morgan_jAq
Community Member
yea I mistook that my bad
I need Sps help!
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melanotaenia
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This is not a problem of lighting, or coral warfare, or corals releasing chemicals or toxins.
If these are new, SPS sometimes just don't adapt to new tanks, and shed their tissue; I just had this happen on one new addition out of four I added to my two year old tank that has over 40 Acros thriving in it. Also, your lighting is not the problem, and flow should not be a problem either unless you are blasting them directly.
If you are not having problems with bugs or other pests, I would IBID what @Chaswood79 said and it is likely that your setup has bottomed out nutrients that the SPS need to live and I would take the chaeto reactor offline or reduce what is in it because it is stripping your tank. Or alternatively, feed heavier and monitor levels of with the chaeto online until you find a happy medium for which the Acros do well but you don't have problems with algae outbreaks. Your CA+ and Alk levels are fine, as long as they are maintained at that level consistently.
Where did you get the frags from?
If these are new, SPS sometimes just don't adapt to new tanks, and shed their tissue; I just had this happen on one new addition out of four I added to my two year old tank that has over 40 Acros thriving in it. Also, your lighting is not the problem, and flow should not be a problem either unless you are blasting them directly.
If you are not having problems with bugs or other pests, I would IBID what @Chaswood79 said and it is likely that your setup has bottomed out nutrients that the SPS need to live and I would take the chaeto reactor offline or reduce what is in it because it is stripping your tank. Or alternatively, feed heavier and monitor levels of with the chaeto online until you find a happy medium for which the Acros do well but you don't have problems with algae outbreaks. Your CA+ and Alk levels are fine, as long as they are maintained at that level consistently.
Where did you get the frags from?
jmp21677
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Ph is 8 during yhe day and 7.80 at night. I do add coral AB from Redsea for food. I'll try the carbon just to make sure something isn't causing the issue. I did add cuprisorb recently. My ICP tests always seems to show tin.
melanotaenia
Well-Known Member
They need to be detectable; I am skeptical of your test results given how the SPS are shedding in such a short time.
I am not one to chase numbers, I feed rather heavy and don't use any reactors and have had a lot of success with SPS in general, but I also know many who use reactors and also have SPS success, but those tanks are generally fed rather heavily, with high output through skimming/reactors.
Not sure what fish/bioload you have, but get a fish that likes to eat, and often, like a small wrasse.
I am not one to chase numbers, I feed rather heavy and don't use any reactors and have had a lot of success with SPS in general, but I also know many who use reactors and also have SPS success, but those tanks are generally fed rather heavily, with high output through skimming/reactors.
Not sure what fish/bioload you have, but get a fish that likes to eat, and often, like a small wrasse.
Not enough
How many fish do you have and how much do you feed them?
jmp21677
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I have these fish
Purple tang
Pair of Picassos
Royal Gramma
Damsal
Lawnmower Blenny
Fed daily sometimes twice. Few different flake and pellets. Also feed Rods and Brine usually once per week. I'll take some water to a local store to verify my test information on Po4 and nitrates
Purple tang
Pair of Picassos
Royal Gramma
Damsal
Lawnmower Blenny
Fed daily sometimes twice. Few different flake and pellets. Also feed Rods and Brine usually once per week. I'll take some water to a local store to verify my test information on Po4 and nitrates
Sounds like you don’t have enough available fish waste. I have a 50g cube that gets fed 2-3 cubes of frozen mysis everyday.
jmp21677
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What is your fish load like? I recently lost a mandarin and Royal Gramma. Retested both nitrates and phosphate this morning. Phos was .09. Nitrates barely registered. Would plan be to take chaeto off line and start additional feedings
Not to hijack the thread, but I am wondering how often do you have to clean your glass of green algae? I have raised my nutrients to similar level, and my frags have responded well. However, every 2 days I get significant dusting on the glass, which I have to clean.
You dont have to clean green dusting from the glass every few days?
I clean the glass everyday
1-19 year old ocellaris
1-bristletooth
1- foxface (need to find a new home for him)
1-orchistriped cardinal
2-banghai cardinals
2-six line wrasse
3-chalk basslets
3-mcneilis basslets
1-royal gramma basslet
1-orchid dottyback
2-swales swissguard basslets
1-red cardinal
1-15 yr old short spine urchin
And At least 50 assorted hermits and snails
Maybe I missed it, but did you answer how old the tank is? IMO that’s a key question in survivability of acros. As others have mentioned, Nitrate is low, Alk is high. IMO acros do better with closer to NSW Alk when you are running ULN as you are. I’d allow your Alk to drop to around +/- 7.5.
Also, be sure your Mag is at least 1350 which will keep your Alk/Mag more stable. It might be a good idea to invest in some test kits so you don’t have to rely on LFS testing. IMO, anyone keeping acros should be regularly testing for:
Salinity
Alk
Cal
Mag
Nitrate
Phosphate
Also, be sure your Mag is at least 1350 which will keep your Alk/Mag more stable. It might be a good idea to invest in some test kits so you don’t have to rely on LFS testing. IMO, anyone keeping acros should be regularly testing for:
Salinity
Alk
Cal
Mag
Nitrate
Phosphate
jmp21677
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I don't use local stores for any testing. It was just to confirm my tests on phosphates and nitrates. I've got doubles of just about all the test kits at this point. Lol. I would rather raise my nutrients than try to lower my alk. I've never had luck with a low alk. The tank is 18 months old but was an uograde from a tank that was almost 3 years old
