Help please... RO/DI

[DragonNamedPuff]

Help needed!

I'm taking the advice I received on this page to buy a RO/DI system and not use tap water. I went with the BRS 6 Stage Universal Plus RO/DI System - 75GPD.

Now I was advised to drain my tank of all the water(because I used tap water) and refill it with my good water from the RO/DI system.

What does everyone think about this?! Should I drain the tank and refill it? If I do will the cycling process start all over?

 

[saltyfilmfolks]

Now I was advised to drain my tank of all the water

noooooo..... Your fine. you can if you want, the bacteria is mostly in the rock.

how are the tests going.

 

[Shelbytwp123]

I wouldn't drain it your tank looks good atm, however there could be some later out brakes of algi that lot people will blame on tap water , but I am no expert in this hobbie. What I would from now on every water change every top of you do I would use RO/DI water and before you know it you will be just fine. Again not an expert advice just thinking out loud... good luck

 

[Ty Hamatake]

I agree the draining the tank is unecessary. There are some people that purely use treated tap water and are just fine. They may just be lucky, but I would say you are totally fine. Nothing a few large water changes wouldn't fix if it does become a problem.

 

[DragonNamedPuff]

noooooo..... Your fine. you can if you want, the bacteria is mostly in the rock.

how are the tests going.

As of yesterday

 

[Shelbytwp123]

As of yesterday

Looks good ... I say no treat ... relax and enjoy your tank

 

[saltyfilmfolks]

oh yea, your fine. Id let it ride. When your Ammoina gets to zero do a big big water change and and let it go another week or so.

If the po4 doesn't come down run some gfo before you really start adding coral. If you get it down to acceptable numbers now you don't risk stripping the water too fast later.

 

[KJAG]

Agree to leave it as is for now. Do a 10-15% water change if you're worried about it, but you've already corrected the tap water issue which is huge. As an aside, and potentially a bit of a mind bender, but here's some good info via from our resident "RODI guy" @AZDesertRat. It helped me out a ton to understand this topic.
https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/ro-issues.257446/#post-3046349

 

[Seyoz]

noooooo..... Your fine. you can if you want, the bacteria is mostly in the rock.

how are the tests going.

Run outta run outta that LFS, and find better LFS!

Guy should be fired!

 

[Seyoz]

Nitrite should come down naturally, stress zyme and add more "cured" live rock to filter....
Cured Test: "If whiff gives of reekula smell don't add!"

Stress Zyme daily.
Ammonia disappears, then nitrite disappears the nitrate bumps up...40,60,80.
Turn off filtration, algae with fresh new toothbrush.
Use a Turkey Baster to free up detritus, leftover decaying materials in Rockwork (Aquascape).
Pay attention to dust pockets. Will help you to understand where extra food will fall in future and where to focus on gravel cleaning.
Let settle 20 minutes.
Then do 50% water change and focus on gravel vacuuming up detritus and dirt. Try not to disrupt your Rock.

In the Beginning, I would set a cup in side the tank and aim the added new saltwater into cup. Allowing it to slowly overflow, filling up your tank without stirring up your tank and causing to be more cloudy longer after water change.

Leave filter alone, could add extra carbon. Carbon will last a month. Chemi-Pure can last 3-6 month fresh water, 1-2 months saltwater. If resin still in pouch, simply between monthly changes shake out in old tank water after a water change and squeeze water out before returning to filter.

I would wait few hours
or next day and get an
"airline tubing"
and slowly
"Trinkle Siphon" leftover detritus that pre-filter or filter didn't get.

Best way to get comfortable with water changes. And understand how to knock nitrates down.