BRS RO/DI System Problems

samba_dad · May 31, 2016

I am having a problem with my BRS RO/DI system. I have the 75gpd universal+ version with 1 micron sediment filter, 2x 1 micron carbon (chloramine) filters, RO membrane, and 2x DI resin containers. About a month ago, I replaced every cartridge, DI resin and the RO membrane with the recommended versions purchased from BRS. I was getting high TDS readings out of the system with new resin, cartridge and membrane, but figured I just needed to flush the system. No luck. It has been about a month and I still cannot get anything less than 15 TDS out of the system - even though I consistently had 0 TDS for over a year.

I did notice my pressure was down around 25psi. So, I tried replacing all of the 1/4" tubing going to the RO/DI unit from my outside faucet. Again, no luck.

Has anyone ever had a similar problem with the BRS RO/DI systems? If so, how did you fix it? Should low pressure cause high TDS or just low production rates? I have sent a couple of emails to BRS now, but I am not getting a response.

AZDesertRat · May 31, 2016

What is your tap TDS, RO only TDS and TDS after each of the two DI stages? What is your water pressure, water temperature and exact measured waste ratio? Are you using hard or softened water?
When you changed the filters did you flush each stage individually before adding the next?
How do you make water , nice long filter runs of 5+ gallons or short spurts with a float valve?

Why did you replace everything in the first place? We're you already experiencing problems? How old was the original system/filters/membrane?

How is the system hooked up? If a faucet adapter do you use only cold water and if there is a screen is it clean? If a needle valve have you checked to see it is pierced completely and the needle is retracted all the way? Do you have a hose bib pressure gauge to check and confirm your incoming pressure? The absolute minimum pressure to make RO water is about 40 psi and it is not real efficient until around 50 psi and gets much better the higher the pressure is.

andys · May 31, 2016

Get a pump... you have very low pressure.....

AZDesertRat · May 31, 2016

Until you know what your incoming pressure really is don't buy a pump or anything other than a hosebib pressure gauge for around $8. Don't throw money around until you know where the problem lies.

samba_dad · May 31, 2016

AZDesertRat said:
What is your tap TDS, RO only TDS and TDS after each of the two DI stages? What is your water pressure, water temperature and exact measured waste ratio? Are you using hard or softened water?
When you changed the filters did you flush each stage individually before adding the next?
How do you make water , nice long filter runs of 5+ gallons or short spurts with a float valve?

Why did you replace everything in the first place? We're you already experiencing problems? How old was the original system/filters/membrane?

How is the system hooked up? If a faucet adapter do you use only cold water and if there is a screen is it clean? If a needle valve have you checked to see it is pierced completely and the needle is retracted all the way? Do you have a hose bib pressure gauge to check and confirm your incoming pressure? The absolute minimum pressure to make RO water is about 40 psi and it is not real efficient until around 50 psi and gets much better the higher the pressure is.

Tap TDS: ~150
RO TDS: ~50
DI TDS: 15
Water Pressure at RO/DI: 25-30psi
No water conditioner: hard water

Did not flush each stage individually. Replaced everything at once and tried to flush the whole system.

Typically make 10+ gals at a time.

I replaced my cartridges because I was starting to read 1-2 TDS at output.

I am pretty regular with maintenance and replace my cartridges every 6 months or when I start reading >0 TDS. I think the last set of cartridges was replaced about 4 months ago. When I did not get back to zero TDS, I contacted BRS who told me I need to replace the RO membrane - which I did.

I run a 1/4" OD line from my outside faucet into the garage and back out to an outside drain. I was using the white/clear 1/4" and thought maybe algae had grown into the line. So, I switched to black 1/4" this weekend. I don't have a screen on my faucet adapter.

My water pressure does appear to be low. In fact, much lower than it has been. I have not checked my water pressure at the faucet in the last year, but it has been around 60psi.

I have not measured waste ratio, but I will and post my results.

I just can't figure out what is different than a couple of months ago.

andys · May 31, 2016

I get twice as much RO water and very low waste water with a pump. my water pressure here was 50Lb there was more waste water than produced water. went to a pump and 2 R/O membranes and now i get very low waste water and tripled my produced water

samba_dad · Jun 1, 2016

andys said:
I get twice as much RO water and very low waste water with a pump. my water pressure here was 50Lb there was more waste water than produced water. went to a pump and 2 R/O membranes and now i get very low waste water and tripled my produced water

Thanks for the response. Which booster pump did you purchase?

