something terbel is happing i dont know what 120g with 30gsump temp 73 sal 22 amon 0 nitrite0 nitrate under 10 got some new seahorses Regetting did not quarintine they were captive breed) then found out one was suffering from tail rot qted her and treating 3 day ago i lost one in the maun tank (which I am orally treating as directed by ocen ryder) now another little one was eatting and fine yesterday and came home to her laying on the bootom there are 6 more in the tank oh god i cant loose them help what do i do i am doing 3 water changes a week of 10% vaccuming the bottom 3 times a day after everymeal please i need to save them
oh god please help
- Thread starter mere
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Let's see some pics please.
What is the salinity again please ?
Do you have a UV on the tank?
And don't panick. Well work it out.
#reefsquad who's the sea horse expert ?
What is the salinity again please ?
Do you have a UV on the tank?
And don't panick. Well work it out.
#reefsquad who's the sea horse expert ?
JaimeAdams
2500 Club Member
What does @vlangel think?
thank you for responding i dont have pic they look totaly healthy the little one with tail rot (which came in with this from the fish store as she was not using her tail when she arived bbut i did not find out what was wronge till two days late i am new and had to read about it) is doing great using her hole tail now has been in treatment 2 weeks and lilly was the one laying on the bottom tonight i looked her over with a mahnafing glass and found nothing my temp is 73 salenity 1.022 all reg water par in check i phoned seahorse source in a panic and he said to put all horses in fuan 2 he thinks that the others are sick just not sympomatic (i am praying they will be ok) i dont know what to do about the main tank is it contaminated there is pipe fish and a fire fish in there i dont know what else to do i dont want my babies to die thank you again
Don't sweat it hard.
I would look into UV with sea hoses for a number of reasons.
Also use caution when sand cleaning and go slow. The dust can be problematic.
Let's see if we can get some more experience In Here
I would look into UV with sea hoses for a number of reasons.
Also use caution when sand cleaning and go slow. The dust can be problematic.
Let's see if we can get some more experience In Here
No. I think you are fine. You may be able to do less.
I though you may have sand. So your probably ok.
No problem.
What type of tank is it? Aio , bio cube ? Etc.
You may want to look into purigen as well to run. Or a reactor with carbon/floss to help keep the water clear.
As far as treatment I'm at a loss. I'd guess it's just the one pony and you could be just fine with them. It's hard to know if it's just the one that may have already had problembs.
I dont know what brand but its a standerard 120 rectangal with two black boxes down the back of the tank that goes into a rubermaid 40g sump what is purigen and how do you use it i have carbon infront of the return pump sorry am new to this and dont know all the tect terms
It's ok.
It works like carbon. A bit differently. But youre on the right track.
Annette Garcia
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Do you have a protein skimmer on your tank? If so how many gallons is it rated for? With seahorses you need a skimmer rated at least 3 times bigger.
vlangel
Seahorse whisperer
Hi mere, yes I agree with Annette. An oversized protein skimmer is important. I would choose a protein skimmer over a UV sterilizer.
Also make sure that excess food and debris are not being trapped somewhere. I use a turkey baster to blow off all my rockwork and make sure nothing is laying under the coral or in the macro algae.
Do you have an open airline in the tank to agitate the surface? Seahorses require very good aeration for gas exchange. A simple air pump with airline tubing in the tank will provide the necessary aeration and surface agitation for gas exchange.
Other than stepping up with husbandry (cleaning the tank) extra well, I personally would not treat the tank with anything. Any seahorses that appear sick should be removed and treated separately in a quarantined system. I have even used a clean 5 gallon salt bucket with newly made saltwater and an open airline. I place an artificial plant or fake coral for the seahorse to hitch to and I feed gut loaded artemia along with medication in the saltwater.
Every tank is unique depending on how much the seahorses eat, how much they waste. It sounds like you are on the right track with cleaning up after every meal and doing a total of 30% water changes a week but double check everything. Maybe food and debris is being trapped in the sump somewhere. I clean my sump several times a year since I don't use filter socks. I turn off the return pump and syphon all the water and accumulated debris out and then refill with clean salt water. Good luck to you.
Also make sure that excess food and debris are not being trapped somewhere. I use a turkey baster to blow off all my rockwork and make sure nothing is laying under the coral or in the macro algae.
Do you have an open airline in the tank to agitate the surface? Seahorses require very good aeration for gas exchange. A simple air pump with airline tubing in the tank will provide the necessary aeration and surface agitation for gas exchange.
Other than stepping up with husbandry (cleaning the tank) extra well, I personally would not treat the tank with anything. Any seahorses that appear sick should be removed and treated separately in a quarantined system. I have even used a clean 5 gallon salt bucket with newly made saltwater and an open airline. I place an artificial plant or fake coral for the seahorse to hitch to and I feed gut loaded artemia along with medication in the saltwater.
Every tank is unique depending on how much the seahorses eat, how much they waste. It sounds like you are on the right track with cleaning up after every meal and doing a total of 30% water changes a week but double check everything. Maybe food and debris is being trapped in the sump somewhere. I clean my sump several times a year since I don't use filter socks. I turn off the return pump and syphon all the water and accumulated debris out and then refill with clean salt water. Good luck to you.
The UV breaks down organics and kills viruses and loweres bacteria population in the water colum so they can be skimmed more efficiently.
thank you i dont have aair line in the main tank i have apower head rippleing the surface but i will add a air line i do use a filter sock but i will re check tank and sump for debris and move thing around to make sure nothing is trapped i was blowing off rocks with every water change % times a week) but i will re check and mabye have to upgrade the skimmer thank you so much
rayjay
Well-Known Member
Unfortunately, a UV is ONLY good for pelagic type pathogens as the benthic ones remain on the surfaces of the tank and everything in it.
As most nasty bacteria (like the vibrios for instance) are benthic, the UV is somewhat limited in what it is able to accomplish.
I agree that a better choice to start with is a MUCH oversized skimmer. That skimmer, coupled with due diligence to water change times and volumes, as well as VERY frequent cleaning of socks and other mechanical filtration that traps crap, go a long way to help prevent this again in the future, but also to correct for what may have happened in the past.
All that being said, I find that often it is problematic with many people advising on how to treat a specific problem as so many people have differing opinions.
Our seahorses would, IMO, be best served by choosing the person we have the most trust in for problem solving, and stick with that.
I've been in the hobby since 2003 and I know of NO one I trust more than Dan Underwood of seahorsesource.com to the point that if he recommended something other than what my thoughts were for a problem, I'd go with his.
