Can I save it?

NervousReefer

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My first sps (montipora digitata) and I don’t think it’s gonna make it. I’ve had it about a week and a half, it was fine the first few days. Had it low in the tank on a rack to acclimate to my lights (AI Prime 16 HD), I’m running the WWC light schedule. Polyps were extended,everything looked great now it looks like this. Moved him to mid level to get more light still no polyps so I put


3352B86C-AAB6-4165-86AB-3BCA3050B61F.jpeg


Parameters
Alk 8.6
Cal 440
Mag 1290
Nitrate 5 ppm



FF6B9993-FB4F-4A8B-A4F4-9A6958FAB2B3.jpeg


One of my snails must have hit him and broke the right branch off. Found it the sand this morning.
 
He's dead Jim.gif


I'm afraid it is already dead. No polyps, and it appears no tissue either...
 
It's gone.

My thoughts:

- The listed parameters look fine. I would raise Mg a little to 1350.

- What are the daily parameter swings? - Temp and Salinity are what comes to mind.

- What are the PAR readings for the locations chosen in the tank. Without those numbers, it is a guessing game. See about renting one once to dial lights in properly.

- How old is the tank? If "new" then I would wait a little longer until there is a good maintenance routine established (including achieving reduce daily parameter swings). If "seasoned" then still shoot for solid parameter stability (minor daily swings).

- Be sure to verify accurate testing results and proper calibration of applicable testing equipment as needed.

Otherwise there could quite a few possible sources of the coral's demise, but these are some things for consideration.
 
It's gone.

My thoughts:

- The listed parameters look fine. I would raise Mg a little to 1350.

- What are the daily parameter swings? - Temp and Salinity are what comes to mind.

- What are the PAR readings for the locations chosen in the tank. Without those numbers, it is a guessing game. See about renting one once to dial lights in properly.

- How old is the tank? If "new" then I would wait a little longer until there is a good maintenance routine established (including achieving reduce daily parameter swings). If "seasoned" then still shoot for solid parameter stability (minor daily swings).

- Be sure to verify accurate testing results and proper calibration of applicable testing equipment as needed.

Otherwise there could quite a few possible sources of the coral's demise, but these are some things for consideration.
Parameters are steady, no big swings testing with the trident. Tank is fairly new just shy of a year up and running. I tested par with my seneye, numbers are between 100-170 on sand, top of scape around 240. I don’t think my tank was ready for sps
 
Phosphate as said before are way too high, be careful bringing it down...sps corals hate pho’s swings as much as alk swings
Appreciate all the help. I’m gonna bring it down slowly over a few days. This was my first and only sps, I’ll start checking my po4 more often now.
 
Edit. I’d go slower than that. I suppose it’s less of a concern if you don’t have any SPS, though.

I’d definitely test again a few times (over the course of a week or two) after you reach your desired phosphate range to make sure your rock and sand aren’t continuing to leach phosphate

Creating a yo-yo like effect is bad.
 
The 2 pics look like different corals (but I know they are not). Based on the second photo, if that's the most representative of the two, I wouldn't give up on it. Maybe snip the tip on the right while trying to solve the problem. I agree that phosphate is way too high. Big question mark next to lighting.
 
The 2 pics look like different corals (but I know they are not). Based on the second photo, if that's the most representative of the two, I wouldn't give up on it. Maybe snip the tip on the right while trying to solve the problem. I agree that phosphate is way too high. Big question mark next to lighting.
My assumption was that the 2nd pic is when they got it, and the first is current...
 
The 2 pics look like different corals (but I know they are not). Based on the second photo, if that's the most representative of the two, I wouldn't give up on it. Maybe snip the tip on the right while trying to solve the problem. I agree that phosphate is way too high. Big question mark next to lighting.
It is a before and now photo. I still see slight coloring on it and I have moved it to the bottom of the tank, I’m not gonna give up just yet.
 
Edit. I’d go slower than that. I suppose it’s less of a concern if you don’t have any SPS, though.

I’d definitely test again a few times (over the course of a week or two) after you reach your desired phosphate range to make sure your rock and sand aren’t continuing to leach phosphate

Creating a yo-yo like effect is bad.
This is new information, so rock and sand can leach phosphate? I used Marco rock and Carib sea Fiji pink.
 
This is new information, so rock and sand can leach phosphate? I used Marco rock and Carib sea Fiji pink.
Yep. My recommendation is to figure out what your desired phosphate range is. Then get the tank within that range slowly. At that point, continue testing for a week or two (or three) to make sure your rock isn’t leaching phosphate back out. One concern is that you seemingly reach your desired phosphate target range then go to your LFS and grab a couple frags, not realizing that your rock then leaches out phosphate, which in turn encourages you to intervene (repeatedly), leading to the yo-yo like effect I mentioned earlier.

@jda can provide more information regarding his thoughts on how your water/tank may try to reach an equilibrium in the context of phosphate leaching. Hopefully he will chime in.
 
@Chaswood79 - Are you seriously not chiming in on a phosphate-related thread?

If the OP isn’t rocking .000001 phosphate, he/she isn’t worthy of your input apparently. I have New Year’s resolution recommendations for you, bud.
 

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