B-ridge
Valuable Member
What’s your opinions?
Need your help identifying correctly
- Thread starter B-ridge
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What’s your opinions?
ihavecrabs
2500 Club Member
I don't think it is dinos.. Looks like turf algae being limited by 0 Phosphates or Nitrates (giving a dingy green / brown look).
Manually removal, CUC right sizing, and getting phosphates and nitrates balanced is what I would recommend to battle it.
Manually removal, CUC right sizing, and getting phosphates and nitrates balanced is what I would recommend to battle it.
B-ridge
Valuable Member
I am having issues keeping po4 above 0. Nitrates are steady around 25
Had plenty of snails but I see there dying one by one. 2 fighting conchs doing well though. Was told that’s a clear tell sign of dinos also. I dosed fritzyme a whole gallon. Just finished 72 hour blackout. Added some chaeto to see if that helps
Had plenty of snails but I see there dying one by one. 2 fighting conchs doing well though. Was told that’s a clear tell sign of dinos also. I dosed fritzyme a whole gallon. Just finished 72 hour blackout. Added some chaeto to see if that helps
Porpoise Hork
Well-Known Member
The phosphates staying at 0 may be a false reading, or it is below the detection level for your specific test kit. If possible get an ultra low range test kit, because you're looking to stay in the .003 to .010 range. Many kits like API will give a zero detection reading if your level is below 5 on their scale. Once you have been able to verify the actual phosphate level you can go about addressing it if it is in fact zero. First thing to consider if you get a zero reading is that the various algae types in the tank are using it faster than it being put in the tank. Once you get the nuisance algae removed you should see it start to climb a little bit. If it does not you can dose the tank with something like Aquavitro Activate for planted tanks. It's highly concentrated phosphorus and a tiny little bit goes a looooong way with the stuff. It's something like 5ml for 250g to raise it .15 ppm or something crazy like that. So depending on the size of your tank it may only take .5ml to get a register able level on your kit. A word of caution with dosing phosphate, go slow with it. Dose at most 1/2 the amount you need and repeat every few days to avoid an algae bloom.
B-ridge
Valuable Member
I’m using the Hanna phosphate checker. I checked po4 yesterday and got a reading of 0.17. 2-3 days prior it was 0. I just finished 72 hour blackout but the dinos are still there. Added chaeto to try and outcompete it. Just added the chaeto a week ago but with the black out it wasn’t getting any light. Lights all back on now. I’m gonna attempt to manually remove all that I can today. Gonna be a long and tedious task. The way this stuff sticks/binds to sand is crazy
Porpoise Hork
Well-Known Member
You can also read up on this thread about treating GHA (turf algae) with fluconazole.
https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/bryopsis-cure-my-battle-with-bryopsis-using-fluconazole.285096/
I have done it a couple times and it works like a charm. Just know that unless you fix the underlying issue that caused the GHA outbreak in the first place, it will likely come back.
https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/bryopsis-cure-my-battle-with-bryopsis-using-fluconazole.285096/
I have done it a couple times and it works like a charm. Just know that unless you fix the underlying issue that caused the GHA outbreak in the first place, it will likely come back.
B-ridge
Valuable Member
I treated the tank with flucanozole before. It worked really well. I thought it was completely eradicated. More than likely if it’s back or whatever it is it came from a coral I recently purchased. Can’t remember which one or where I got it from but I didn’t/don’t dip and that’s when I noticed these issues. But I’m sure majority of problems is the 0 po4 if that’s even true reading