AZDesertRat · Jun 1, 2016

Even with a booster pump, which is a great investment if you know you have low incoming pressure, you need to keep the waste ratio set for your water conditions. Just adding a booster does not mean you can reduce the waste.

I would get a hose bib gauge and check your outside pressure before doing anything else. Do you know if your home has a pressure regulator on the incoming line? Many newer homes do to meet local plumbing codes and it is very common for them to go bad or to need adjusting of the diaphragm every so often. A quick turn with a crescent wrench or screwdriver may be all it takes. If your pressure is in fact 25 psi and you do not have a regulator I would contact your water provider to see if thye have issues in the area. 25 psi probably does not meet fire protection standards and they may have some closed valves in the water distribution system that need chasing down. I was always glad when customers alerted me to pressure or quality conditions, it was almost always valves closed for one reason or another and not all opened back up once the leak or whatever was repaired. Sometimes it is easy to forget which valves were operated, especially if more than one crew worked on the project.

If you decide to buy a booster, stick with the standard of the Industry, the Aquatec 8800 series. Still built in the US and bulletproof.

samba_dad · Jun 1, 2016

Thanks @AZDesertRat!

I went out to Home Depot and purchased a pressure gauge for my outside faucet. I am reading 60+ psi. I am only getting about 25psi at my RO/DI gauge. So, it would have to be a clogged line between the faucet and the pressure gauge, right? I don't think I should drop 40 psi along my 1/4" line to my RO/DI.

samba_dad · Jun 1, 2016

By the way, BRS customer support did contact me yesterday and asked me to call them to walk through some diagnostic steps.

Buckeye Hydro · Jun 1, 2016

Likewise - if you want help troubleshooting it give us a call when you are in front of the system.

Russ

AZDesertRat · Jun 2, 2016

Is that the same faucet the RO is hooked to?
How do you have the RO hooked up, is it a garden hose wye or? How long is the tubing between the faucet and the RO?

For giggles, hook the gauge up to the faucet then go inside and open up a faucet or flush the toilet and see if the pressure stays steady. All ao make sure you don't have a pressure regulator somewhere that may be letting you see 60 psi static but drops with water flowing somewhere.

You could also temporarily move the RO to the faucet eliminating the long line to see if the problem goes away which would pinpoint the line.

samba_dad · Jun 3, 2016

Yes - the RO/DI is hooked up to where I had the water gauge connected.

I have a tee from the outside faucet (where I connected the water gauge) and connect the RO/DI through a faucet to 1/4" OD adapter. The run is ~10 ft. I run 1/4"OD tubing to my RO/DI unit from the faucet and then run the drain line back using another 1/4" OD tubing. Previously, I was using a semi-clear 1/4" OD tubing. I am thinking over time algae may have built up and clogged the line. I am replacing it with new solid black 1/4" tubing to see if that fixes my problem. Unfortunately, the faucet to 1/4" adapter would not release the old 1/4". So, I have ordered another adapter and I hope it arrives today. Once I get it hooked up, I will let you know what happens.

By the way, I hooked up the water gauge and came inside and turned on all faucets and a shower and read 40 psi outside at the faucet. When I only had one faucet on I was reading 55 psi. That's pretty typical, right? I don't think my problem is with Huntsville Utilities. Would you agree?

Thanks for all the help @AZDesertRat.

AZDesertRat · Jun 3, 2016

Sounds like it could be the tubing as you say. Hope it works out for you.

BoneXriffic · Jun 3, 2016

If the ro is connected directly to that bib, and your getting 60psi which is great pressure at that point in the system....its hoses or connectors for sure

samba_dad · Jun 3, 2016

Okay - my adapter came in this afternoon and I hooked up the new tubing. Here is the pressure reading at the RO membrane...44 psi. That's about 20 psi improvement. I'm making water all night and will test TDS levels in the morning.

andys · Jun 4, 2016

I would still get a pump

jaws789832 · Jun 4, 2016

this might sound stupid but I have done it with that system. Did you put your DI cartriges in right. I put mine in upside down once and had the same problem with 15 tds coming out. I took it apart and realized my mistake and it worked perfect when I put it in right

samba_dad · Jun 12, 2016

jaws789832 said:
this might sound stupid but I have done it with that system. Did you put your DI cartriges in right. I put mine in upside down once and had the same problem with 15 tds coming out. I took it apart and realized my mistake and it worked perfect when I put it in right

Thanks so much - I definitely had them in upside down.

I replaced the DI resin and finally got back to zero TDS.

Thanks much for all the help @jaws789832 and @AZDesertRat.