MnFish1
10K Club member
Hi - I know - I wasn't suggesting that you leave them open - just explaining the reason your pH can fluctuate. A large enough CO2 scrubber should at a minimum, help - especially if the media is refreshed 'on time'.
Low ph help
- Thread starter Jphvav90
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One minute of cross breeze a day with a decent wind is enough, but 5-10 minutes is even better. You have to exchange air, not cool down or warm up the place. 1 minute with a 1 mph wind through a 2x3 window replaces 528 cubic feet of air, so a 5 mph breeze is 2500, or so... and so on. Front and back door open is like thousands of cubic feet a minute. It is just too easy to do and won't even move your heat or cool.
The less co2 that you have in your home, the longer that soda ash lasts.
The less co2 that you have in your home, the longer that soda ash lasts.
No, the ratio does not matter. More o2 does not help if co2 is high. Get co2 low in the house and then if you still have pH issues, then look elsewhere.
BubblesandSqueak
Valuable Member
on a trade off. Ive been using reef builder which is supposed to raise Alk, not pH. My All never goes up? with peeps saying "windows open" would this also be an issue in a biocube since its enclosed? on the closed side, my evap is almost non existent. water changes 2 weeks out. just can't seem to boost Alk.
Dburr1014
10K Club member
OP,
Before you start dosing this and that(windows is a great idea), how old is your probe? Old probes seem to wander around. Also, I personally have found the way neptune does there manual calibration, it's better to do it twice consecutively. It gives you a more accurate reading.
Which brings me to another question... You do do the manual calibration not the automatic, right? Manual is so much better. If you need help to get to it, we can help.
Ferrell
Valuable Member
I used to run n outside line to the skimmer in the summer and it would raise the ph 0.2-0.4. If you have a gas stove or lots Of people or heavy breathing big dogs (me) it’ll affect ph as well. Open window works too
Jphvav90
Community Member
How do you do the manual calibration? I go to the ph and do the calibrate then it asks for the 7 and waits and then the 10 and waits then says okay. Is there a different or better method to use?
Jphvav90
Community Member
Also the phobe is about 2 years old
sergifed91
Valuable Member
Late spring to early fall I struggle with ph being 7.5 at night and 7.8 high during the day. So I use a CO2 scrubber. Then mid to late fall I take it off. Go the whole winter without it and see better results. Since my dt is in the basement winter issue is the temp in the tank. Not CO2. So I have 2 300 watt heaters and keep it at 78 to 80 degrees. Winter there's always a good breeze so the CO2 levels lower drastically. The windows are original from the 40s so back then the houses weren't air tight. Even closed I feel the breeze coming through. But summer months it's dead stall air outside with no breeze at all. Already this fall I took the CO2 scrubber off. It's windy out. Had the techs out measure the CO2 2 weeks ago. In two weeks time it was up to 1200 just today the came back out and measured down to 900. And coming back out in another 2 weeks to measure the CO2 in the basement again. If the wind stays the CO2 will drop. Remember I don't open the basement windows. To old and not air tight. So I'm hoping it will be in the 700 ppm range in 2 weeks.
Pvtgloss
Valuable Member
The skimmer venturi hose goes to the middle of the valve.
The right side of valve goes to Co2 media chamber, then to a chamber acting as a moisture trap, and then to the skimmer cup.
The lrft side of the valve has a hose going behind the tank to pull in air from the room.
The solenoid is energized by the breakout box. When the circuit is open the valve pulls from Co2 that's recirculating through the skimmer. When Ph reaches 8.3 the breakout box energizes the solenoid and pulls from the room.
I've switched out media only once in 6 or more months. And putting the moisture trap below the media I don't get any moisture in the media.
Before this I had my skimmer set up recirculating and the apex programmed ṭo shut it off at 8.3 but then my skimmer stayed shut off most of the time. Now it runs 24/7.
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bakbay
Valuable Member
Before we jump into the deep end and conclude that a low ph of 7.8 was the leading cause of coral death, can you please share water parameters? What were the big three and more importantly, N&P? If your N&P bottomed out, I suspect that they were likely suspects vs “low” ph.
Treefer32
Valuable Member
I have problems with this, My old probe was saying 8.1-8.3 year round. I realized the probe was 3-4 years old and should probably replace it. I replaced it with a brand new one and calibrated 2-3 times with PH 7 and ph 10 solution. Now, my ph bottoms out at 7.6 and tops out at 7.9. If I'm lucky some days I hit 7.8. I tried a CO2 scrubber, which did squat for me. I'm now dosing kalkwasser now, not as much as I need to, but, I've always been using baked baking soda which raises ph as well.
