Spar's Tank Transfer Method

melypr1985 · Apr 5, 2016

john.m.cole3 said:
Question: I have many other people telling me that ich is present in all marine fish and that there is no cure for it. They say the fish's immune system has to be boosted to suppress it. What are your thoughts on this?

Not true. It may seem that way because most of the fish we receive have it. A good QT process can and will rid your fish of this parasite. It wont get into your system if you correctly QT all things that go into it first.

Humblefish · Apr 5, 2016

In the wild, infection rate is roughly 60-70%. However, being ich only spends 3-7 days on a fish, the fish is able to swim away before being reinfected. Like getting away from mosquitoes.

In the confines of a small aquarium (relative to the vastness of the ocean), escape is not possible. Which is why you need to do everything possible to keep ich out of your aquarium in the first place.

john.m.cole3 · Apr 6, 2016

Okay that's what I thought but a lot of people on my local forum were trying to tell me that it is inevitable and that is present in all marine fish and that you can only suppress it. I thought I knew better by everything that I've read on here.

Update: I've moved all fish to quarantine and ordered cupramine, a salifert test kit, prazipro, and an ammonia badge.

Somebody told me to put an AirStone in front of my powerhead in quarantine until my meds arrive to prolonge the fishes life bc ich gets in the gills and inhibits breathing. Any truth to this?

Humblefish · Apr 6, 2016

john.m.cole3 said:
Somebody told me to put an AirStone in front of my powerhead in quarantine until my meds arrive to prolonge the fishes life bc ich gets in the gills and inhibits breathing. Any truth to this?

Yes, parasites often invade the gills first unseen & undetected. Probably because fish breathe through their gills and inadvertently "suck" the theronts (free swimmers) in. When this happens, mucous builds up around where the theronts (now trophonts) latch on making it more difficult for the fish to breathe. So, you want to provide plenty of gas exchange for maximum O2 in the water. Pointing a powerhead towards the surface of the water (so it ripples) is how to best accomplish this.

You seem like a man who is interested in knowing everything about ich!

If so, read this: https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/understanding-ich.188770/

john.m.cole3 · Apr 6, 2016

Humblefish said:
Yes, parasites often invade the gills first unseen & undetected. Probably because fish breathe through their gills and inadvertently "suck" the theronts (free swimmers) in. When this happens, mucous builds up around where the theronts (now trophonts) latch on making it more difficult for the fish to breathe. So, you want to provide plenty of gas exchange for maximum O2 in the water. Pointing a powerhead towards the surface of the water (so it ripples) is how to best accomplish this.

You seem like a man who is interested in knowing everything about ich! If so, read this: https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/understanding-ich.188770/

Yes sir. I appreciate the link!

john.m.cole3 · Apr 6, 2016

Does this look like it to you?

Humblefish · Apr 6, 2016

@john.m.cole3 The pic of the foxface looks like ich, but I think I see a couple of dead flukes on the clownfish's body. So, you may have two problems here!

Flukes:

Symptoms - Flukes are parasitic flatworms which harbor mainly inside the gills. Physical evidence of flukes is usually not visible; however at least one genus likes to target the face & eyes, so you may notice visible symptoms in those areas. Behavioral symptoms such as yawning, head twitching, scratching (targeting the gill area) and lethargy are much more common. As the disease progresses, the worms move to the eyes, and this is when you may see visible symptoms (cloudy eyes). However, you can confirm the presence of flukes at any time by performing a freshwater dip. At around the 3-4 minute mark, you will see tiny white worms fall out of a fish (especially out of the gills) if a fish has flukes. The worms will settle to the bottom, so you can use a flashlight to look for them there as well. A dark/black bucket is preferred for the freshwater dip, as that makes the white flukes easier to see.

Treatment options - Prazipro. Performing a freshwater dip will provide temporary relief, but two rounds of Prazipro (5-7 days apart) is usually required to eradicate flukes. Formalin may be used as an alternative treatment.

More detailed info: https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/flukes-–-general-guidelines.224423/

DannyB · Apr 7, 2016

Would using 5 gallon buckets which are not full be ok for TTM with a "medium" sized Kole Tang? Or do i need to bust out some 10 gallon tanks? The buckets would just be so much easier.

melypr1985 · Apr 7, 2016

DannyB said:
Would using 5 gallon buckets which are not full be ok for TTM with a "medium" sized Kole Tang? Or do i need to bust out some 10 gallon tanks? The buckets would just be so much easier.

I'm looking at my Kole tang - who I would term "medium" and I wouldn't be comfortable putting him in 5 gallon buckets. I'd use the 10 gallon tanks personally.

DannyB · Apr 7, 2016

melypr1985 said:
I'm looking at my Kole tang - who I would term "medium" and I wouldn't be comfortable putting him in 5 gallon buckets. I'd use the 10 gallon tanks personally.

That is what i figured. I appreciate your advice.

Valkyrie · Aug 10, 2016

Humblefish said:
Understanding Ich: https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/understanding-ich.188770/

The link is not working for me and says that I do not have permission to access the page. I'll look for it via search, but there might be others that have the same issue.

Edit to add: found it when I read the other article. LOL

Humblefish · Aug 10, 2016

Valkyrie said:
The link is not working for me and says that I do not have permission to access the page. I'll look for it via search, but there might be others that have the same issue.

Edit to add: found it when I read the other article. LOL

Sorry about that. I fixed the broken link. Both articles on ich got combined into this one thread: https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/ich-cryptocaryon-irritans.191226/

TheEngineer · Oct 11, 2016

Thanks for the write up! I just picked up a second 10g tank and HOB filter so I can try this method. I plan on putting bio balls that have been curing in my dump in the filter for biofiltration. I'm assuming I should throw them out after each switch. Right?

Or should I just skip them?

melypr1985 · Oct 11, 2016

icecool2 said:
Thanks for the write up! I just picked up a second 10g tank and HOB filter so I can try this method. I plan on putting bio balls that have been curing in my dump in the filter for biofiltration. I'm assuming I should throw them out after each switch. Right?

Or should I just skip them?

With TTM a filter isn't required. If you want to use them, then you would want to split them up so you can use a few each transfer. You would sterilize them with the rest of the equipment with each transfer. So essentially, they get sterilized and placed back in the sump as you use them. Does that make sense?

TheEngineer · Oct 11, 2016

melypr1985 said:
With TTM a filter isn't required. If you want to use them, then you would want to split them up so you can use a few each transfer. You would sterilize them with the rest of the equipment with each transfer. So essentially, they get sterilized and placed back in the sump as you use them. Does that make sense?

Yep. Do I need biofiltration with such frequent water changes anyhow? I could just toss the balls in during the final observation window I suppose.

melypr1985 · Oct 11, 2016

icecool2 said:
Yep. Do I need biofiltration with such frequent water changes anyhow? I could just toss the balls in during the final observation window I suppose.

Not really. When I do TTM I use prime when I need it or do a water change if ammonia is detected. With 10 gallon tanks, it's easy to do a fast waterchange. Saving them for the final observation period sounds like a solid and smart plan.

Humblefish · Oct 12, 2016

^^ Agree with Meredith. So long as you keep your TTM bioload reasonable and a bottle of Prime handy, you shouldn't need filtration. But do provide plenty of O2.