Seems to be elevated in the tank. They do best at lower third of tank under moderate light and water flow
Temp 77-79
salinity 1.025
ph 8.1-8.3
alk around 9
it’s actually way at the bottom. Do you think it should be receiving less light?
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Seems to be elevated in the tank. They do best at lower third of tank under moderate light and water flow
Temp 77-79
salinity 1.025
ph 8.1-8.3
alk around 9
Well to start off oh, need to know what kind of Dino is you're dealing with. Some of them go in the water column at night and when they do they get hung up in your filter socks and that's not helping. You may have to dose nitrates and phosphates to elevate them. Being zero is what started the dinos in the first place. To see what kind of dinos you have you need a microscope.I actually have bee overfeeding so so much yet the nitrates and phosphates are not increasing. I thought that by not changing the filter socks, I’m allowing for the mysis and other stuff that get to the filter socks to turn into nitrates (after turning into ammonia). No matter what I do, the nitrates and phosphates are legit not increasing at all
No, 90 par is not bad at all. Just need to read the thread before replying sometimes.![]()
it’s actually way at the bottom. Do you think it should be receiving less light?

Add blue intensity and less white. Befiore addressing this however, I do see Prescence of dino. For dino, keep it simple. . . .![]()
it’s actually way at the bottom. Do you think it should be receiving less light?
Thank you very much for the advice! Super helpful. Although, I think the Dinos are going away on their own and are being replaced by this other very brown algae and green diatoms. I think starting off with dry rock has really made it a difficult start for me.Add blue intensity and less white. Befiore addressing this however, I do see Prescence of dino. For dino, keep it simple. . . .
Prepare by starting with a water change and blow this stuff loose with a turkey baster and siphon up loose particles.
Turn lights off (at least white and run blue at 10-15% IF you have light dependent corals) for 5 days and at night dose 1ml of 3% hydrogen peroxide per 10 gallons for all 5 nights. If you dont have light dependent coral- turn all lights off.
During the day dose 1ml of liquid bacteria (such as bacter 7 or XLM) per 10 gallons.
Clean filters daily and DO NOT FEED CORAL FOODS OR ADD NOPOX as it is food for dinos.
Day 5,, you can start with blue lights - ramping up and work your white lights up slowly
For the Lepto, run the blues as indicated

Will I have to dose nitrates and phosphates forever? How do some people manage to have too much nitrates and phosphates? I’m legit struggling to get them above 0 and the last time I’ve seen my nitrates above 0 was during the cycling phaseWell to start off oh, need to know what kind of Dino is you're dealing with. Some of them go in the water column at night and when they do they get hung up in your filter socks and that's not helping. You may have to dose nitrates and phosphates to elevate them. Being zero is what started the dinos in the first place. To see what kind of dinos you have you need a microscope.
No, phosphates get bound to rocks sand and will hit an equilibrium, nitrates you may have to dose more. Every tank is different. This is the short story. Lots of info to read on this.Will I have to dose nitrates and phosphates forever? How do some people manage to have too much nitrates and phosphates? I’m legit struggling to get them above 0 and the last time I’ve seen my nitrates above 0 was during the cycling phase
Your tank is still cycling and maturing.Will I have to dose nitrates and phosphates forever? How do some people manage to have too much nitrates and phosphates? I’m legit struggling to get them above 0 and the last time I’ve seen my nitrates above 0 was during the cycling phase
Does that mean I shouldn't dose phos right now? Only nitrate?No, phosphates get bound to rocks sand and will hit an equilibrium, nitrates you may have to dose more. Every tank is different. This is the short story. Lots of info to read on this.
Do you mean that I shouldn't have bought corals since it's still maturing?Your tank is still cycling and maturing.
No, just that you're going through "the uglies", and that the way your tank uses phos/nitrate will change as the tank matures. Too much "trying to fix things" while a new tank (started with dry rock) develops the different types of algae is often counterproductive as each "fix" can lead to additional issues.Do you mean that I shouldn't have bought corals since it's still maturing?