So, trying the combo of kalkwasser and baked baking soda. Tank is 6 going on 7 years old - 340 gallon mixed reef. Oversized skimmer, Algae turf scrubber (which produces oxygen) and skimmer intake is ran to an adjacent room that gets more air flow.
I'm in the same boat. I'm actually wondering if there's something with aged tanks and PH control. I've seen a few people complain about tanks older than 1-2 years that have continuous low ph issues. As with most things in this hobby, may be coincidental...
I should do a test strip or some other PH test to verify my ph probe. But, I calibrated it twice and got no shift in readings. I do use the Apex Classic (about 10-12 year old Apex).
So, trying the combo of kalkwasser and baked baking soda. Tank is 6 going on 7 years old - 340 gallon mixed reef. Oversized skimmer, Algae turf scrubber (which produces oxygen) and skimmer intake is ran to an adjacent room that gets more air flow.
I'm in the same boat. I'm actually wondering if there's something with aged tanks and PH control. I've seen a few people complain about tanks older than 1-2 years that have continuous low ph issues. As with most things in this hobby, may be coincidental...
I should do a test strip or some other PH test to verify my ph probe. But, I calibrated it twice and got no shift in readings. I do use the Apex Classic (about 10-12 year old Apex).
bakbay
Valuable Member
I suspect that your pH meter is off. I have 3 tanks, all with Apex and can confirm that pH is off, even with calibration. In fact, I did this 2 weeks ago — the Milwaukee was reporting 8.2 and my recalibrated pH meter on the Apex reported 7.9 (same water, same tank)! I’ve moved the probe back to the Milwaukee.
Anyway, I’m not aware of old tank syndrome since my current tank is just shy of 3yrs old. My previous 60g cube was always hovering around 8-8.1 for almost 7 years.
As for CO2 scrubber, are you using the right media? I’ve literally just replaced the media — it works wonders for me! By tomorrow, pH will climb back to 8.3-8.4 peak. See data from a few months ago.
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bakbay
Valuable Member
When pH is under 8, it’s time to change the media. I can report back tomorrow to show the before & after effect of replacing the media. Btw: I run a CaRx so I’m super sensitive to pH.
I’ve been doing recirculating CO2 scrubber and don’t have the replace the media every month, not bad.
I’ve been doing recirculating CO2 scrubber and don’t have the replace the media every month, not bad.
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Usually pH chasing is the last thing you do when you're pushing growth on corals. Its best use is looking for delta changes of -/+0.20 in a short period of time. (easy way to tick off a tank)
Verify that no other conditions in your tank have changed.
Ensure that all pieces of equipment are operating as you expect. No broken heaters, rusted equipment, CO2 scrubber media isnt entering system, electronics aren't busted and zapping your tank.
Then validate your inputs into the system. ATO water == 0ppm, water change water is made up of 0 ppm water + your salt no other additives, any dosing to your tank is accurate and any corrections you're doing are tracked and measured
Do a historical recall on what you've done to the tank, what have you added to the tank? food, chemicals, what % water change and frequency? was the water same temp? are parameters of fresh water not too different from tank water?
Verify that no other conditions in your tank have changed.
Ensure that all pieces of equipment are operating as you expect. No broken heaters, rusted equipment, CO2 scrubber media isnt entering system, electronics aren't busted and zapping your tank.
Then validate your inputs into the system. ATO water == 0ppm, water change water is made up of 0 ppm water + your salt no other additives, any dosing to your tank is accurate and any corrections you're doing are tracked and measured
Do a historical recall on what you've done to the tank, what have you added to the tank? food, chemicals, what % water change and frequency? was the water same temp? are parameters of fresh water not too different from tank water?
Dburr1014
10K Club member
Here are some steps.
Also, turn on the tc function. That is for temperature calibration.
And like I said earlier, I do it 2x's back to back with the same solution floating in the sump. It makes the solution the same temperature. Sometimes I get a time out calibrating the first time. The second time will go quicker. I really don't know why neptune changed the way the calibration is done, it's a pita.
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Dburr1014
10K Club member
Test your probe by making a stock solution with Borax.
Let me see if I can find the article.
Here it is.
