Looking for Beginner Advice

[jps1981]

Hey, guys. First off, sorry for the long post. Thanks in advance for your time.

I am new to aquariums and wanted to know how badly I am messing up. I never learned chemistry. I wanted to run what I've done by people that are experienced for advice. I am out of my league and trying to catch up and learn as much as I can. I feel like I am over-doing it and some actions I'm taking need to stop.

I started the tank (added the premixed RO/DI saltwater) on April 29th. I did not rinse the 40lbs sand because it was live and figured that would ruin the point (the sandstorm was epic). I added 1 6lb piece of live rock from LFS to help seed the 40lbs of dry rock. I added 2 yellow-tailed damsels around March 3rd because I read it would help with the cylcing via ammonia. I started adding Seachem Stability around March 5th because I read that would also help with cycling and ensure the safety of the 2 fish. I've been maintaining the Stability as per the instructions (cap a day) since then. I have some Instant Ocean BIO-Spira (marine) waiting to go when the Stability runs out. I've had the powerhead and filter running full time since the day I filled the tank, and just recently cut back on the hours of lighting since reading it promoted unproductive bacteria in the cycling stage.

I've had concerns about the original Aqueon filter (Aqueon 06081 QuietFlow 20 Power Filter, 125GPH), so I replaced that. I also thought a powerhead pushing too much GPH would turn the tank into an amusement park so I got one in the lower range of acceptable GPH. Added some silk plants because the tank looked dead and it was bugging me. I keep 10 gallons of salt and fresh water in bins to the side (both RO/DI). I am also still baffled at how LED lights have the same effects as normal incandescent. I get the difference between normal and UVB. But, LED seems so artificial that I just can't wrap my head around it having the same effect on bacteria as other types of lighting (UVB excluded).

I've tested 3 times with API 5-in-1 strips and the levels have all been where they should be if the tank were stabilized (everything was safe for fish). It's all resting on a rubber mat to stabilize the aquarium. No skimmer, sump, or refugium since I read they weren't really necessary in such a small tank. The fish all have bold color and haven't been hiding as much as the days go by, so I am pretty sure they're not stressed too badly.

Tank specs:
TANK: Aqueon 29 gallon glass aquarium
LIGHTING: Aqueon 30" x 12" hood with LED lighting (16 LEDs), with timer running about 4 hours per day.
SUBSTRATE: Carib Sea Ocean Direct Natural Live Sand for Aquarium (40 pounds), not rinsed
LIVE ROCK: Carib Sea South Sea Base Rock (40 Pounds)
WATER: Pre-mixed RO/DI saltwater, with 10 gallons of both pre-mixed salt and plain RO/DI from LFS
PLANTS: Silk, soaked overnight seperately in RO/DI.

HEATER: Aqueon 06252 100w Preset Heater
FILTER: Marineland Penguin Power Filter, 200 GPH
POWERHEAD: JEBO AP1800 Aquarium Power Head, 345GPH
SKIMMER: none
SUMP: none
REFUGIUM: none

TESTING: API 5 in 1 Aquarium Test Strips, Digital thermometer with probe, Instant Ocean SeaTest Hydrometer

... so, can anyone tell me how badly I've screwed up and how to fix it? And what to do in the weeks coming up? I am learning as much as I can. I figured out the tropical arboreal reptile gig after a month or so of reading and experience, and got cocky. I underestimated how steep the learning curve was with marine aquariums. It's about twice as complex as my most delicate reptile setups.

Any advice is really appreciated.

 

[jps1981]

Geez, I feel like I forgot an incredibly important piece of info. This is an FOWLR tank. We're moving in a year and I don't want to commit to reefs or inverts until after the move and everything will be unchanged for a while.

 

[Humblefish]

You're basically on the right path. Since you don't plan on keeping corals, type of lighting is less of an issue. It really doesn't have that much of an impact on the propagation of nitrifying bacteria, but matters most for algae growth. One thing you are going to probably wanna do before adding more fish to your tank is get those damsels out. They are mean little SOBs in a tank that small.

I would focus more on fish you see here (or similar) for a tank that size: Nano Fish

 

[Mike in CT]

How are you concerned that you have screwed up? Are your fish still alive? Have you noticed your tank cycle? Once it cycles you will go through a number of different stages of your tank maturing, but as long as you keep your fish stocking smart you are on the right track. Just do some more research with any questions you have and you will find an abundance of information online.

 

[Humblefish]

I would read thru this: How to set up a saltwater reef aquarium tank- REEFEDITION

 

[jps1981]

I just want to say thanks again for everyone's time. It's much appreciated, and brings me some peace of mind to know my work is being scrutinized for potential mistakes.

lighting is less of an issue. It really doesn't have that much of an impact on the propagation of nitrifying bacteria, but matters most for algae growth.

