So confused
- Thread starter MapleLeafReefer
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JonEB
Active Member
im gonna take a wild guess that you use a refractometer and its not calibrated... wild guess but hoping its that simple.?
ill even make another assumption and say the salinity is low say between 28-32 ppm? If I get this right I'm gonna play the lotto tomorrow haha.
ill even make another assumption and say the salinity is low say between 28-32 ppm? If I get this right I'm gonna play the lotto tomorrow haha.
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HudsonReefer2.0
Algae Happens
Is the lemon peel going after the lps or zoas?
markwayts
Active Member
If you can't grow a candy cane It's the fish. They are picking on em when you aren't around. MyHello....
I'm a bit confused. I have several softies that thrive in my tank. I have bubble tip anemone that reproduce like crazy....over 20 in the tank. I have the appropriate number of fish, cuc, sump with skimmer, good flow and tank turn over rate. I use crummy lights - current led, but otherwise it's a half decent set up for a newbie. My ammonia is 0 my nitrite is 0 my ph is 8ish my nitrate is a bit high 25-35ppm, my calcium is 470ish, my alkalinity is 8.6, my magnesium is 1450ish....all okay values I think. Do you think I can keep a candycane alive? Nope. An acan? Nope. A zooanthid...haven't tried in awhile but last time...nope. They are all in appropriate flow and light ranges. They are fed with reef roids, but not too much. My clam is happy....
It's such a paradox and I can not figure out what gives. I dont want tonkeep dropping hundreds on corals that die on me and I also do t want to concede. Please help. What am I missing?
damsels are not mean
Valuable Member
Probably the 3 most delicious candy looking angelfish food corals money can buy. I would genuinely be shocked if any angel except a genicanthus wasn't munching on those. The lemonpeel angel probably starts licking their chops as soon as they see the bag with colorful skittles in it!
Dennis Cartier
Valuable Member
Ok, we need more info (as others have mentioned). The big clue for me is the 20 anemones in the tank. Typically anemones split either when they are very happy or mildly stressed. I suspect the latter. Also, being able to keep soft corals suggests a high nutrient environment, perhaps even too 'dirty' for the easier of the hard corals.
So my questions would be, are you measuring your parameters with quality test kits, like say Salifert, or are you using API? A reading on phosphate will help to determine if it is a high nutrient issue. Also how are you measuring salinity and what is your source of water?
The photos you show of the acans and candy cane are of corals that are not happy and open. The question being are they staying closed because of water quality issues or fear of the voracious predator waiting for them to inflate?!
My gut says, most likely a nutrient issue, possibly insufficient lighting and when we have adjusted/ruled those out, we will then have to see if the angel will play nice with LPS or not.
Dennis
So my questions would be, are you measuring your parameters with quality test kits, like say Salifert, or are you using API? A reading on phosphate will help to determine if it is a high nutrient issue. Also how are you measuring salinity and what is your source of water?
The photos you show of the acans and candy cane are of corals that are not happy and open. The question being are they staying closed because of water quality issues or fear of the voracious predator waiting for them to inflate?!
My gut says, most likely a nutrient issue, possibly insufficient lighting and when we have adjusted/ruled those out, we will then have to see if the angel will play nice with LPS or not.
Dennis
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OP
OP
MapleLeafReefer
Community Member
DT is 120g
Filter socks, skimmer, and chaeto.
Yes the lemon peel I'd a picker. I kept the acan isolated for a month or so to no avail....
Likely a 2 part problem 1)picking from fish 2)immature reefer
OP
OP
MapleLeafReefer
Community Member
I do now! Lol
OP
OP
MapleLeafReefer
Community Member
Well shoot.....can't blame her for wanting skittles! Thanks for the education
OP
OP
MapleLeafReefer
Community Member
Thank you for the input.Ok, we need more info (as others have mentioned). The big clue for me is the 20 anemones in the tank. Typically anemones split either when they are very happy or mildly stressed. I suspect the latter. Also, being able to keep soft corals suggests a high nutrient environment, perhaps even too 'dirty' for the easier of the hard corals.
So my questions would be, are you measuring your parameters with quality test kits, like say Salifert, or are you using API? A reading on phosphate will help to determine if it is a high nutrient issue. Also how are you measuring salinity and what is your source of water?
