Need help with cycle.

I like to watch everyone's collective input just to see how the tide of cycle stop date calling is evolving in the hobby. My input is this: when ammonia drops in a cycle, it rapidly falls to safe levels relative to the surface area in a given system, which we all overdo. There isn't a display reef cycling anywhere on the internet that is low on surface area, we're all copying each other in ratio and that's why anytime someone adds fish to these cycles, the fish live.


Chemistry bros educated me on api test read issues: the reason cycled tanks tend to read .25 and not zero is because reef tanks don't run zero ammonia, they run a constant low level since ammonia production from respiring organisms doesn't stop 24x7

Api needs converted into nh3 per the directions before relaying to us as an ammonia level
Everyone skips that part and relays to us the nh4 reading, which is for freshwater

Reefs wants us to relay readings as nh3, which at .25= .02 ish

And on any ammonia chart, is. 02 lethal in reefing? Nope its healthy
That's why fish are always alive and fine right when the tests seem to indicate a stall

This cycle is done right now fritz carries fish the same day its added as mentioned above. Fritz handled the ammonia load in the first two hours. Where api is wrong compared to digital tests is api takes days in lag time to show the drop a digital meter shows in two hours.
 
I like to watch everyone's collective input just to see how the tide of cycle stop date calling is evolving in the hobby. My input is this: when ammonia drops in a cycle, it rapidly falls to safe levels relative to the surface area in a given system, which we all overdo. There isn't a display reef cycling anywhere on the internet that is low on surface area, we're all copying each other in ratio and that's why anytime someone adds fish to these cycles, the fish live.


Chemistry bros educated me on api test read issues: the reason cycled tanks tend to read .25 and not zero is because reef tanks don't run zero ammonia, they run a constant low level since ammonia production from respiring organisms doesn't stop 24x7

Api needs converted into nh3 per the directions before relaying to us as an ammonia level
Everyone skips that part and relays to us the nh4 reading, which is for freshwater

Reefs wants us to relay readings as nh3, which at .25= .02 ish

And on any ammonia chart, is. 02 lethal in reefing? Nope its healthy
That's why fish are always alive and fine right when the tests seem to indicate a stall

This cycle is done right now fritz carries fish the same day its added as mentioned above. Fritz handled the ammonia load in the first two hours. Where api is wrong compared to digital tests is api takes days in lag time to show the drop a digital meter shows in two hours.
Right now my tests come back as ammonia at .25ppm

General hardness is 180ppm
Carbonate hardness is between 120-180
My PH seems a bit low right beneath 8
Nitrite looks like it's at 3 ppm
And nitrate look at 20ppm

At this point I assume my cycle is done, but I'm not 100%.
 
Right now my tests come back as ammonia at .25ppm

General hardness is 180ppm
Carbonate hardness is between 120-180
My PH seems a bit low right beneath 8
Nitrite looks like it's at 3 ppm
And nitrate look at 20ppm

At this point I assume my cycle is done, but I'm not 100%.
Yup, do a water change and get a fish or 2
 
100% certain all set and ready good call team.
 
Can't accurately test nitrate in the presence of nitrite. Stop testing for nitrate until your nitrite bottoms out.
 
Any idea what percentage water change I should do? Is 25% enough for a 13gallon tank?
Nows the best time to get your nitrate in order since there's no fish or coral. With a tank that small I would do at least 50 or 75%
 
Don’t mean to high jack this but y’all said API kits arnt accurate on ammonia?
I’m using ammonia API drop test and been on 1ppm for 3 days. Using bacteria starter also.
what test kit do you suggest using?
 
Gadbery you don't need to worry about testing do this: put in one ground up pinch of fish food into the tank, let this stew until the 25th and your cycle is done no testing needed. Do a water change to begin with clean water

Testless cycling uses calculated # of days wait time for buildup vs testing options, those take longer anyway. This way is accurate and faster
 
Gadbery you don't need to worry about testing do this: put in one ground up pinch of fish food into the tank, let this stew until the 25th and your cycle is done no testing needed. Do a water change to begin with clean water

Testless cycling uses calculated # of days wait time for buildup vs testing options, those take longer anyway. This way is accurate and faster
Gotcha. I have been dosing ammonia and used Dr Tim’s starter. I think I read elsewhere from you that if using a bacteria starter like that your basically good to go with fish (though obviously QT fish should be used)
 
Hey I was at aquashella Dallas in 2018, they had a Fritz bottle bac demo of a single ten gallon tank with no rock carrying fifteen clownfish just fine, started day one of the convention. At the end of the convention they disassembled and took the fish + display home, I’ve seen that in action before agreed. Waiting ten days gives all that extra padding time for worst case issue, a half dead bottle of bac etc


if someone puts fifteen clownfish in an empty ten gallon tank with no bottle bac, they’re dead overnite.
 

IF YOU HAD TO TAKE A REEFING EXAM, WOULD YOU PASS?

  • Yes!

    Votes: 32 45.7%
  • Not yet, but I have one that I want to buy in mind!

    Votes: 9 12.9%
  • No.

    Votes: 26 37.1%
  • Other (please explain).

    Votes: 3 4.3%
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