
 
This is why i started dosing and messing with the light. Coraline bleached too.That large rock is quartz. Is that bad too? Im about to smash smash start over.
 
This is personal preference - the Hanna dkh checker is well worth the money. You can get your dkh in less than a minute.

I don't have any issue reading the Red Sea kit, my problem is the process! Haha
 
Ur sure this tank is two years old? I'm sorry if that sounds mean or I'm coming off arrogant but there is nothing in it. I mean corilime should be somewhere unless u pull equipment and rock out every week and clean it. Wait are u using leds? And why are there two people responding to questions about this tank like they both own it? I'm officially lost now.

So this question is for the persons tank it is what lights do u have? And what is ur full parameters? If it's the person who said 9.1 and 400 disregard last question. I think u have a whole set of problems we have to knock out before we worry about sps here
 
This is personal preference - the Hanna dkh checker is well worth the money. You can get your dkh in less than a minute.

I don't have any issue reading the Red Sea kit, my problem is the process! Haha
It would be ok if i only knew when to take the reading. Do i stop when blue ia gone? or when its kinda pink? or when it stops changing color?My end color is also orange not pink.
 
Look at the video I posted forthe test.

My big question comes to are you using rodi.

I've killed corraline with light , I know what that looks like. I also have a one a two and a three year old tank.
My oldest lasted till it was 5.
 
Ur sure this tank is two years old? I'm sorry if that sounds mean or I'm coming off arrogant but there is nothing in it. I mean corilime should be somewhere unless u pull equipment and rock out every week and clean it. Wait are u using leds? And why are there two people responding to questions about this tank like they both own it? I'm officially lost now.

So this question is for the persons tank it is what lights do u have? And what is ur full parameters? If it's the person who said 9.1 and 400 disregard last question. I think u have a whole set of problems we have to knock out before we worry about sps here
Yes its really that old. Nothing is in it b/c its all dead. Two clowns,strawberry pseudo, 2 porcleain crabs,2 shrimp, 10 frags,many snails and an emerald crab all died in the last two awful yrs. Battled some dinos and cyano. I shoukd have restarted a long time ago.
 
I'm going to ask again what #saltyfilmfolks asked earlier: are you using RO/DI water to make your saltwater?

The tanks coraline algae is very limited as stated and looks like a newly set up tank for being two years old. The light intensity may have very well bleached it to death, but it also looks lacking in the shaded areas as well. Puzzling.

There's so many questions I need to ask!

*RO/DI or tap water? If RO/DI, is the filters maintained properly?
( the reason I ask is specifically about chloramines, they have a tendency to kill fish, coral, inverts and algae)

*What's the SG of the tank? How do you test for SG?

*How are you "topping off"? ATO or manually?

*Are your test kits up to date? Expiration date wise okay?

There's more, a lot more......
 

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