Best overflow design?!

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Bryan47

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Ok so I am learning as much as I can about sumps as I dive in and convert. I will of course need to know how many holes to drill. I know there are many many different types but the most popular I have heard of are 1. Durso 2.Herbie 3. Bean Animal

I want to hear direct from my fellow members your experience with any or all of these, pros and cons, and which one is the best? Also know as: which one should I choose?

Thank you so much for all the help and support. I hope you all don't hate seeing newbs like be clutter the forum with questions. I've never found a hobby I love so much and I've never met so many giving caring people. Rock on CTARS!
 
I went a little different route and just bought the glass-holes overflow for my last two tanks. They have been very quite and solid production wise. They are also very low profile.
 
I have a durso overflow, which runs nice and quite but i would still stay bean animal because it stops your tank from flooding. If one drain gets clogged it has extra ones to save the day.
 
I have used a durso since day one. It is relatively quiet and I have had no issues with clogging. I did once have to take the plumbing apart because I inadvertently knocked a suction cup probe holder of the glass and of course it got sucked up by the drain. The suction cup ended up getting stuck in the drain plumbing forcing me to take the whole thing apart.
 
I'm checking out the glass holes kits? Looks cool.

Who else has input ? I know you all have a certain setup and an opinion!
 
I have tried all and will not do anything other then the bean animal from now on. Silent and fail safe. I had a durso that a snail climbed in and clogged up and flooded floor.
 
+++999999 I wen with a Bean Animal for m setup and I would never use anything else. Its totally silent, easily adjustable, and CONSISTENTLY RELIABLE.

Takes a bit longer to setup initially but well worth it.

I have tried all and will not do anything other then the bean animal from now on. Silent and fail safe. I had a durso that a snail climbed in and clogged up and flooded floor.
 
Funny you just replied to this because I just heard the ups truck pull up with my bulkheads! Where did you find the best information on how to plumb it?
 
theres a rather lengthy forum on the "other site" a few hundred pages. Bean is still active and responds as well as one of other guys.

basics (please verify this before drilling as my memory is a bit rusty)
this setup should/must be used with a coast to coast overflow, either in-tank or behind.
you'll need 3 holes, all the same size, 1" min, larger tanks should use 1.5"
holes should be drilled aligned > O--O--O so that thy are no closer than 2x the size of the bulkhead hole required.
holes should be min of 2x hole size from any edge
all pipes should extend straight down into sump, no elbows
full siphon requires a ball or needle valve, closer to sump the better (id op for needle valve)
full siphon must extend into water 1" not more than.... this is critical and too deep and it wont prime, to shallow and I will be noisy and not create full siphon
emergency drain, I recommend keeping above high sump level so there is an air gap at all times

any questions send me a PM , glad to try o help.... it took me a long while to feel comfortable enough to drill the holes.
 
theres a rather lengthy forum on the "other site" a few hundred pages. Bean is still active and responds as well as one of other guys.

basics (please verify this before drilling as my memory is a bit rusty)
this setup should/must be used with a coast to coast overflow, either in-tank or behind.
you'll need 3 holes, all the same size, 1" min, larger tanks should use 1.5"
holes should be drilled aligned > O--O--O so that thy are no closer than 2x the size of the bulkhead hole required.
holes should be min of 2x hole size from any edge
all pipes should extend straight down into sump, no elbows
full siphon requires a ball or needle valve, closer to sump the better (id op for needle valve)
full siphon must extend into water 1" not more than.... this is critical and too deep and it wont prime, to shallow and I will be noisy and not create full siphon
emergency drain, I recommend keeping above high sump level so there is an air gap at all times

any questions send me a PM , glad to try o help.... it took me a long while to feel comfortable enough to drill the holes.

Good info there
I answered in regards to this here
https://www.reef2reef.com/forums/connecticut-area-reef-society/180186-basic-sump-help.html

 
Blitzie, I was waiting for you to chime in. Your posting in the other thread was very informative. If I ever set up a new tank, I will be calling on you for advice.
 
theres a rather lengthy forum on the "other site" a few hundred pages. Bean is still active and responds as well as one of other guys.

basics (please verify this before drilling as my memory is a bit rusty)
this setup should/must be used with a coast to coast overflow, either in-tank or behind.
you'll need 3 holes, all the same size, 1" min, larger tanks should use 1.5"
holes should be drilled aligned > O--O--O so that thy are no closer than 2x the size of the bulkhead hole required.
holes should be min of 2x hole size from any edge
all pipes should extend straight down into sump, no elbows
full siphon requires a ball or needle valve, closer to sump the better (id op for needle valve)
full siphon must extend into water 1" not more than.... this is critical and too deep and it wont prime, to shallow and I will be noisy and not create full siphon
emergency drain, I recommend keeping above high sump level so there is an air gap at all times

any questions send me a PM , glad to try o help.... it took me a long while to feel comfortable enough to drill the holes.


Thank you both for your help! I got the bulkheads and overflow box in the mail today so I may ask more questions as I go!!
 
I found my layout for my tank... may help you "get the gist" of things... Keep in mind I would not go larger than 1.5" pipe... even on my size tank.

Slide1.jpg

Slide2.jpg
 
I modified my overflow box slightly from this design in that it was 1" taller. This resulted in the water level being 1.5" from the underside of the eurobracing
 
from left to right the pipes are full siphon (ball or needle valve), open channel siphon (top capped with 1/4 fitting), and emergency

I put unions on the other two pipes so I can remove the sump if needed without tearing out the drain plumbing
 

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