Long distance PMUP

[Titleist]

So rather than string the power cable across the room I was thinking of running a line from the side of the stand to the wall, inside and up the wall across the ceiling, down a wall and out above the reservoir down inside to the pmup. If this is just a 24 pump, and they sell a bare wire 24 cable, should stand to reason I can just run my own line over to the pump. Total run is around 20 feet.

Anyone already do this using the extension cable to get it back into the 24 port?

I'm also counting on that 14' head pressure although it's more like 6 up 9 across 8 down and around to the sump.

 

[Mjrenz]

So rather than string the power cable across the room I was thinking of running a line from the side of the stand to the wall, inside and up the wall across the ceiling, down a wall and out above the reservoir down inside to the pmup. If this is just a 24 pump, and they sell a bare wire 24 cable, should stand to reason I can just run my own line over to the pump. Total run is around 20 feet.

Anyone already do this using the extension cable to get it back into the 24 port?

I'm also counting on that 14' head pressure although it's more like 6 up 9 across 8 down and around to the sump.

I spliced in a lamp cord to my PMUP that's about 25 feet long and haven't had an issue. I used the lamp cord because it's a stranded wire and I wanted to reduce voltage drop. I haven't bothered to check how much voltage drop I'm getting but now I'm thinking about it, 10% is the max you'd want to see.

 

[ccombs]

I spliced in a lamp cord to my PMUP that's about 25 feet long and haven't had an issue. I used the lamp cord because it's a stranded wire and I wanted to reduce voltage drop. I haven't bothered to check how much voltage drop I'm getting but now I'm thinking about it, 10% is the max you'd want to see.

I highly doubt you are even getting that much drop in a real world application. Obviously a different application, but using 12 ga cabling, I run 330' at my job on a daily basis and lose only a few volts.

 

[Mjrenz]

I highly doubt you are even getting that much drop in a real world application. Obviously a different application, but using 12 ga cabling, I run 330' at my job on a daily basis and lose only a few volts.

I doubt it too, but now I'm really curious. I didn't even check to see what the amp draw of the pump was but I figured I'd be safe with how much I spliced in and the fact that it was 24 volts and not 12.

 

[Titleist]

I spliced in a lamp cord to my PMUP that's about 25 feet long and haven't had an issue. I used the lamp cord because it's a stranded wire and I wanted to reduce voltage drop. I haven't bothered to check how much voltage drop I'm getting but now I'm thinking about it, 10% is the max you'd want to see.

Did you end up getting the extra 24v apex cable for the other side then?

 

[Mjrenz]

Did you end up getting the extra 24v apex cable for the other side then?

I thought about it but went the cheap way and just cut the cord and used bullet connectors on both ends

 

[Brett S]

I'm also counting on that 14' head pressure although it's more like 6 up 9 across 8 down and around to the sump.

I’m using a PMUP to pump skimmate out of my avast skimmate locker. The line goes into the wall, up about 10 or 12 feet, then over 15 or 20 feet, then down the wall into my laundry room drain. It’s been doing this for a little over a year and it’s still running strong.

One thing I did with my install was to use a one way valve right at that PMUP output. Without this the liquid in the whole line would drain back into my skimmate locker every time the pump shut off. It wouldn’t be the end of the world if it did that, but it would mean that the pump would need to work a little harder to refill the tube every time it ran. If you do this though, I discovered that the pump was unable to self prime if you installed the check valve, then dropped the pump into the water. The check valve prevented the pump from filling with water and it was unable to generate enough pressure to push the air through. Instead you need to put the pump into the water, then while it’s underwater install the check valve. This way the pump will be filled with water when it first runs and will have no problem pushing out the little air that remains or filling the tube.

Finally, I did note one potential concern with the numbers you posted. You said that it was 6 feet up and 8 feet down. If the output end of the tube is lower than the water level in the reservoir then as soon as the pump runs the first time and the tube fills with water then it will start a siphon and even after the pump turns off the water will continue to flow until the reservoir is drained. You need to make sure that the output end of the tube is higher than the water level at it’s highest in the reservoir or introduce an air gap or a siphon break somewhere in the line.

 

[Titleist]

I’m using a PMUP to pump skimmate out of my avast skimmate locker. The line goes into the wall, up about 10 or 12 feet, then over 15 or 20 feet, then down the wall into my laundry room drain. It’s been doing this for a little over a year and it’s still running strong.

One thing I did with my install was to use a one way valve right at that PMUP output. Without this the liquid in the whole line would drain back into my skimmate locker every time the pump shut off. It wouldn’t be the end of the world if it did that, but it would mean that the pump would need to work a little harder to refill the tube every time it ran. If you do this though, I discovered that the pump was unable to self prime if you installed the check valve, then dropped the pump into the water. The check valve prevented the pump from filling with water and it was unable to generate enough pressure to push the air through. Instead you need to put the pump into the water, then while it’s underwater install the check valve. This way the pump will be filled with water when it first runs and will have no problem pushing out the little air that remains or filling the tube.

Finally, I did note one potential concern with the numbers you posted. You said that it was 6 feet up and 8 feet down. If the output end of the tube is lower than the water level in the reservoir then as soon as the pump runs the first time and the tube fills with water then it will start a siphon and even after the pump turns off the water will continue to flow until the reservoir is drained. You need to make sure that the output end of the tube is higher than the water level at it’s highest in the reservoir or introduce an air gap or a siphon break somewhere in the line.

Thanks for that tip! Just like a sump pump

Actually the line enters the wall then up 6 feet, then out of the wall lower. You're right, that doesn't make a difference actually when the pump is at the bottom of the reservoir and the lateral output from the wall is probably actually higher the the top of the pump.

I intended to use the john guest on the top of the sump to send water into the return side, I was thinking only an inch or so of line down on the inside so there'd be an air gap. I'm sure it'll make some noise but it's all in another room that's fairly good at sound deadening. I also don't have that great a gas exchange in the closed room so evap is pretty slow right now.

 

[Brett S]

Actually the line enters the wall then up 6 feet, then out of the wall lower. You're right, that doesn't make a difference actually when the pump is at the bottom of the reservoir and the lateral output from the wall is probably actually higher the the top of the pump.

It’s not the top of the pump that maters, but the water level in the reservoir. If the end of the tube or the air gap is below the water level in your reservoir when it’s full then you’ll have problems. If the end of the tube or the air gap is higher than the water level when the reservoir is full then you’ll be good.

I intended to use the john guest on the top of the sump to send water into the return side, I was thinking only an inch or so of line down on the inside so there'd be an air gap.

I’m not quite sure what you mean by this. John Guest is a style of push to connect fitting that is most definitely water (and air) tight. Using John Guest style fittings wouldn’t inherently create an air gap.

 

[Titleist]

Air gap is from the end of output tube above water line.