I think I'm getting algae and bacteria confused. I just looked it up, and now I have more questions. How can algae exist at all in an environment with no UVB or natural sunlight? Wouldn't it be required for photosynthesis? Would it be okay to leave the light on a 12/12 photocycle and not worry about algae since it's LED?

One thing you are going to probably wanna do before adding more fish to your tank is get those damsels out. They are mean little SOBs in a tank that small.

Ugh, yeah, this is another story. I spent about 4 hours on Google the other day trying to figure out how much damage is TOO much damage. I read that fish can regrow their fins pretty quickly, and didn't know the difference between "nipping" and "they will never coexist" ... I have a 3rd yellow-tail damsel (I was trying to follow the rule of odd numbers for schooling fish). It's in a critter keeper off to the side (it has heat, aeration, and water flow, but no filter). What I do with that one depends on if the one that got beaten up makes up a recovery or not. I'll put up a picture, but it's unpleasant. He got his rear and side fin completely chewed off. The discoloration was caused by stress. He went back to his vibrant blue shortly after I put him back in his 'real' tank and took the bully damsel out. I haven't seen him since. My wife said she saw him the other morning. I dunno. Just waiting at this point.

nano fish

I had made a list of fish I was interested in. Ones that were inexpensive, easy to care for, and peaceful (or so they say). Blue Reef Chromis, False Percula Clownfish, Lawnmower Blenny, Rusty Angelfish, Shrimpoby - Yellow Watchman ... I plan on keeping the population pretty small. I read somewhere the total small fish population shouldn't exceed 12" for a 30 gallon tank, so I will pick and choose from that list when the time comes. The yellow tails are intended to be temporary. I am trying not to get attached, and told my wife not to, either. But, when they get injured like that (above), it's hard not to care. Got a weak spot for injured animals.

How are you concerned that you have screwed up? ... Have you noticed your tank cycle?

And that's the main thing. I'm not getting any feedback from the tank. Chemically, nothing is changing. Visually either, for that matter. I realize changes might not happen for 4 or more weeks. The fish are alive, but I want to make sure I'm doing all I can to make sure everything is going right and those changes will occur as they're supposed to. Control freak, I know.

I would read thru this: How to set up a saltwater reef aquarium tank- REEFEDITION

Ah, I'm surprised I found one I haven't read. Seems like I've read at least 10 full guides to setting up marine tanks. Which is probably why I'm so confused. Not only are they different guides, but every guide has different cycling methods mentioned (chemicals, without fish, with fish, etc). I will read that at lunch. It looks very long and thorough. I like that.

 

[LetItReef]

I had made a list of fish I was interested in. Ones that were inexpensive, easy to care for, and peaceful (or so they say). Blue Reef Chromis, False Percula Clownfish, Lawnmower Blenny, Rusty Angelfish, Shrimpoby - Yellow Watchman ... I plan on keeping the population pretty small. I read somewhere the total small fish population shouldn't exceed 12" for a 30 gallon tank, so I will pick and choose from that list when the time comes. The yellow tails are intended to be temporary. I am trying not to get attached, and told my wife not to, either. But, when they get injured like that (above), it's hard not to care. Got a weak spot for injured animals.

Rusty angelfish needs a bigger tank, though I have seem some Flame angelfish on 29g. The rest of your pick are good. We have standard 29g mix reef with 4 fish and Handful of inverts- Shrimps, Starfish, snails.

 

[glb]

It doesn't sound to me like you've screwed up. We all have a learning curve, especially with fish getting along in a small tank. I would get liquid test kits as the strips aren't really accurate. I'd read up on reef chemistry in the reef chemistry forum. But overall, with a fowlr tank it sounds like you're doing pretty well to me.

 

[jofost1216]

U seem to be doing pretty good. I personally do not like to add too many things to the tank additive wise. The most important part is havibg patience to let the tank cycle before throwing life in there. Yes there are things you can use to add fish immediately but you should let the tank create that stuff naturally. Theres so much bs literature out there, its all basically opinions. These are some of mine. Keep it as natural as you can. Be patient. It sucks staring at an empty tank but for the sake of the fish, do it. It will be worth it in the long run

 

[jps1981]

Thanks again for the feedback. It's good to know I'm on the right track. I read the guide that Humblefish recommended and though some didn't apply to small tanks, there was a lot of good information in there. I especially liked the very clear descriptions of the cycling process. I made a huge error in thinking NO3 and NH4/NH3 were close enough to be the same thing. I am heading out to get an NH3/NH4 test kit right now. The strips don't gauge that.

