Another day, another *issue*

[Kara]

More accurately, the same issue, again and again.

Once again, Medusa, our coral, looks pitiful.

In anticipation of everyone's questions, I tested the water in the tank. Despite my very best efforts at following directions exactly, the first Nitrates test I performed seemed to indicate level was 40 to 80 ppm. A second test indicates level of 20 ppm. The nitrates test kit is brand new.

pH: between 8.2 & 8.4
Ammonia: 0 ppm
Phosphates: 0 ppm
Nitrites: 0 ppm

 

[Kara]

Picture of Ricky with his eggs purely to 'prove' someone appreciates my efforts!

 

[dwest]

More accurately, the same issue, again and again.

Once again, Medusa, our coral, looks pitiful.

In anticipation of everyone's questions, I tested the water in the tank. Despite my very best efforts at following directions exactly, the first Nitrates test I performed seemed to indicate level was 40 to 80 ppm. A second test indicates level of 20 ppm. The nitrates test kit is brand new.

pH: between 8.2 & 8.4
Ammonia: 0 ppm
Phosphates: 0 ppm
Nitrites: 0 ppm

What kind of coral is that? Some just deflate at times...

 

[Reeferdood]

Ricky is a happy fish, my name is Ricky too..
What type of test kits are you using?

 

[Kara]

@dwest: I don't know! One of my fish store people called Medusa a 'Kenya tree;' someone else told me it was a 'leather' coral. It's one of the answers I hope to get here! I'm so clueless.

What kind of coral is that? Some just deflate at times...

 

[Kara]

@Reeferdood: API test kits.

The original owner was using these test kits; I inherited most of the stuff. Unfortunately, the instructions and some of the items were not included or were lost in move. I stuck with the brand when ordering new stuff as recommended by my fish store peeps and ease of acquisition.

 

[dwest]

Is it all soft with no calcium based structure? That’s what it looks like..
I’m mostly trying to understand if it is photosynthetic or not. Back in the day, I had a colt coral that is similar to that but never deflated and was photosynthetic. I believe there are “Medusa” corals that are nps and are often deflated from what I’ve seen. But I never had one. I’d keep things steady with small regular water changes and see what happens.

 

[Reeferdood]

FWIW, APi kits work but are not very accurate. If you can try to invest in better kits like Salifert or Red Sea. Perhaps this might be a reason for the inconsistent readings.
Most people are keeping a little nitrate and phosphate in their systems nowadays, your corals will love you for that alone..

 

[ilyad]

I can't really make out what coral it is based on picture. However, a kenya tree is a kind of leather, so it's very possible that that is what it is. When did you move the tank? Looking at the pictures, it looks like the red stuff is either diatoms or cyano which makes me wonder if you are having a mini cycle. Often when tanks are moved and sand is disturbed, you have a lot of die-off and various stages of the cycle going on again. If it is not cycling, it can be due to high nutrients in the tank.

I would do a water change and see if it brings down the nitrates. 80 is extremely bad, 20 is tolerable for fish, but bad for coral. That can explain the behavior. High Nitrates is also the last step of a cycle, so its possible why you're getting such high numbers there and the rest of the parameters more regular. However, the parameters you tested for are only really good to tell if the water is good enough to support fish. For coral you must also test Alkalinity, Calcium, and Magnesium. Any one of those 3 being outside the correct range would effect corals.

Try looking for Salifert tests of the above mentioned ones. They test easy, are pretty accurate, not too expensive.

 

[Kara]

@dwest: 'Medusa' a given name as opposed to an accurate, scientific designation! I know it's silly; everyone was named when they moved to my house.

 

[Kara]

@ilyad: I have a ton of pics from before our issues began! I will adjust one to fit upload parameters.

The tank was moved on Saturday, July 21. The seller helped with the move and set up. He used tap water, combined with Instant Ocean, to maintain the tank. For the first two weeks or so, everything was fine. I was testing the water every 2nd or 3rd day. Unfortunately, we experienced a complete power outage at our house; it lasted several hours. My working theory is the power outage, which I was not at all prepared to manage with respect to tank, exacerbated lurking problems. However, if not for power outage, it might have taken a long time before I became aware of several *issues.* I'm trying to look at it as a learning experience.

 

[ilyad]

@Kara ooooh, I bet you the problem is the tap water. Tap water often has very high phosphates, silicates, metals, and other impurities that cause nuisance algae (the red on the rocks) as well as can damage corals. You must always use clean RODI water to mix saltwater and to top of the evaporated water. As to what you can do to repair the damage now, is a few things:
1. consistent water changes using clean RODI to start (and maybe a good 30-50% change for the first one)
2. top off evaporated water with clean RODI water
3. get some high quality carbon and put it into a media bag and a sump (if you have one, otherwise into the filtration chambers of the tank)
4. get yourself a pad of "Poly Filter" cut to size and place into areas where water will flow through it (overflow area or in the sump) --> this will help absorb out all the impurities from the water that the carbon cannot.
5. upgrade the test kits to better ones; personally i recommend the following for each test Alk (Hanna checker [in dKH format] or Salifert), Ca (Salifert, Hanna is too complicated), Mag (Salifert), Nitrate (Salifert), Phosphate (Hanna Checker [Phosphorous ULR format] this one will actually allow you to test the low range that tanks require)

It is possible that the power outage caused die off as well, since water that is not agitated with pumps becomes oxygen deprived. Although if your fish survived, then likely other things did ok as well. To be on the safe side, I would get a battery powered air stone to keep at the house and a set of extra batteries. If power goes out, place the airstone in the tank and turn on the pump. This would do wonders for keeping everything alive. I keep mine right by tank (especially in the summer when we are more prone to rolling blackouts).

