Biota's "Float & Drop" Acclimation Instructions

trevorhiller

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I'm just curious on your thoughts on Biota's fish acclimation instructions. It is very similar to reef cleaners invert acclimation instructions. Obviously these two retailers move a ton of specimens, yet this acclimation procedure seems WAYYYY simpler than what many recommend.

"We pack all of our animals individually for the safety and optimal success of each specimen. When we ship out all animals are provided with fresh shipping water that includes stress reducing and ammonia detoxifying additives to reduce the amount of shipping stress in transit. Due to these additives we suggest a quick acclimation stated below:

*We highly advise against the standard drip acclimation methodology*

1. Open box and inspect animals for immediate health.

2. Turn off lights on aquarium.

3. Float bags in aquarium for 10-15 minutes making sure to avoid clogging overflows or filtration.

4. Open bags and using a net introduce your new aquatic life to your tank. Be sure to avoid high flow areas and for smaller specimens make sure they are not predated on before they find the rockwork.

5. Leave lighting off for an additional 20-30 minutes and then turn lighting on."

[Source: https://shop.thebiotagroup.com/pages/acclimation-guide]

Any ideas what they add to the water prior to shipping?
 
I'm just curious on your thoughts on Biota's fish acclimation instructions. It is very similar to reef cleaners invert acclimation instructions. Obviously these two retailers move a ton of specimens, yet this acclimation procedure seems WAYYYY simpler than what many recommend.

"We pack all of our animals individually for the safety and optimal success of each specimen. When we ship out all animals are provided with fresh shipping water that includes stress reducing and ammonia detoxifying additives to reduce the amount of shipping stress in transit. Due to these additives we suggest a quick acclimation stated below:

*We highly advise against the standard drip acclimation methodology*

1. Open box and inspect animals for immediate health.

2. Turn off lights on aquarium.

3. Float bags in aquarium for 10-15 minutes making sure to avoid clogging overflows or filtration.

4. Open bags and using a net introduce your new aquatic life to your tank. Be sure to avoid high flow areas and for smaller specimens make sure they are not predated on before they find the rockwork.

5. Leave lighting off for an additional 20-30 minutes and then turn lighting on."

[Source: https://shop.thebiotagroup.com/pages/acclimation-guide]

Any ideas what they add to the water prior to shipping?
Given the fact that they suggest immediately into the tank, I'd suggest they're adding nothing but medical oxygen, and simply relying on the CO2 increase due to respiration in transit to convert ammonia to ammonium in transit.

If you opened the bag and drip acclimated the fish the ammonia would become toxic and kill the fish.
 
If you ask 5 people about their acclimation practices you’ll probably get 4 different answers. This seems to apply to various online sellers as well. There are many folks on here that only temperature acclimate and have successfully done so for decades. It’s interesting they don’t even mention salinity.

I’ve read various sources extensively over the years about acclimation and my only conclusion is that everyone has a strong opinion about the right way with some theory to support it. And yet everyone seems equally successful.

Thanks for bringing this to my attention, it’s the first time I’ve seen a seller strongly recommend temperature only. I do tend to put more value on what sellers have to say as they literally put their money where their mouth is, unlike most of the advice you find online. Not sure if I’ll immediately change my practice but it’s strong food for thought.
 
What additives can detoxify ammonia in saltwater? Not Prime nor Amquel. In freshwater you have zeolite but that's it.

When drip acclimating the new water is also diluting the ammonia so I'm not sure it actually increases free ammonia levels much. There's probably a way to calculate this but I don't know it offhand.
 
What additives can detoxify ammonia in saltwater? Not Prime nor Amquel. In freshwater you have zeolite but that's it.

When drip acclimating the new water is also diluting the ammonia so I'm not sure it actually increases free ammonia levels much. There's probably a way to calculate this but I don't know it offhand.
When a fish is in a bag its respiration is adding co2 to the water.
The co2 dissolves into carbonic acid which lowers the pH of the water.

Ammonia becomes less and less toxic as pH decreases, as it actually converts from ammonia to ammonium.

The fish in lower pH and lower temperature water is quite safe.

When you open the bag, the co2 outgasses and the pH rises so the ammonium converts back to toxic ammonia, and becomes dangerous to the fish.

That is why the supplier suggests quickly releasing the fish after temperature acclimation.
 
When a fish is in a bag its respiration is adding co2 to the water.
The co2 dissolves into carbonic acid which lowers the pH of the water.

Ammonia becomes less and less toxic as pH decreases, as it actually converts from ammonia to ammonium.

The fish in lower pH and lower temperature water is quite safe.

When you open the bag, the co2 outgasses and the pH rises so the ammonium converts back to toxic ammonia, and becomes dangerous to the fish.

That is why the supplier suggests quickly releasing the fish after temperature acclimation.

"When we ship out all animals are provided with fresh shipping water that includes stress reducing and ammonia detoxifying additives to reduce the amount of shipping stress in transit. Due to these additives we suggest a quick acclimation stated below:"

It doesn't sound like the additive is CO2.

