It’s not a phosphate issue
It’s a Vibrant issue
Can I save it?
- Thread starter NervousReefer
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It’s a Vibrant issue
You need to dig deeper
Is this what I think it is??
I’ve been noticing this red algae for awhile in my tank so I cracked open of vibrant to see if that would help get rid of it. It has helped a little but I’m noticing new patches popping up in the sand and the diatoms that once a memory are back too. So I guess my question is is this cyano? I...
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Definitely stop using Vibrant, if you do...
I would get the phosphate down too. It doesn't have to be super low, but .1 is would be better. Read up on how aragonite (sand and rock) bind bind phosphate to equilibrium with the water. If your water level is .7, then you have a LOT of phosphate bound up. Get a hannah checker, or else you will be shooting blind. If you have corals or other inverts, then you have to go SLOW when lowering it... like over several months. That stuff, Lanthanum Chloride, is very powerful and can strip the water of all phosphate very quickly, which is bad for coral and inverts, and then it will go up again once the rock/sand releases, which is bad too. You want to add it very slowly so that the aragonite release matches the water strip and that the decline is linear and slow.
It is not a bad thing that rock and sand bind phosphate. It does not leech like in a bad way, it binds and unbinds - raise your water level of phosphate and it will bind more... lower it and it will unbind. If the aragonite structure is growing (coral is growing), then the phosphate can be permanently bound unless dissolved with super low pH, but if dead, then it can unbind. The only negative here is that people too often want to blame something that they did not know about, but it is chemistry 101. In tanks with lower concentrations, the binding can act as a buffer to make sure that you truly never get to zero - natures solution for the low-end. It has been bad lately with the emergency of dry/dead rock which can have a LOT of bound terrestrial phosphate when you buy it... it is something that the BRS videos and sellers don't tell you about, but it can take a lot of time, patience and money to get the rock right and most folks would have been better off spending money on real live rock once they get done. Most sand collected near an ocean is mostly phosphate free, like ocean live rock- the sand was likely very much low on phosphate when you put it in, but it likely has absorbed plenty since it has been in your water.
If you read up on this, then you will be way ahead of the game.
I would get the phosphate down too. It doesn't have to be super low, but .1 is would be better. Read up on how aragonite (sand and rock) bind bind phosphate to equilibrium with the water. If your water level is .7, then you have a LOT of phosphate bound up. Get a hannah checker, or else you will be shooting blind. If you have corals or other inverts, then you have to go SLOW when lowering it... like over several months. That stuff, Lanthanum Chloride, is very powerful and can strip the water of all phosphate very quickly, which is bad for coral and inverts, and then it will go up again once the rock/sand releases, which is bad too. You want to add it very slowly so that the aragonite release matches the water strip and that the decline is linear and slow.
It is not a bad thing that rock and sand bind phosphate. It does not leech like in a bad way, it binds and unbinds - raise your water level of phosphate and it will bind more... lower it and it will unbind. If the aragonite structure is growing (coral is growing), then the phosphate can be permanently bound unless dissolved with super low pH, but if dead, then it can unbind. The only negative here is that people too often want to blame something that they did not know about, but it is chemistry 101. In tanks with lower concentrations, the binding can act as a buffer to make sure that you truly never get to zero - natures solution for the low-end. It has been bad lately with the emergency of dry/dead rock which can have a LOT of bound terrestrial phosphate when you buy it... it is something that the BRS videos and sellers don't tell you about, but it can take a lot of time, patience and money to get the rock right and most folks would have been better off spending money on real live rock once they get done. Most sand collected near an ocean is mostly phosphate free, like ocean live rock- the sand was likely very much low on phosphate when you put it in, but it likely has absorbed plenty since it has been in your water.
If you read up on this, then you will be way ahead of the game.
Definitely something to do with your water quality, sometimes its something we don't test for.
Epic Aquaculture
The artist formerly known as SawCJack00
Well played
It’s no Lonesome Dove but it’s pretty good so far. You heard wrong about the Oregon tort but I have several large frags of it. You need one?
I have a small Oregon tort that has awesome color and just sprouted a (very) tiny nub. The entire piece is an inch, unfortunately. I’m really interested in Tony’s Cookie Monster because I’ve read it’s even bluer but haven’t seen it first hand.
If things continue going my way with the latest iteration of my tank, I’m definitely going to reach out for a few pieces.
I forgot to mention that even as you remove residual/backend P levels, you need to continue to feed your tank well. Do not cut down the import, but up the export. The other corals need the available building blocks to live and grow. In your mind, you have to separate the available N and P from the residual levels, which is hard for most, but super important to be successful.
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NervousReefer
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I don’t use that anymore
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NervousReefer
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My rock is far from white
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NervousReefer
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I previously used vibrant and was told to stop and I did. I’m still learning about this hobby which is why I come here for help. Sorry for not knowing as much as most of you, I’m still learning. Thanks for your help
It’s still in your system if you used it 3 weeks ago
