QT help! Please

melypr1985 · Oct 9, 2015

Stress coat is essentially the same as prime. It's going to make the copper toxic. I wouldn't risk it at all, especially after going through all this to get the fish better. Oh, make sure you get a test kit for the copper so you can make sure it's at therapeutic levels.

merlberg · Oct 9, 2015

Ok i see and yes i have to get the test kit today. Thanks

Humblefish · Oct 9, 2015

melypr1985 said:
Stress coat is essentially the same as prime. It's going to make the copper toxic. I wouldn't risk it at all, especially after going through all this to get the fish better. Oh, make sure you get a test kit for the copper so you can make sure it's at therapeutic levels.

+1 to the above.

What brand of copper will you be using? If Cupramine, get a Salifert or Seachem copper test kit. But if you are going to use chelated copper (exs. Coppersafe, Copper Power) then you need to use the API copper test kit.

merlberg · Oct 9, 2015

Humblefish said:
+1 to the above.

What brand of copper will you be using? If Cupramine, get a Salifert or Seachem copper test kit. But if you are going to use chelated copper (exs. Coppersafe, Copper Power) then you need to use the API copper test kit.

Which one is better or are both pretty much the same?

Humblefish · Oct 9, 2015

merlberg said:
Which one is better or are both pretty much the same?

They both work the same. Cupramine is "ionic" copper, and conventional wisdom says it is safer/gentler to use on the fish as it works at lower concentrations. But then I read about all these people saying their fish won't eat/dies in Cupramine. However, I've personally used it in the past and had no such problems.

Chelated copper is old school, so that's what I have the most experience using (specifically Coppersafe.) It has always worked well for me in the past. I used to do aquarium maintenance and we would treat thousands of $$$s worth of fish at a time using it, no problems. I never understood the need to upgrade to something better. If it works, don't try to fix it is my motto.

merlberg · Oct 9, 2015

Humblefish said:
They both work the same. Cupramine is "ionic" copper, and conventional wisdom says it is safer/gentler to use on the fish as it works at lower concentrations. But then I read about all these people saying their fish won't eat/dies in Cupramine. However, I've personally used it in the past and had no such problems.

Chelated copper is old school, so that's what I have the most experience using (specifically Coppersafe.) It has always worked well for me in the past. I used to do aquarium maintenance and we would treat thousands of $$$s worth of fish at a time using it, no problems. I never understood the need to upgrade to something better. If it works, don't try to fix it is my motto.

Haha i agree on you with tht lol if it aint broke... Dnt fix it!!!! Ok so i will see if i can get coppersafe and see what happens. Thank you.

merlberg · Oct 9, 2015

So i just tested my qt but havent put any fish in there yet and my ammonia is 0.50 ppm, is that normal and can i still put my fish in there?

Humblefish · Oct 9, 2015

merlberg said:
So i just tested my qt but havent put any fish in there yet and my ammonia is 0.50 ppm, is that normal and can i still put my fish in there?

Is copper already in the water? The presence of copper will give you false positives using most ammonia test kits. You have to use a Seachem ammonia alert badge.

merlberg · Oct 9, 2015

Humblefish said:
Is copper already in the water? The presence of copper will give you false positives using most ammonia test kits. You have to use a Seachem ammonia alert badge.

No copper in the water yet. Yes i ordered the ammonia badge online since i cant use the kit. But can i add the fish yet or do i wait?

merlberg · Oct 9, 2015

And does that mean i cant use the kit at all to test anything since im using copper or will just the ammonia be off using the kit?

melypr1985 · Oct 9, 2015

You need to dilute the ammonia, preferably getting it to 0 to start with before putting them in the QT. I wonder how it got ammonia in it already? It was freshly set up right? With nothing else in there except a heater, filter, power head and pvc hiding places? Brand new made saltwater right?

merlberg · Oct 9, 2015

melypr1985 said:
You need to dilute the ammonia, preferably getting it to 0 to start with before putting them in the QT. I wonder how it got ammonia in it already? It was freshly set up right? With nothing else in there except a heater, filter, power head and pvc hiding places? Brand new made saltwater right?

