EUPHYLLIA HELP?? PLEASE

Riqaq · Mar 25, 2020

ORCA1 said:
the resin that is...replacement time

It depends on what contaminants are in your water and of course how much of each there is. If you are not sure, then the easiest option is to use a clear holder with a colour changing resin. Typical "example" replacement times, quoted by suppliers, are 6 months to a year to replace, but you need to be sure of when to change it which you can do when your output TDS starts going up (in accordance with the resin manufacturers instructions) or when the colour changes if using a colour changing resin.

If your water is proving to be terrible and you look like you are changing too many resin canisters, then I saw on you tube that BRS do a 3 cartridge usit that contains 3 different types of resin (allowing you to only replace the resin type that is being consumed and as BRS would say, saving money in the process.

I have no experience of individual resins, but I expect someone here has.

ORCA1 · Mar 28, 2020

I received my TDS and the reading came in at 20 ppm....which I assume is to high and we want 0 or close to 0. So I will get the DI to knock it down. Hopefully that will be the cause of my Euphyllia troubles. I did notice that BRS did make a single , double and that triple one that has the 3 resins separate that like RIQAQ said is said to last longer. They are currently on back order for that unit. I suppose all would be equally OK and it would just be a function of frequency of changes? Marine Depot also has a unit with screw in cartridges that have easily removal and replacement without manipulating the resins as much. Not sure if anyone having experiences with it? Thanks

Riqaq · Mar 29, 2020

You are correct on the TDS value, way too high. The DI in my RODI is single cartridge and I would get a nice simple one, quickly, to start with. Whether, or not, to get a multi-chamber resin type is really either a cost-benefit analysis (or you have enough disposable cash to say "I like it, so I'll have it").

My main concern for you now is how do you get the rest of the undesirable material from the tank. Obviously, you won't know how big the problems are until your Aquarium Lab results come back, but when they do post them and we can see how to improve the situation. I can imaging how painful large water changes will be with an 800 litre tank.

Acskippy · Mar 29, 2020

Riqaq said:
You are correct on the TDS value, way too high. The DI in my RODI is single cartridge and I would get a nice simple one, quickly, to start with. Whether, or not, to get a multi-chamber resin type is really either a cost-benefit analysis (or you have enough disposable cash to say "I like it, so I'll have it").

My main concern for you now is how do you get the rest of the undesirable material from the tank. Obviously, you won't know how big the problems are until your Aquarium Lab results come back, but when they do post them and we can see how to improve the situation. I can imaging how painful large water changes will be with an 800 litre tank.

ORCA1 said:
I received my TDS and the reading came in at 20 ppm....which I assume is to high and we want 0 or close to 0. So I will get the DI to knock it down. Hopefully that will be the cause of my Euphyllia troubles. I did notice that BRS did make a single , double and that triple one that has the 3 resins separate that like RIQAQ said is said to last longer. They are currently on back order for that unit. I suppose all would be equally OK and it would just be a function of frequency of changes? Marine Depot also has a unit with screw in cartridges that have easily removal and replacement without manipulating the resins as much. Not sure if anyone having experiences with it? Thanks

Acskippy · Mar 29, 2020

From my experience/failures.... have to start with quality RO/DI Water to mix your saltwater and to top off. Readings MUST BE AT 0 leaving your RODI unit. I am sure others will say it can be close but to diagnose a specific issue you have to stop “tinkering” which im sure most of us can agree thats its nearly impossible to stop lol! But honestly, you will save yourself alot of time money and tears by approaching your issue starting from the source (rodi). BRS’s units are inexpensive and extremely easy to setup and use. I use drop in cartridges for all chambers, which are very quick and easy to change. Also do yourself a favor and purchase a unit that has an inline TDS meter. It will give you great information when it comes down to when to change your media. Also the cartridges change color when they become depleted... as others have said before, this will depend on the TDS levels of the water coming into your house. ALSO MAKE SURE TO CHECK INCOMING PRESSURE AND ADD A BOOSTER PUMP IF NECESSARY!!! I ran my first unit, stupidly and ignored pressure requirements. Keeping within the recommended pressure is critical to ensuring quality, efficency and longevity of your RODI. Just my 2 cents and informing you from my mistakes.... DONT SKIMP ON RODI!!!!! Then once thats cleared up, you can move on up the line knowing that you poured the foundation before you built the roof! Good luck, i also have had troubles with euphys im the past and may be able to steer you in the right direction... one step at a time well all hopefully get you through this.... cuz the big boys on here realllllly know their stuff!!

SyracuseMatt · Mar 29, 2020

ORCA1 said:
I received my TDS and the reading came in at 20 ppm....which I assume is to high and we want 0 or close to 0. So I will get the DI to knock it down. Hopefully that will be the cause of my Euphyllia troubles. I did notice that BRS did make a single , double and that triple one that has the 3 resins separate that like RIQAQ said is said to last longer. They are currently on back order for that unit. I suppose all would be equally OK and it would just be a function of frequency of changes? Marine Depot also has a unit with screw in cartridges that have easily removal and replacement without manipulating the resins as much. Not sure if anyone having experiences with it? Thanks

If you’re starting with 20 ppm, you might consume DI resin pretty quickly. My water before DI, after RO, is typically 1-3 ppm. I don’t track how often I change DI but it might be once every 2-3 months or so.

Matt

ORCA1 · Mar 30, 2020

SyracuseMatt said:
If you’re starting with 20 ppm, you might consume DI resin pretty quickly. My water before DI, after RO, is typically 1-3 ppm. I don’t track how often I change DI but it might be once every 2-3 months or so.

Matt

Thanks Matt

ORCA1 · Mar 30, 2020

Acskippy said:
From my experience/failures.... have to start with quality RO/DI Water to mix your saltwater and to top off. Readings MUST BE AT 0 leaving your RODI unit. I am sure others will say it can be close but to diagnose a specific issue you have to stop “tinkering” which im sure most of us can agree thats its nearly impossible to stop lol! But honestly, you will save yourself alot of time money and tears by approaching your issue starting from the source (rodi). BRS’s units are inexpensive and extremely easy to setup and use. I use drop in cartridges for all chambers, which are very quick and easy to change. Also do yourself a favor and purchase a unit that has an inline TDS meter. It will give you great information when it comes down to when to change your media. Also the cartridges change color when they become depleted... as others have said before, this will depend on the TDS levels of the water coming into your house. ALSO MAKE SURE TO CHECK INCOMING PRESSURE AND ADD A BOOSTER PUMP IF NECESSARY!!! I ran my first unit, stupidly and ignored pressure requirements. Keeping within the recommended pressure is critical to ensuring quality, efficency and longevity of your RODI. Just my 2 cents and informing you from my mistakes.... DONT SKIMP ON RODI!!!!! Then once thats cleared up, you can move on up the line knowing that you poured the foundation before you built the roof! Good luck, i also have had troubles with euphys im the past and may be able to steer you in the right direction... one step at a time well all hopefully get you through this.... cuz the big boys on here realllllly know their stuff!!