Help identifying auto top off??
- Thread starter Ronk1109
- Start date
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P-Dub
The ocean is open to all, merciful to none.
That is what it looks like to me, however, it appears to be missing some parts. Where does the float switch connect to? You have the solenoid and the valve but appear to be missing the controller for both.
C. Eymann
2500 Club Member
Looks like it's made to be run directly off a RODI system with that shut off solenoid.
In order to work your RODI needs to be fitted with a check valve and back pressure activated solenoid block
From the look of things, the tube sits in the water and the float (the styrofoam bit) rises up and closes a circuit when the water is at the correct level. When the water level drops, the circuit opens. The wire coming out the top of the tube relays this signal to... something. Can you get a shot of the end of the wire coming out the top of the tube (the grey one)?
It's possible that it attaches to the solenoid (the black thing with the two white screws on it) directly, or it may plug into a controller of some type. The solenoid looks like it fits in between two RO/DI chambers?
It's possible that it attaches to the solenoid (the black thing with the two white screws on it) directly, or it may plug into a controller of some type. The solenoid looks like it fits in between two RO/DI chambers?
That would be a Lifereef ATO. This is what the controller looks like for it
Gray cable from ATO tube plugs into it, and then this goes into the power. Controller also has power so that pump can be plugged into it. When the bobber in the tube moves up and down, pump is turned on and off through the controller.
Gray cable from ATO tube plugs into it, and then this goes into the power. Controller also has power so that pump can be plugged into it. When the bobber in the tube moves up and down, pump is turned on and off through the controller.
P-Dub
The ocean is open to all, merciful to none.
Then no additional "controller" needed... I think...The gray wire attaches here
The gray wire attaches here
I guess in your case, it plugs into that power box and then solenoid valve is somehow plumbed with RODI. Truth be told I wouldnt want my ATO hard plumbed into RODI, as that is asking for a flood and a disaster.
C. Eymann
2500 Club Member
With this float system its fairly reliable as in it's not going to flood, if the solenoid fails, it will fail off I believe.
Big problem with this is that it can be hard on your membrane from my understanding, small on and off cycles are no bueno.
C. Eymann
2500 Club Member
I wouldn't ditch it just yet, lifereef makes some pretty good stuff, but their ATOs I'm not terribly familiar with. From what it sounds like yours has been modified from original maybe?
Will you need a pump?
If ATO gravity fed reservoir, no, if it didn't come with a pump, yes. What else is plugged into that black box?
Thing that worries me is the apparent (so far via pics) lack of fail safes in place if something goes wrong with the mechanical float mechanism? ATOs need redundancy, with multiple failures having to happen at the same time to cause devastation, Tank crash, flooding, possible electrical fire etc etc.
Only things plugged into that black box is the solenoid and float switch on one end and the plug to the outlet on the other. I reached out to lifereef also to see if they can shed some light on this. With my tank it will be tough for me to have a gravity feed. I’m hoping to use a reservoir that sits at the same level under the tank. Next to my sump.
C. Eymann
2500 Club Member
Listen to what Lifereef has to say first$, if you can setup with some redundancy than it could be a good ATO.
If you do decide to ditch and go a different route I'd highly recommended a 3155 Tunze osmolator, has three safety nets in place and is very precise, works great with an resviour that sits level with the sump too! Spectra pure and smart also make decent ATOs as well.