I also see that you are from Vegas, what temperate is your tank hitting? Hot tank can be a problem too.

Finally, if you cant have access to the things I listed above at your LFS, I would look for a better one near by, and last case scenario you can always order from BRS or Marine Depot. MD has a warehouse local to you, anything you order from them would be at your place within a day or two.

 

[Kara]

@Reeferdood: LOL. When *issues* first appeared, I was assured phosphates were cause of problems! My internet research supported the hypothesis. I've spent two weeks working very hard to eliminate them from the tank.

Also, as suggested, ordered Salifert text kits for Alkalinity, calcium and magnesium.

 

[Flippers4pups]

@ilyad: I have a ton of pics from before our issues began! I will adjust one to fit upload parameters.

The tank was moved on Saturday, July 21. The seller helped with the move and set up. He used tap water, combined with Instant Ocean, to maintain the tank. For the first two weeks or so, everything was fine. I was testing the water every 2nd or 3rd day. Unfortunately, we experienced a complete power outage at our house; it lasted several hours. My working theory is the power outage, which I was not at all prepared to manage with respect to tank, exacerbated lurking problems. However, if not for power outage, it might have taken a long time before I became aware of several *issues.* I'm trying to look at it as a learning experience.

Unfortunately using tap water is like Russian Roulette with a saltwater tank. It might work, then one day it's killing everything. There are contaminants in tap water that are extremely toxic to Marine life. Local water supplies are full of chlorine and chloramines, heavy metals.

It's highly advisable to use RO/DI water when topping off evaporation and for mixing saltwater.
Investing in a RO/DI unit is highly advisable.

 

[ilyad]

@Reeferdood: LOL. When *issues* first appeared, I was assured phosphates were cause of problems! My internet research supported the hypothesis. I've spent two weeks working very hard to eliminate them from the tank.

Also, as suggested, ordered Salifert text kits for Alkalinity, calcium and magnesium.

API test for phosphate goes from 0 to .25. The target spot for phosphates in a reef tank is .03! Meaning that even API is showing 0 it can be closer to .25 which is almost 10x the suggested amount.

That being said, the things I mentioned in my post (clean water changes, carbon, and Poly filter) will all help. Then down the line if you are able to purchase the more pricey hanna checker, you can test the exact number. If phosphates are in fact high, you can use Rowaphos to remove it. I would say do that now, but I never recommend adding things that can manipulate parameters in the tank unless you can test and monitor them.

 

[Kara]

@ ilyad: My LFS has a RODI system AND they sell pre-mixed salt water for $1 a gallon! Invested in some good quality, plastic jugs and began purchasing their water. Just ordered Salifert test kits for Alkalinity, calcium, and magnesium. Very proud to report the tank temp (76.5 degrees F) consistent within 1 or 2 tenths of a degree. My very first purchase was two digital thermometers with wired probes; one for each end of the tank.

I have a Chemiclean treatment for the algae. I've been reluctant to use it. However, as nitrates seem to have increase exponentially, literally overnight, perhaps I should? Also, can you recommend water change schedule? I'd like to get as much out as possible as tank was set up with 55 gallons of nightmare tap water.

 

[ilyad]

@ ilyad: My LFS has a RODI system AND they sell pre-mixed salt water for $1 a gallon! Invested in some good quality, plastic jugs and began purchasing their water. Just ordered Salifert test kits for Alkalinity, calcium, and magnesium. Very proud to report the tank temp (76.5 degrees F) consistent within 1 or 2 tenths of a degree. My very first purchase was two digital thermometers with wired probes; one for each end of the tank.

I have a Chemiclean treatment for the algae. I've been reluctant to use it. However, as nitrates seem to have increase exponentially, literally overnight, perhaps I should? Also, can you recommend water change schedule? I'd like to get as much out as possible as tank was set up with 55 gallons of nightmare tap water.

I wouldn't resort to Chemiclean yet... most likely your phosphates are due to the bad water previously used. Adding chemiclean can unbalance other things. If your tank is 55 gallons, do a 20 gallon change and then 5-10 gallons a week after that. After a few weeks, stick to 5 gallons a week or 10 every other week. Poly Filter and carbon will help you pull a lot of the other nasties out of the water that may have come in on the tap. Both are fairly inexpensive. Do that for now, and I bet you it'll improve the situation significantly. If after 2-3 months of that, things dont change, maybe then you can consider chemiclean.

Edit: chemiclean also has a potential to deprive water of oxygen (eeeh, it does deprive water of oxygen). I would be very careful with using that as it can kill things if done incorrectly. In my opinion, that should be the last resort approach.

 

[Kara]

@Reeferdood: Hey! Merritt Island, Florida! My husband grew up in Satellite Beach. Miss those Florida beaches.

 

[Reeferdood]

Awesome, I surf down there often!
My best bro lives in Vegas, I go there once a year for the races.

 

[Kara]

@ilyad: Do you think coral will survive?