RO/DI Question

member 99594 · Jun 23, 2020

noahcw said:
A booster pump doesn't look super realistic as I don't have it in a a permanent set up.

I had mine just resting on the laundry sink for the longest time. I just plug it in when I need it.

noahcw · Jun 23, 2020

Calli said:
I had mine just resting on the laundry sink for the longest time. I just plug it in when I need it.

Your booster pump or rodi?

member 99594 · Jun 23, 2020

noahcw said:
Your booster pump or rodi?

Booster pump.

Opus · Jun 24, 2020

First there is something wrong with your DI. You said it was new but you were still getting a tds reading. With your 6tds after the membrane, your DI should make around 750 gallons of 0 tds water. Couple of things to check. First, and I hate to admit it but I've done this before, make sure the cartridge isn't installed upside down. There is probably an arrow on the side showing which way is up. Also, there should be a foam ring that fits on top of the DI resin before you screw the top on the catridge. Also make sure you have the black ring on the top of the cartridge. Also check your DI canister and make sure you have the line from the RO membrane going to the "in" side of the canister. I believe most are labeled with the in and out on the lid.

As for your membrane, it is probably shot. Most membranes today will reject around 98% and you are below 90 right now. You can take the membrane out and reseat it just to make sure that isn't the issue. Could be it is just old and used up or maybe chlorine got to it. My tap tds is 450 and my tds after my membrane is 4 so I'm at 99%+ rejection rate. I'm using a spectrapure membrane.

Now my little "rant". Flushing the RO membrane does nothing from what I've learned from water guru's, at least not at on our consumer level units. Just not enough pressure. I see all these companies now pushing it but I have yet to see any proof that it actually works. My RO unit is 25 years old and I'm on my 5th ro membrane. Unless flushing adds an extra year to my unit, I really don't see that big of a benefit from the time and water wasted.

Opus · Jun 24, 2020

noahcw said:
A booster pump doesn't look super realistic as I don't have it in a a permanent set up.

I've seen a couple of setups where people have made a homemade dolly and attached everything to it. They wheel it to their hookup when they need to make water and then wheel it back to where ever they store it when done.

KStatefan · Jun 24, 2020

Opus said:
Now my little "rant". Flushing the RO membrane does nothing from what I've learned from water guru's, at least not at on our consumer level units. Just not enough pressure. I see all these companies now pushing it but I have yet to see any proof that it actually works. My RO unit is 25 years old and I'm on my 5th ro membrane. Unless flushing adds an extra year to my unit, I really don't see that big of a benefit from the time and water wasted.

I have always wondered which companies marketing department started that. I think now everybody has one available.

noahcw · Jun 24, 2020

Opus said:
First there is something wrong with your DI. You said it was new but you were still getting a tds reading. With your 6tds after the membrane, your DI should make around 750 gallons of 0 tds water. Couple of things to check. First, and I hate to admit it but I've done this before, make sure the cartridge isn't installed upside down. There is probably an arrow on the side showing which way is up. Also, there should be a foam ring that fits on top of the DI resin before you screw the top on the catridge. Also make sure you have the black ring on the top of the cartridge. Also check your DI canister and make sure you have the line from the RO membrane going to the "in" side of the canister. I believe most are labeled with the in and out on the lid.

As for your membrane, it is probably shot. Most membranes today will reject around 98% and you are below 90 right now. You can take the membrane out and reseat it just to make sure that isn't the issue. Could be it is just old and used up or maybe chlorine got to it. My tap tds is 450 and my tds after my membrane is 4 so I'm at 99%+ rejection rate. I'm using a spectrapure membrane.

Now my little "rant". Flushing the RO membrane does nothing from what I've learned from water guru's, at least not at on our consumer level units. Just not enough pressure. I see all these companies now pushing it but I have yet to see any proof that it actually works. My RO unit is 25 years old and I'm on my 5th ro membrane. Unless flushing adds an extra year to my unit, I really don't see that big of a benefit from the time and water wasted.

I've reseated both the di, and the Ro membrane and I'm getting 0 now, but I'm going to keep a close eye on it, Thank you!

Opus · Jun 24, 2020

noahcw said:
I've reseated both the di, and the Ro membrane and I'm getting 0 now, but I'm going to keep a close eye on it, Thank you!

Great to here that. Do you know if your water has chlorine or chloramines, or are you on well water?

noahcw · Jun 24, 2020

Opus said:
Great to here that. Do you know if your water has chlorine or chloramines, or are you on well water?

It's Chloramines

Opus · Jun 24, 2020

noahcw said:
It's Chloramines

In that case it would probably serve you best to add another carbon block to your setup and/or get a carbon block that is made to remove chloramines. If chloramines make it past your regular carbon filter they will get thru the ro membrane and then your DI has to deal with them. This will use up your DI faster than normal.

noahcw · Jun 24, 2020

Opus said:
In that case it would probably serve you best to add another carbon block to your setup and/or get a carbon block that is made to remove chloramines. If chloramines make it past your regular carbon filter they will get thru the ro membrane and then your DI has to deal with them. This will use up your DI faster than normal.

How exactly do I go about doing that ow what could I look up for more info? Thanks

Opus · Jun 25, 2020

noahcw said:
How exactly do I go about doing that ow what could I look up for more info? Thanks

Do a search for Matrikx ChloraGuard or Pentek ChlorPlus, those are 2 of the name brand chloramine carbon blocks. You could replace your carbon block with either of these or buy another canister and hook this in between the sediment filter and your current carbon block. Basically that turns your current 4 stage unit into a 5 stage unit. That is what I did though I don't have chloramines, I just run 2 carbon blocks since I'm bad about not changing the filters when I should so I want to make sure no chlorine makes it to the ro membrane.