Microscope Algae ID Please- Dinos?

[Keko21]

 

[AFHokie]

Can’t be 100% sure because it’s zoomed out but I’m pretty confident I see some Ostreopsis in there.

 

[vetteguy53081]

Im seeing some procentrium but others unidentifiable due to lighting.
Do you have pics of actual tank under white lighting ?

 

[Keko21]

Im seeing some procentrium but others unidentifiable due to lighting.
Do you have pics of actual tank under white lighting ?

 

[Keko21]

 

[vetteguy53081]

Thats what I thought when I said unidentifiable. This is cyano. Cyano typically starts when water nutrient concentrations of phosphate, nitrate and other organic compounds are too high.
Some of the most common causes include:
- Protein skimmer which fills water with tiny air bubbles. As bubbles form from the reaction chamber, dissolved organic compound molecules stick to them. Foam forms at the surface of the water and is then transferred to a collection cup, where it rests as skimmate. When the protein skimmer does not output the best efficiency or you do not have the suitable protein skimmer to cover the tank, the air bubbles created by the skimmer might be insufficient. And this insufficiency of air bubbles can trigger the cyano to thrive.
- Overstocking / overfeeding, your aquarium with nutrients is often the culprit of a cyano bloom
- Adding live rock that isn’t completely cured which acts like a breeding ground for red slime algae
- If you don’t change your water with enough frequency, you’ll soon have a brightly colored red slime algae bloom. Regular water changes dilute nutrients that feed cyanobacteria and keeps your tank beautifully clear
- Using a water source with nitrates or phosphates is like rolling out the welcome mat for cyano. Tap water is an example
- Inadequate water flow, or movement, is a leading cause of cyano blooms. Slow moving water combined with excess dissolved nutrients is a recipe for pervasive red slime algae development

I recommend to reduce white light intensity or even turn them off for 5-7 days and then siphon it up. Add liquid bacteria daily for a week during the day at 1.5ml per 10 gallons. Add Hydrogen peroxide at night at 1ml per 10 gallons. Add a pouch of chemipure blue which will balance phos and nitrate and keep them in check.

After the week, add a few snails such as cerith, margarita, astrea and nassarius plus 6-8 blue leg hermits to take control.

 

[Keko21]

Thats what I thought when I said unidentifiable. This is cyano. Cyano typically starts when water nutrient concentrations of phosphate, nitrate and other organic compounds are too high.
Some of the most common causes include:
- Protein skimmer which fills water with tiny air bubbles. As bubbles form from the reaction chamber, dissolved organic compound molecules stick to them. Foam forms at the surface of the water and is then transferred to a collection cup, where it rests as skimmate. When the protein skimmer does not output the best efficiency or you do not have the suitable protein skimmer to cover the tank, the air bubbles created by the skimmer might be insufficient. And this insufficiency of air bubbles can trigger the cyano to thrive.
- Overstocking / overfeeding, your aquarium with nutrients is often the culprit of a cyano bloom
- Adding live rock that isn’t completely cured which acts like a breeding ground for red slime algae
- If you don’t change your water with enough frequency, you’ll soon have a brightly colored red slime algae bloom. Regular water changes dilute nutrients that feed cyanobacteria and keeps your tank beautifully clear
- Using a water source with nitrates or phosphates is like rolling out the welcome mat for cyano. Tap water is an example
- Inadequate water flow, or movement, is a leading cause of cyano blooms. Slow moving water combined with excess dissolved nutrients is a recipe for pervasive red slime algae development

I recommend to reduce white light intensity or even turn them off for 5-7 days and then siphon it up. Add liquid bacteria daily for a week during the day at 1.5ml per 10 gallons. Add Hydrogen peroxide at night at 1ml per 10 gallons. Add a pouch of chemipure blue which will balance phos and nitrate and keep them in check.

After the week, add a few snails such as cerith, margarita, astrea and nassarius plus 6-8 blue leg hermits to take control.

I guess I’d rather have cyano than dinos. Didnt have an issue until I used reef roids which spiked my phos….

Ill kill the white light for a week.
Do a 15% water change
Add some bacteria.

Hydrogen peroxide- over the counter? And every night for a week? Any adverse side effects to inverts corals or nems?

I have the CUC including ceriths, astraeas, nassarius and crabs- they all just seem to like the green microalgae on my rocks more

Luckily none of this has touched my rocks or coral and is sticking only to the sand for now.

 

[vetteguy53081]

I guess I’d rather have cyano than dinos. Didnt have an issue until I used reef roids which spiked my phos….

Ill kill the white light for a week.
Do a 15% water change
Add some bacteria.

Hydrogen peroxide- over the counter? And every night for a week? Any adverse side effects to inverts corals or nems?

I have the CUC including ceriths, astraeas, nassarius and crabs- they all just seem to like the green microalgae on my rocks more

Luckily none of this has touched my rocks or coral and is sticking only to the sand for now.

3% peroxide, yes
3-5 days sufficient but a week and they starve from lack of light