Extremely High DKH

The anemone died with the nitrateas around .25 and .50 ppm all 3 fish are alive and still have color in my coral as well.

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That ammonia test seems wayyy wrong. At such a high ammonia concentration your fish would've melted or something, and whatever corals in the tank would be bleach white. I would get your params tested by a LFS, cuz something is definitely wri=ong with either the reagents or the testing procedure.
 
api kit is useless, strips are worse. I just bought better test kits as my dKh was reading 5 with API drop chit... with better kit it was 11.5. how old is your tank? sounds like its still in cycle and shouldnt have any livestock. I let any new tank i start even with starter bacteria to run 1 month with nothing lights off. you cant run a SW tank in a hurry. Hydrometers are always off. I bet your salt level is wrong. that salt mix has to mix with a pump/heater for at least 2 hours b4 you check it..
 
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api kit is useless, strips are worse. I just bought better test kits as my dKh was reading 5 with API drop chit... with better kit it was 11.5. how old is your tank? sounds like its still in cycle and shouldnt have any livestock
My aquarium has been up and running for almost a year now. I do have coraline algae growing in my tank as well my previous system had many problems but never had coraline so I felt like I was doing something write for once. But I left to take my brother home and was gone for a week and a half and with my wife doing what she could while being sick things just took a turn for the worse. I did notice I have unusual little white worms floating around in my water as well... From research that I have come up with they seem to be young bristle worms or of the same family as the bristle worm. I can not get a photo because they do not show up on the photos that I take with my phone. The photo I am sharing is similar to what they look like; however that is not my tank.

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how did the DKH drop from 20 to 12, did you change more than 50% of the water?
I was previously just rinsing out the test tubes and letting them air dry. I recently just started using the feeding tweezers I have to use a piece of paper towel to clean the test tubes out. I tested the theory of a "dirty" tube vs a tube that I cleaned via the paper towel method and have seen much different results in both my Saltwater Mixed RODI water and the aquarium water. I tested the Ammonia and Nitrate levels with changes in test results from the new method of cleaning the test tubes but the tested parameters that I have shared with the community involving the higher levels of Ammonia and Nitrate are from the new method of cleaning the tubes. I am also thinking that the worms in the water column may have a very negative effect on my tests but am still looking for answers online and the assistance from any aquarium hobbyist that can help.
 
I can't really get a consistent reading with API. My DKH crept up to 14.5, I only foud out when I got a better tester. It took me 6 water changes to bring it down to 10, cause I don't want to pull it down to fast.
 
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I am completely lost here with what you are doing/saying/explaining...and I dont think I'm the only one. NOTHING makes sense here except human errors. you are just doing it wrong. please try explaining again as your statements are not consistent.
 
I found that my previous method of cleaning out my test tubes made my test results unreliable. API tests may still be wrong but I believe I found the largest factor in my extreme test results in the DKH to be because of the cleaning process of the test tubes. The ammonia and nitrate tests though however are after having cleaned the test tubes thoroughly are extremely high and I may agree that API's test kit is to blame for this but there could also be other factors that are in the water. So the question now is can the worms in the water if they wind up in my test tubes and I don't notice them. Can they cause the extremely high test results regardless as to what test kit I use?

I apologize if I caused confusion for anyone here. I will take the time to calm down and think about what I am going to say/ask.
 
if you have a local fish store (not a general pet store) have them test your tank water and your new salt water mix (take a half cup sample of each). TOSS the api strips and reef kit drip chit. there is a good reason ONE perameter salifert test kit is same price as the entire API test set. if the local fish store uses the API to test your samples, find a new local fish store.
 
Best piece of advice anyone in this thread can give you........

Throw out the junk API kits and get something better(hanna, salifert, red sea, lamotte, nyos). Any test kit is better then API. Any test kit that can be used in FW as well as SW just isn't very good as there are many factors that could skew the test in SW that are not present in FW, yet the test kit can be used for both?

API should only be used for FW, and even then their subjective at best.
 
I found that my previous method of cleaning out my test tubes made my test results unreliable. API tests may still be wrong but I believe I found the largest factor in my extreme test results in the DKH to be because of the cleaning process of the test tubes. The ammonia and nitrate tests though however are after having cleaned the test tubes thoroughly are extremely high and I may agree that API's test kit is to blame for this but there could also be other factors that are in the water. So the question now is can the worms in the water if they wind up in my test tubes and I don't notice them. Can they cause the extremely high test results regardless as to what test kit I use?

