Reducing nitrates and phosphates

[Jen1234]

I have purchased an already established reef tank. I haven't lost any thing live but I'm determined to get the parameters stable so everything is growing and as healthy as possible. On setting up the tank in my home 2 weeks ago 75 litres of salt water was added and since then another 25 litre change last weekend.
These were my parameters last night:

250 litre total water volume.
V2 Iluminair 900 running a preset program.

Sg 1.025
Ammonia 0
Phosphate 0.4
Kh 7
Nitrate 80
Ph 8.3
Calcium 460
Mg 1480
Nitrite 0

I have received advice from different local fish shops with regards to lowering nitrates and phosphates. I was advised to dose with Bioptim and Biodigest which I did (skimmer off for an hour). I have set up a miracle mud and chaeto area (cheato is growing). Then I was advised to set up a phosban reactor, which I did! Then someone else said I shouldn't run the reactor while the prodibo is trying to establish because the water needs phosphates for it to work!
Basically, Im a bit confused now to know what to do.!!! Also one more question if I place a polishing pad (filter pad) between the refugium and the return pump will the good work that the refugium is doing still pass through to the main tank? I could remove this but it is picking up discoloration even after 2 days!

I have posted pics of the tank and sump if that helps.

I want to help my carpet anenome regain its colour.

Many thanks to the knowledgeable people in advance!

 

[landlubber]

I would probably take the nitrate down with a couple of marine pure blocks in the sump and work on the phosphate slowly with gfo either in a bag or a reactor if you have one. once things stabilize you should see improvements but I wouldn't big changes for a couple of months.
do your best to implement the changes slowly so you don't disrupt things any more than you have to.
to be honest, I expected it to appear a lot worse. my hair algae was hideous when my phosphates were over .20 let alone the .40 you're dealing with.
last thing, you no longer have to measure ammonia or nitrite if your tank is cycled

 

[reacclimating 2 the hobby]

Your refugium will help keep the nutrients in check on it's own. If the chaeto is growing and everything in your tank looks healthy, i'd let it run it's course. If you find that the numbers begin to increase then I'd look into the reactor or NoPoX

 

[Js.Aqua.Project]

Doing a 20% water change with quality/clean saltwater mixed from RODI water will lower it, as well as the methods you described above.

I personally use NoPox to manage NO3 and PO4, adding Phosguard if I get a spike.

Just remember nothing good in this hobby comes fast, so don't try to rush and drop it over night.

 

[Jen1234]

I would probably take the nitrate down with a couple of marine pure blocks in the sump and work on the phosphate slowly with gfo either in a bag or a reactor if you have one. once things stabilize you should see improvements but I wouldn't big changes for a couple of months.
do your best to implement the changes slowly so you don't disrupt things any more than you have to.
to be honest, I expected it to appear a lot worse. my hair algae was hideous when my phosphates were over .20 let alone the .40 you're dealing with.
last thing, you no longer have to measure ammonia or nitrite if your tank is cycled

Thank you for your advice, I'll try the marine blocks if my numbers start going the wrong way. And, thanks for the info on ammonia and nitrite. 2 less tests sounds good to me [emoji3]

 

[Jen1234]

Your refugium will help keep the nutrients in check on it's own. If the chaeto is growing and everything in your tank looks healthy, i'd let it run it's course. If you find that the numbers begin to increase then I'd look into the reactor or NoPoX

Thank you. Do you think I should remove the reactor from the sump or let it sit in there. Didn't know if the water in it would stagnate!

 

[Jen1234]

Doing a 20% water change with quality/clean saltwater mixed from RODI water will lower it, as well as the methods you described above.

I personally use NoPox to manage NO3 and PO4, adding Phosguard if I get a spike.

Just remember nothing good in this hobby comes fast, so don't try to rush and drop it over night.

Yes, you're right I'm learning that fast. It's a patience game [emoji4] thank you

 

[miPapareef]

Remember slow and steady wins. Your tank looks great and the numbers you are reporting are not an issue for any of the livestock.

The tank has already undergone a big change and I wouldn’t chase a number or add/remove any more changes. I would just test and look for trends, I bet that tank is mature enough to just stabilize on its own.

 

[Jen1234]

Remember slow and steady wins. Your tank looks great and the numbers you are reporting are not an issue for any of the livestock.

The tank has already undergone a big change and I wouldn’t chase a number or add/remove any more changes. I would just test and look for trends, I bet that tank is mature enough to just stabilize on its own.

