Problems with ph and dKH

[Gaines69]

They didn’t all die at once. Just over the 8 months I didn’t have my tank. Live rock was transported in 5 gal buckets of tank water. It was all moved and sat back up within a hour. I think it was mostly because tap water was the only water used for top off and tank was way over fed. Maintenance was not what it should have been but now that it’s back home with me I’m making sure it’s done. Everyone left seems to be doing good. Eating like little pigs. Last water test ammonia and nitrites were both zero but nitrates were still high. PO4and dKH are high as well. Keeping my fingers crossed that the tank settles back down soon. Thanks for all of the advise.

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley Verified Community Expert]

It’s cut to fit and I can get 4 out of it much cheaper than the filter pads that are made for my filter I’m getting ready to do my water change now water has been mixing for almost 24 hours how long after water change should I retest?

Bear in mind that filter is not a nitrate binding filter. It binds organic particulates that may otherwise breakdown and release some N and P.

If you want to know the effect of a water change, a few hours later will ensure good mixing.

 

[Gaines69]

Ugh. dKH is still 16, NO3 is 80ppm, PO4 is .50 ppm and now nitrites are 40. Ammonia is zero, calcium is 480-500, and PH is 7.4. I did a 15% water change yesterday and used distilled water. Why are my levels so off? This is so frustrating. One a good note, Violet, my purple sea whip, looks really good. All polyps are extended more than they were before the water change. Water is crystal clear and clowns are acting normal. Wonder if I should remove the bio wheels from my filter and clean them? I just don’t know what to do. Ugh

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley Verified Community Expert]

I would try measuring the alkalinity in the water you use for water changes and top off.

 

[Gaines69]

Last weeks water change was made with water I picked up from a water station. The 12 step filtered water.
PO4. .25
DKH. 1
NO3. 0 ppm
NO2. 0 ppm
PH. 7.0

Yesterday’s water change was done with distilled water
PO4 0
DKH ( alk) 0
NO2. 0
NO3. 0
PH <7.0
Is there another way of taking care of PO4, NO2, NO3, etc besides water changes. Calcium and salinity are staying pretty stable and I’m wanting to keep my critters and my one coral healthy and happy. Thank you again for all your suggestions and help. I truly appreciate it.

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley Verified Community Expert]

I'd stop using the water station water. It is not suitable. The alkalinity should stabilize and hopefully decline if you stop using it.

There are lots of ways to reduce nitrate and phosphate.

Growing macroalgae is one good method:

Phosphate In The Reef Aquarium
https://www.reef2reef.com/blog/?p=3184

Nitrate in the Reef Aquarium - REEFEDITION
https://www.reef2reef.com/blog/nitrate-in-the-reef-aquarium

 

[Gaines69]

I’m getting ready to add my HOB refugium back onto my tank. It’s not the best looking thing but it works. Working on attaching a submersible pump onto it so it has better flow. The air pump just doesn’t move enough water. Would it be possible to attach tank to a sump by hooking it up like a canister filter. That way I wouldn’t have to drill the tank. Guess it’s time to start more researching. Thanks again

 

[Hockeypunk1]

Now that you have coral you don't want to dkh to drop too fast. Keep using the distilled water making small frequent water changes. The good news is your tank isn't being overrun by algae so the nutrient numbers aren't a huge concern. Canister filters aren't suitable for reef tanks. You can buy hang on overflows also you can diy an overflow using pvc. Just google how to diy an overflow. The king of diy on youtube has a good design for a pvc overflow. The problem with the diy is when the power goes out you risk flooding your tank. Adding the hob refugium is a good idea. You can pick up some chaetomorpha macro algae from a lfs and put a white light over it in the hob and it will consume no3 and po4 as it grows.

Nothing really absorbs nitrate. Carbon dosing works well but you need a skimmer. Gfo is a good phosphate media but I have had it strip my tank and kill my coral. Chemipure blue might be a good product for you to try to absorb po4 and clarify your water. I honestly wouldn't recommend doing anything more than the water changes and hob refugium at the moment. It will work just be patient and stay consistent with the water changes

 

[Gaines69]

Now that you have coral you don't want to dkh to drop too fast. Keep using the distilled water making small frequent water changes. The good news is your tank isn't being overrun by algae so the nutrient numbers aren't a huge concern. Canister filters aren't suitable for reef tanks. You can buy hang on overflows also you can diy an overflow using pvc. Just google how to diy an overflow. The king of diy on youtube has a good design for a pvc overflow. The problem with the diy is when the power goes out you risk flooding your tank. Adding the hob refugium is a good idea. You can pick up some chaetomorpha macro algae from a lfs and put a white light over it in the hob and it will consume no3 and po4 as it grows.