The photos you show of the acans and candy cane are of corals that are not happy and open. The question being are they staying closed because of water quality issues or fear of the voracious predator waiting for them to inflate?!
My gut says, most likely a nutrient issue, possibly insufficient lighting and when we have adjusted/ruled those out, we will then have to see if the angel will play nice with LPS or not.
Dennis
The anemone all look good - bubble tips are bubbly, color is nice, they feed happily. However I have a lot of learning to do so it may very well be that they're unhappy and I just don't know it.
Measuring with salifert test kits. I use RODI water and test it for nitrates and salinity before it goes in the tank. I use a crummy salinity measuring device. One of the "float" style ones.
Seems that the community is in agreement I need a phosphate test kit and I'll throw the other lights on and see what happens.
If phosphate levels are too high how does one reduce the levels? A helpful fellow memento on this thread said water changes don't do too much in that regard....
Lemon peel angels are known for this it’s either the fish or the corals whatever you like more
Dennis Cartier
Valuable Member
Ok, so you are using Salifert, good, and an RODI, good.
You definitely need to find out what our phosphates are. Your nitrate level is probably more irritating to corals, but elevated phosphates brings it's own set of problems. Water changes and more export can help with nitrates. For phosphates, because they bind to calcium carbonate surfaces in your tank (rock/sand), they move very slowly. So trying to reduce them becomes a long fight if you have a big reserve of bound phosphate.
I would suggest abetter method of measuring salinity is in order. I am partial to the Tropic Marin High Precision Hydrometers. They can be a bit more work to use, but I would suggest getting one of those and then you can have it on hand as a means to cross check whatever salinity measurement device you settle on for long term use. They require no calibration and are very accurate.
How long have you had the tank since it was moved/re-assembled?
What softies do you have besides zoas? FTS would be helpful too.
But as some say, it can be the life on the reef. Goodness knows I have tanks that thrive with different animals and cannot handle others.
But as some say, it can be the life on the reef. Goodness knows I have tanks that thrive with different animals and cannot handle others.
Rmckoy
7500 Club Member
So
Imagine ….
Every bit of food added creates nutrients .
feeding multiple anemones and considering their waste expelled is huge ….
nitrates can be exported via water changes if source water has 0ppm and of good quality .
for example . If your nitrates are 50ppm and you do a 10% water change with water known to have zero ppm nitrates
The lowest your nitrates will be after water change is 45ppm 50-10%
as for phosphates . They are a little harder to export .
there is some in the water , but only what’s been released from saturated substrate .
You might think exporting what’s being tested is working . But after water change the rocks , sand etc will release more into the water column .
it has been discussed and explained in other posts on here .
@Randy Holmes-Farley
Typically media such as rowaphos works but attention and a good test kit is needed
Dropping too fast or too low is never good
monkeyCmonkeyDo
7500 Club Member
I would look at adding chemi pure elite, carbon or activated charcoal.
Adding soft coral or some macro algae. Something to soak up any excess nutrients but yes I think an initial wc would be good. I know my tank could use one. Lol.
D
Adding soft coral or some macro algae. Something to soak up any excess nutrients but yes I think an initial wc would be good. I know my tank could use one. Lol.
D
CanuckReefer
Simple...Salt, Water, LR, Lighting and Flow.
Yes indeed! Nailed it down to my Eibli finally, saw it picking away...
KrisReef
10K Club member
If you want to rule out water quality get an ICP test and do a 100% water change. The rule to "change things slowly" intends to protect the delicate (sensitive to water quality) animals. Since you don't have any of those at the moment there is nothing (except water storage space?) to keep you from doing massive water changes with fresh, clean, wonderful, non-"dirty" water to address that issue outright. If the phosphate is high, the rock will leak that back into the clean water pretty rapidly but any method you use going forward will benefit from the removal of the dissolved portion.
Better yet, advertise and sell the whole system to someone who only wants to keep bubble tips and a "Neem-o" and use the cash to start your next bigger-better candy cane tank!
If you weren't confused before with all this help you must be now?
Rmckoy
7500 Club Member
Where are you ?
We are almost at the cut off time for lotto today .
but there is always a option to buy a ticket for next weeks lotto