Thank you so much. I wonder if you were me, would you remove the reactor with the phosban in? It's been turned off but is holding full water. Will it stagnate?

 

[Flippers4pups]

Thank you so much. I wonder if you were me, would you remove the reactor with the phosban in? It's been turned off but is holding full water. Will it stagnate?

If no water is running through it, yes it will stagnate.

If you were running enough bio pellets in the reactor, it should reduce the N03. It takes a couple of weeks for the bacteria colonies to get established before you see any reduction.

Let's talk about your N03 test kit. What brand is it? What's it's expiration date?

Same for P04^.

 

[Dr. Dendrostein]

I have purchased an already established reef tank. I haven't lost any thing live but I'm determined to get the parameters stable so everything is growing and as healthy as possible. On setting up the tank in my home 2 weeks ago 75 litres of salt water was added and since then another 25 litre change last weekend.
These were my parameters last night:

250 litre total water volume.
V2 Iluminair 900 running a preset program.

Sg 1.025
Ammonia 0
Phosphate 0.4
Kh 7
Nitrate 80
Ph 8.3
Calcium 460
Mg 1480
Nitrite 0

I have received advice from different local fish shops with regards to lowering nitrates and phosphates. I was advised to dose with Bioptim and Biodigest which I did (skimmer off for an hour). I have set up a miracle mud and chaeto area (cheato is growing). Then I was advised to set up a phosban reactor, which I did! Then someone else said I shouldn't run the reactor while the prodibo is trying to establish because the water needs phosphates for it to work!
Basically, Im a bit confused now to know what to do.!!! Also one more question if I place a polishing pad (filter pad) between the refugium and the return pump will the good work that the refugium is doing still pass through to the main tank? I could remove this but it is picking up discoloration even after 2 days!

I have posted pics of the tank and sump if that helps.

I want to help my carpet anenome regain its colour.

Many thanks to the knowledgeable people in advance!

So cool

 

[ReeferBean]

You can also try the Brightwell N03 and/or Exxodus Bricks. I'm using both currently.

 

[Jen1234]

If no water is running through it, yes it will stagnate.

If you were running enough bio pellets in the reactor, it should reduce the N03. It takes a couple of weeks for the bacteria colonies to get established before you see any reduction.

Let's talk about your N03 test kit. What brand is it? What's it's expiration date?

Same for P04^.

I purchased a red sea foundation pro multi test kit for .ca, kh and mg exp. Dates 09 20.
Also purchased red sea marine care multi test kit for nh3/nh4 no3 no2 ph kh exp date 06 20.
Po4 purchased separately red sea exp. 12 19.

I've also got a new Milwaukee ph metre.

I have only dosed bioptim and Biodigest once, the next dose is due on 24th Oct. Maybe I'm being impatient but it's because I can see new algae growth green and red growing everyday.

Thanks for your help.

 

[saltyfilmfolks]

All the info in you’re first post is pretty good.

Here’s the thing , it takes time to see the results. Most al the following info is good too, but accomplishes the same thing , re marine pure blocks. That the same as the miracle mud.

Look at the tank the same way you do a garden. You can add and spend al you want , but it still takes time to bloom.

 

[Jen1234]

Just showing this new red patch.

Okay, I'm not going to rush it eveyone! I will stop worrying and try to get a good night's sleep! [emoji4] [emoji4]

 

[IslandLifeReef]

Welcome to R2R. Like @saltyfilmfolks said, all of the advice is good and some of it is redundant to what you already have done. As others have said, time is your best weapon.

 

[Mikedawg]

Just showing this new red patch.

Okay, I'm not going to rush it eveyone! I will stop worrying and try to get a good night's sleep!

Yep, your tank is "new" in many ways and has not had time to stabilize; you'll get some of the uglies. Give it a chance to mature some before you begin chasing numbers spending a lot of money and adding many different chemicals. I'm betting that with good husbandry and the live rock you have, your nitrates will go down "naturally" in a few weeks. Good luck

 

[Jen1234]

Yep, your tank is "new" in many ways and has not had time to stabilize; you'll get some of the uglies. Give it a chance to mature some before you begin chasing numbers spending a lot of money and adding many different chemicals. I'm betting that with good husbandry and the live rock you have, your nitrates will go down "naturally" in a few weeks. Good luck

Thank you Mike

 

[ReeferBean]

Add some more snails.

 

[Lloyd Williams]

That red patch kinda looks like coralline algae. That’s the pretty stuff imho. People add products such as PurpleUp for that. The green pain next to it will wither away in time. But you can help it along with cuc, herbivores, and picking it yourself.