I apologize if I caused confusion for anyone here. I will take the time to calm down and think about what I am going to say/ask.
I am following you. I'll summarize for the group:
You have high DKH
You have high Nitrates
You have high Ammonia
Your nem RIP
You have baby bristle worms
You use API kits and there is some concern about cleaning and skewing of the results.

My take is that the bristle worms are not getting in your water and skewing the results.
There is a point where we need to stop trying to treat ourselves and seek professional help --- you have reached that place. If you have a LFS - go. Then update us on the results.
If you do not have a LFS, there are services that you can mail a water sample off to.
Either way, you either have operator error or faulty tests or both.

At this point, you are looking for a needle in a haystack... off to the LFS you go... follow the yellow brick road, the wizard will have the answers.
 
With the API liquid ammonia test:
1. Test your RO and fresh mixed salt water. High ammonia in both of those would point me towards a testing error or possible issue. If I remember correctly one of the API ammonia bottles needs a solid shaking as well, but I don’t remember which direction the test will be off in if that is skipped.
2. Do you use the plastic caps with the API test, or just hold your finger over the vial? I do the latter, but have a friend who will get a false positive test if he doesn’t use the caps. No idea what is on his hands.
3. I agree that it’s time to get a full test panel at a local store.
 
Nem died and you still need to clear the water regardless of test kits.

Watch your animals....and don't worry about the worms.

Are your fish at the top gasping for air? If not then there is not enough free floating ammonia in your water to kill your fish. As others stated API is terrible and don't rely on the readings.

Do you have carbon you can run to help pull out some of the nasties the nem released?

With a year old tank a good size water change would be good but definitely source your water from a LFS so you know it's parameters are on.

Sounds like your bacteria is working to clear the bad waste. The carbon will help with that.

Until your fish are freaking out you don't need to freak out ;)
 
Nem died and you still need to clear the water regardless of test kits.

Watch your animals....and don't worry about the worms.

Are your fish at the top gasping for air? If not then there is not enough free floating ammonia in your water to kill your fish. As others stated API is terrible and don't rely on the readings.

Do you have carbon you can run to help pull out some of the nasties the nem released?

With a year old tank a good size water change would be good but definitely source your water from a LFS so you know it's parameters are on.

Sounds like your bacteria is working to clear the bad waste. The carbon will help with that.

Until your fish are freaking out you don't need to freak out ;)
Thank you Merkey. I will be going to my LFS to acquire more water along with having them test my parameters for me. The fish are not gasping for air at the top of the tank and I am running carbon.
 
The anemone died with the nitrateas around .25 and .50 ppm all 3 fish are alive and still have color in my coral as well.
Nitrates did not kill your anemone. Nitrates are a food source for anemones. If your ammonia is at what your test kit shows that would kill it, but also your fish as well. As I said before
API ammonia test kits are notorious for being In accurate.
Get some decent test kits. Otherwise your wasting your time trying to figure out what is going on with bad information.
 
It might be interesting to have you bring your kits to the LFS and test a cup of water from their display, with their permission of course. Just another datapoint to the validity or error of your tests.
 
Nothing your saying matches with you test results! All this is just guessing without decent test kits! Buy a Salifert ammonia and Alkalinity test kit today the rest can wait. Nitrate at 120 is not going to kill fish or anemones, so stop worrying about it for now. Ammonia and to a lesser extent nitrite are toxic to fish corals and anemones. Alkalinity levels will affect corals much more than fish.
 
It might be interesting to have you bring your kits to the LFS and test a cup of water from their display, with their permission of course. Just another datapoint to the validity or error of your tests.
Clearly the OPs test results are wrong based on the fact he says his fish and corals are ok.
 
Step 1. Verify salinity with calibrated refractometer

Step 2. Verify 0ppm ro/di or start making your own.

Step 3. If your salinity is low or high bring it in range to 1.025-1.026 as this will be your BASELINE for macros.

And I will mirror what everyone else says, get some salifert test kits and throw away the API.
 
Best piece of advice anyone in this thread can give you........

Throw out the junk API kits and get something better(hanna, salifert, red sea, lamotte, nyos). Any test kit is better then API. Any test kit that can be used in FW as well as SW just isn't very good as there are many factors that could skew the test in SW that are not present in FW, yet the test kit can be used for both?

API should only be used for FW, and even then their subjective at best.
I wholeheartedly second that. I used the API strips and thinking my dkh was consistently low i kept dosing soda ash to increase it. Then I got a real test kit from Red Sea and found i had gone all the way to 14! Strips aren't just a waste of money they could potentially cause you to OD your tank. Randy has been pretty consistent in saying he doesn't see how a test strip can test for alkalinity.
 

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