Nothing really absorbs nitrate. Carbon dosing works well but you need a skimmer. Gfo is a good phosphate media but I have had it strip my tank and kill my coral. Chemipure blue might be a good product for you to try to absorb po4 and clarify your water. I honestly wouldn't recommend doing anything more than the water changes and hob refugium at the moment. It will work just be patient and stay consistent with the water changes

Ok. Sounds like a good idea. I can’t afford to overflow my tank etc. I live in an apartment on the 3 rd floor. I will hook up the HOB refugium on Thursday after aquarium silicone has time to cure. I’ll keep up the small water changes once a week and see how things go.thanks

 

[Gaines69]

So NO3 and phosphates are still high. I have done two water changes and levels really haven’t come down. I went ahead and removed the bio wheels on my hob filter to see if that helps with the NO3. I tested on Sunday and here are the results
Salinity. 1.022-1.023
Phosphates. .25-..50 ppm
dKH. 15
NO3. 160 ppm
Calcium. 480
PH 8.4
NO2. 0
Ammonia. 0

I’m getting ready to do another water change with distilled water. ( bottle said reverse osmosis and steamed distilled for purity). My question is should I siphon the sand? I have a great cuc and my sand looks great. I don’t want to completely destroy my micro fauna etc but I need to lower phosphates and NO3. I’m getting really frustrated and want to get levels under control before I add more stock to my tank. Was even thinking about adding a couple of easy and cheap beginners coral to go along with my sea whip. I have a few pieces of live rock that have a lot of green algae on them. Should I remove and scrub the algae off and put them back in? I just need ideas. I’m on a tight budget right now so anything that I can DIY would be great.
Thanks

 

[Gaines69]

UGGGGG
Ok. This is getting super frustrating. I have done three 5 gal water changes in three weeks and levels haven’t really changed. I did a 5 gal water change yesterday and tested this morning before feeding.
Salinity. 1.024 - 1.025
PO4. .25 - .50
dKH. 15
NO3. 80-160 ppm
Calcium. 500
Ammonia. 0

I started a small HOB refugium with cheato and live rock rubble yesterday. I will be changing out filter media today. I just do t know what else to do. Should I do bigger water changes? Is 15% weekly not enough? Should I put bio wheels back on? I just don’t know what else to do.

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley Verified Community Expert]

A 20% water change isn’t going to cause a drop in nutrients that is reliably detectable with a kit. A factor of two is about the limit with most nitrate kits, and even a 100% change won’t drop phosphate to zero due to rock binding of phosphate.

 

[Gaines69]

Should I up the amount of water changed or just keep doing the amount I’m doing now weekly? I know a skimmer would help but with the tank being small and a cube there just isn’t room. That’s why I’m toying with the idea of a diy sump/ refugium. Wonder if another bottle of live bacteria would help. So far everyone is healthy ( from what I can tell) but I want the tank in great condition before I add anymore stock.

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley Verified Community Expert]

If the kit is working, it's certainly useful to keep doing it. Just don't expect big drops with each change.

 

[Gaines69]

If the kit is working, it's certainly useful to keep doing it. Just don't expect big drops with each change.

Oh ok. Thank you. If I add a protein skimmer to my tank can I get rid of the HOB filter? With this being a cube the filter takes up the entire back of the tank leaving no room to hang anything.

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley Verified Community Expert]

Oh ok. Thank you. If I add a protein skimmer to my tank can I get rid of the HOB filter? With this being a cube the filter takes up the entire back of the tank leaving no room to hang anything.

What is in this filter now?

 

[Gaines69]

Carbon in a filter bag, nitrate cut to fit filter media pad x 2, Purigen bag x 2, and one filter cartridge that is made for the bio wheel HOB filter. I did remove the bio wheels and have them floating in my copepod tank.