Yes everything was fresh except the pads i had put in the HOB filter. That was used when i previously quarantined my last fish so i figured it was ok to use. Should i remove it and put new pads in the hob filter?

Humblefish · Oct 9, 2015

I wouldn't add any fish so long as ammonia is present. You can use an ammonia test kit until you add copper. After that, you have to rely solely on the alert badge.

merlberg · Oct 9, 2015

Humblefish said:
I wouldn't add any fish so long as ammonia is present. You can use an ammonia test kit until you add copper. After that, you have to rely solely on the alert badge.

Ok i screwed up by using older pads in the hob filter :/. Do i have to throw all that water away again? Or do i have other options I just made this so much harder for myself.

melypr1985 · Oct 9, 2015

It's going to be ok. Just take this step by step. Make new water (i know it sucks) do a big water change and then retest after a few minutes. Then go from there.

Humblefish · Oct 9, 2015

melypr1985 said:
It's going to be ok. Just take this step by step. Make new water (i know it sucks) do a big water change and then retest after a few minutes. Then go from there.

^^This. And throw out the old pads causing the ammonia.

merlberg · Oct 9, 2015

Wow ok thanks so much... Will change everything :/

Breakthecycle2 · Oct 9, 2015

Merck said:
1KORDON ICH ATTACK IN MAIN TANK (100% NATURAL IN GREEN&WHITE BOTTLE)
2DO A COLD WATER FRESHWATER DIP 60 DEGREES 3TO 5 MINS ON EACH FISH.
3 MARDEL( COPPERSAFE ) IN SPARE TANK & HAVE PRAZIPRO ON HAND.
4 LOWER THERE STREE BY MEDIUM FLOW & HIDING PLACES.
5WATCH TO MAKE SURE THEY ARE EATING ENTICE THEM BY ADDING GARLIC
TO THERE FOOD. HOPE THIS HELPS

I'm not sure if anyone touched on this, but some of the advice you are giving is flat out awful.
1. Ich Attack does NOTHING to help with ICH. It's the proverbial "snake oil".
2. A cold water freshwater dip? You will instantly kill any fish you put in there. You can't take a fish out of a 74+ degree water and put them, not only in freezing cold water, but a freshwater dip? NO.

Merck · Oct 9, 2015

1. DON'T LIKE SNAKES,BUT THANKS FOR LETTING ME KNOW IT'S WORKS ON THEM TO.
2. (YOUTUBE) COLD FRESHWATER DIP ON MARINE FISH. YES THE FISH DON'T LIKE IT & THE ICK DON'T LIKE IT EITHER.

Breakthecycle2 said:
2. A cold water freshwater dip? You will instantly kill any fish you put in there. You can't take a fish out of a 74+ degree water and put them

SO WHEN SALTWATER FISH SWIM UP RIVERS AT HIGHTIDE TO COLDER WATER IN A STREAM THEY DIE OR WHEN YOU ARE IN THE OCEAN AND A COLD CURRENT COMES THREW THEY DIE,
THAT EXPLAINS ALL THE DEAD FISH IN THE GULF OF MEXICO.

Breakthecycle2 · Oct 9, 2015

Merck said:
1. DON'T LIKE SNAKES,BUT THANKS FOR LETTING ME KNOW IT'S WORKS ON THEM TO.
2. (YOUTUBE) COLD FRESHWATER DIP ON MARINE FISH. YES THE FISH DON'T LIKE IT & THE ICK DON'T LIKE IT EITHER.

SO WHEN SALTWATER FISH SWIM UP RIVERS AT HIGHTIDE TO COLDER WATER IN A STREAM THEY DIE OR WHEN YOU ARE IN THE OCEAN AND A COLD CURRENT COMES THREW THEY DIE,
THAT EXPLAINS ALL THE DEAD FISH IN THE GULF OF MEXICO.

Tell me what reef fish swim into freshwater?