Rusty angelfish needs a bigger tank, though I have seem some Flame angelfish on 29g. The rest of your pick are good. We have standard 29g mix reef with 4 fish and Handful of inverts- Shrimps, Starfish, snails.

Okay, that's good to know. I was making a list based on sizes but I guess I got excited about the color and messed that one up. I'll fix that.

I have a list of inverts as well, but I know they're more delicate so I was holding off on them until we moved. Fire shrimp, emerald crab, and maybe a serpent starfish.

I would get liquid test kits as the strips aren't really accurate.

Every time I use one of those strips, I have this nagging in the back of my head that something could be off. I won't be able to handle it once I have lifeforms in there I care about. I'll switch to liquids once I hit that stage. I think there's just enough strips to last through the cycling.

I personally do not like to add too many things to the tank additive wise. The most important part is havibg patience to let the tank cycle before throwing life in there. Yes there are things you can use to add fish immediately but you should let the tank create that stuff naturally. Theres so much bs literature out there, its all basically opinions. These are some of mine. Keep it as natural as you can. Be patient. It sucks staring at an empty tank but for the sake of the fish, do it. It will be worth it in the long run

I am not sure what inspired me to use additives. Like you said, there's just so much literature out there, I got pretty overwhelmed. Now, I'm afraid to stop using them because I'm not sure how that will affect the tank. I really wish I'd taken chemistry ... I don't mind the empty tank. The silk plants give it some life, and I like the sound of the running water. It's still beautiful. The damsels stay hidden most of the time, anyway. I think that's because it's on the 2nd floor and they feel the vibrations when someone is approaching.

Thanks again, guys.

 

[jps1981]

NO3 and NH4/NH3 were close enough to be the same thing. .

I meant N02 there. I really like the advanced formatting options on this forum, but is there no way to edit posts?

 

[jps1981]

Okay, so that looks like 1.0ppm ammonia, 0 Nitrites, and 0 Nitrates? Kind'a hard to see what's going on with the Nitrite. But if the Nitrite is 0, then the cycling is still in stage 1. Or the Stability additive is throwing everything off.

 

[falconerr]

Everything looks good to me. Now you just need to let nature take its course. You should start seeing your ammonia level dropping and your nitrites starting to climb. The chemical breakdown of ammonia to nitrites then to nitrates is what your looking for. I think I have that in the right order if not someone will chime in. When you see your nitrates spike you are close to the end of your cycle. Be patient at this point imo.

 

[jps1981]

There's the PH, which is around 8.0. The hydrometer is showing 1.023.

Should I just get rid of the fish and ramp up the ammonia? I got the fish following yet another start up guide's advice, and it was never meant to be permanent. I'm thinking I made a bad choice there. I don't want to torture them.

 

[falconerr]

Imo I would leave the fish they should be fine and I always start a new system with a fish or 2. Your parameters are going to be all over the place for the next few weeks.

 

[jps1981]

Imo I would leave the fish they should be fine and I always start a new system with a fish or 2. Your parameters are going to be all over the place for the next few weeks.

Okay, thanks for the advice. Everyone. Looks like I'll just sit back and watch the show. I feel a lot better about the direction things are going.

 

[glb]

I think you're fine. IME you can put Seachsm Prime in the tank to neutralize the ammonia without upsetting the cycle. That would protect the fish if they start having problems.

 

[jofost1216]

Elos test kits is the only way to go. Others take averages, expire quickly or arent accurate. Elos are a bit more but have been tested and proven

 

[jofost1216]

That shows a little nitrite. Not 0 but no high. Still, any nitrite is toxic

 

[glb]

If your budget allows, these are the test kits I use after a lot of trial and error:

Nitrates, mg, ca (Salifert) c. $15 each

Refractometer for salinity for about $30 and up on Amazon.

Alk and phosphates: Hanna Checkers (c. $50 each for original kit and c. $8-9 for reagent refills.

Digital ph monitor (I got a basic handheld model for c. $25 on Amazon. They go up from there.

I acquired these over time. The Saliferts are very easy to use and relatively inexpensive for what I think is a great test.

Hanna checkers are great too, but not necessarily for everything. I love my Alk one but the phosphate one is a little more tedious.

The most important thing to remember about testing is to test the same way every time. You're looking for upward/downward trends as much as you're looking at the actual numbers. There's many ways to test your water so to a large degree it's a matter of preference. I started with API like most of us do and as I got interested in corals it wasn't accurate enough. But I used it in my fowlr tank for 3 years without a problem.

The important thing is that you're testing. Good luck and you'll learn a lot here!