Also, it would take hours for pH to rise after the bag is opened:

2020-04-09 01_19_16-Sci-Hub _ A new experimental technique for validating exchange models of c...png
 
It doesn't sound like the additive is CO2.

Also, it would take hours for pH to rise after the bag is opened:
I didn't say they added co2, the fish does that.

Earlier I said I believe they simply bag the fish with medical oxygen.
I do not believe they add any magic additives.

FWIW, I've seen fish die very quickly (within minutes), when a bag that has been in transit for days is opened and floated.
 
I didn't say they added co2, the fish does that.

Earlier I said I believe they simply bag the fish with medical oxygen.
I do not believe they add any magic additives.

So what does Biota mean when they say, "When we ship out all animals are provided with fresh shipping water that includes stress reducing and ammonia detoxifying additives to reduce the amount of shipping stress in transit?"
 
So what does Biota mean when they say, "When we ship out all animals are provided with fresh shipping water that includes stress reducing and ammonia detoxifying additives to reduce the amount of shipping stress in transit?"
Perhaps feel good marketing nonsense :)
You would have to ask them.
 
It doesn't sound like the additive is CO2.

Also, it would take hours for pH to rise after the bag is opened:

2020-04-09 01_19_16-Sci-Hub _ A new experimental technique for validating exchange models of c...png
Do you have the source for this? I would love to read it.

I'd love to see someone do an experiment on this on with a pH pen and serial ammonia readings. Wouldn't this be quite easy with the new Hanna Ammonia checkers?

That's how I do it and haven't had an issue... drip acclamation seems overkill for fish.
You're not the first one I have heard state they acclimate for temperature only and haven't lost fish. That's why I have so much curiosity about all of this. With the amount of fish we ship these days, it would be nice to have a acclimation "best practice" nailed down.

Are fish sensitive to rapid changes in salinity, temperature, pH? I honestly don't know. Do people toss fish right in and have them survive? Sure seems like that is the case. I recently lost a fish trying to match temperature, salinity and pH and intentionally racing the "Ammonia toxicity clock" so these opposing acclimation processes pique my interests, especially coming from a large fish breeder.
 
Biota ships at reef salinity levels. I've floated and dropped over 10 Biota fish of varying species and have not lost a single one.
I think that the salinity level is the key.

If you don't have any need to match salinity, the safest thing to do with a fish that's been shipped in a bag is simply acclimate temp with the bag closed and then net the fish and drop in the quarantine tank.

Of course don't drop the LFS water into the tank.
 
I have adopted a hybrid method similar to this. When I have an incoming order of fish I setup 3 pails of FSW with a SG of 1.021, 1.023, and 1.025. I pull a bit of water from the bag with a syringe & needle. The bag will temp acclimate and drop into whichever SG it matches. I had an order from Dr Reef recently and 6 bags went into across all 3 pails and one into my DT. Drip acclimate from there to 1.026.
 
I'm just curious on your thoughts on Biota's fish acclimation instructions. It is very similar to reef cleaners invert acclimation instructions. Obviously these two retailers move a ton of specimens, yet this acclimation procedure seems WAYYYY simpler than what many recommend.

"We pack all of our animals individually for the safety and optimal success of each specimen. When we ship out all animals are provided with fresh shipping water that includes stress reducing and ammonia detoxifying additives to reduce the amount of shipping stress in transit. Due to these additives we suggest a quick acclimation stated below:

*We highly advise against the standard drip acclimation methodology*

1. Open box and inspect animals for immediate health.

2. Turn off lights on aquarium.

3. Float bags in aquarium for 10-15 minutes making sure to avoid clogging overflows or filtration.

4. Open bags and using a net introduce your new aquatic life to your tank. Be sure to avoid high flow areas and for smaller specimens make sure they are not predated on before they find the rockwork.

5. Leave lighting off for an additional 20-30 minutes and then turn lighting on."

[Source: https://shop.thebiotagroup.com/pages/acclimation-guide]

Any ideas what they add to the water prior to shipping?
Plop and Drop. That what I do....
 
I have adopted a hybrid method similar to this. When I have an incoming order of fish I setup 3 pails of FSW with a SG of 1.021, 1.023, and 1.025. I pull a bit of water from the bag with a syringe & needle. The bag will temp acclimate and drop into whichever SG it matches. I had an order from Dr Reef recently and 6 bags went into across all 3 pails and one into my DT. Drip acclimate from there to 1.026.
I thought about doing this for my next shipment. I’ve had really bad luck and lost two tominis and a watchman goby from Dr. Reef. (Not really his fault or mine, but now I’m super gun shy about any hiccoughs during acclimation because I can’t ask him to replace anymore fish-this will be the third Tomini he’s sending me.)

My only problem would be needing multiple heaters…. How do you control the temp in the buckets? Or you just pull tank water and dilute with RODI hoping it’s close enough to tank water?

I have one heater for acclimation, but having multiple buckets ready at specific temps and salinity is challenging.
 
@Biota_Marine feel like chiming in since a bunch of folks here are doing a lot of speculating? Its always funny to me that with all the resources and sponsors we have here at R2R its rare that people don't just reach out to the vendor for an explanation.
 

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