Suspected Low Nutrient System issues

lolmatt

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Tl;dr - poor SPS growth and PE, low Nitrates & Phosphates, can't seem to raise them. Apologize in advance for the long post, I've done a ton of research and tried to figure this out on my own but so far had no luck.

For about the past month or so, I've had reduced or zero polyp extension on many of my sps, and I believe it to be caused by too low nutrients. I have a skimmer and giant ball of chaeto (lighted overnight from ~11pm-12pm) as my primary methods of nutrient export. I don't have a phosphate test kit, but my nitrates are always undetectable on my red sea kit. I've had nitrate and phosphate checked at various LFS, both come back 0.0. I have very little algae in the DT ...but plenty growing in the fuge (chaeto of course, as well as hair algae and potentially dinos? on the glass and heater...I should move the heater out of the fuge but I digress...)

In the past week or two, I've also noticed slowed growth, especially in my small setosa which seems to have completely stopped growing, and lower alk/calc/mag usage. Alk/calc/mag had been stable at 8.5/480/1500 respectively, and then slowly raised steadily over the past week or so to 9.3/510/1620 respectively, with no change in my dosing (kalkwasser in ATO, very steady evaporation). I have a birdsnest and stylo that are doing great, growing fast (though the stylo may have slowed), full PE. Most of my LPS are also doing fantastic (2 hammers, a duncan w/ 5 new buds in the past 2 weeks, chalice w/ sweepers at night & steady growth as far as I can tell), excluding one frogspawn that doesn't extend much...could be related to the SPS PE issues. I have a digi and an "apple berry" monti capitata with decent PE. My remaining montis (spongodes, setosa, tubbs stellata), slimeball anacropora, have little to no PE. I had an unknown $5 blue-tip acropora frag STN last week after having poor PE for at least a month.

This is a relatively new (~6mo) 40 breeder tank with a single sbreeflights basic 16" (recently removed lenses to improve coverage...started to get some shadowing around the birdsnest and stylo), 5 fish (2 clowns, 2 halichoeres wrasses, small assessor basslet). For the past 2-3 weeks, I've increased feeding to ~3x per day (2 turns of auto-feeder NLS pellets, ~10 pellets per turn, plus a supplemental feeding of 1 cube of mysis or some other pellet food I have), as well as feeding reef roids daily (some days broadcast, some days targeted, skimmer off, powerheads off in feed mode). I have added carbon. I have increased water changes. I have stopped running the skimmer during the day. I have cut down on the fuge lighting by a few hours. I have added carbon. I have replaced an old hand-me-down mag5 with some rusty screws and upgraded my hand-me-down powerheads to 2 tunze 6055 (set to wave mode in opposite corners at about 30-40% intensity).

Some posts have suggested a pest for issues like this (redbugs, AEFW, monti eating nudis)...AEFW is an option for the acro that STN'd and the one remaining anacropora, my understanding is that redbugs don't affect montis and those have the most issues (yet some exist without problems, ex. digi and appleberry), and I think I would be able to see nudis if they were in there. Regardless, I've closely inspected all of these corals that are having issues, especially the one that STN'd, and have not seen any pests at all.

I'm considering the following changes and would like some help determining what makes most sense. Ideally I'd prefer not to dose all this crap and just feed to maintain nitrates ~5ppm and phosphates 0.02-0.04...
1. Trim back my chaeto by about 50-75%. Right now the ball is pretty massive, probably soccer-ball size.
2. Dosing amino acids such as fuel 2-3x/wk
3. Dosing nitrates and potentially phosphates as well
4. Further increasing feeding to 2 cubes/day + 2 turns of auto-feeder (~10 pellets per turn)
5. Removing filter sock
6. Reducing photo period on fuge to ~6h

Any ideas?!

Edit - forgot a couple corals, LPS I have a trumpet that's doing fantastic (bought ~3m ago as a bargain bin $5 frag w/ 2.5 heads, now 4 heads w/ 2 splitting), SPS I have a psammocora with good growth and PE, and a couple softies (xenia, gsp, both isolated on their own rocks) both doing fine.
 
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Current params in easy-to-read format:
salinity 1.026
pH ~8.2-8.4
alk 9.3
calc 510 (it's even higher than this out-of-box from reef [email protected]/35ppt)
mag 1620
0 ammonia
0 nitrite
0 nitrates
0.0 phosphate
 
There is no relation at all with polyp extension and low nutrient/zero nutrient systems. There is plenty of evidence out there of both high and low nutrient systems with excellent PE. Typical signs of completely bottomed out nutrients would be pale coloration to include partial bleaching, lack of growth, STN. When SPS don't have PE, I generally think that something in the water is irritating them. Either pests/parasites or something like heavy metal poisoning. I would suggest still running your skimmer as normal and keeping your fuge going otherwise at some point soon I think the tank will have an algae issue and you need to keep the water well oxygenated. You mentioned rusty screws. Is there possible there is any other source of rust in the water?
You can use Prime, Cuprisorb, Polyfiter or all of them to remove contaminants from the water that carbon won't get to. We have another member here who recently found a rusty piece of metal in the tank who was having SPS issues for a long time. I'd say it's possible that the rust from the Mag pump may have been enough to irritate the SPS alone.

Another thing: Monti Eating Nudies are very small and easy to miss. They either spend the day on the back side of the coral out of view, or wedged in the tiny crevices around it. Without a magnifying glass, you could easily confuse them for detritus. If it was Monti Eating nudis there wouldn't just be lousy PE, whole patches of the montis would become white as they ate all the flesh off them.
 
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I haven't seen any "growing" patches of white on the montis - the stellata had some dead areas when I got it from shading, the other two with PE issues look great aside from the PE. Everything with PE issues is colored up nicely.

Now that you mention rust...Looking over my equipment, nearly everything is new at this point. However, I didn't even think about my temperature controller which is basically this (https://www.amazon.com/Temperature-Controller-bayite-Pre-Wired-Thermostat/dp/B01KEYDNKK) - the probe has a little rust on it. Do you think that could be the culprit?
 
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Also to note, it's been about 2 weeks since I replaced the pump, and I have only seen decline since then (no improvement on PE, + the decrease in alk/calc consumption). I've done 2 10g water changes since replacing it (roughly 50g system w/ sump volume).
 
If you are not using GFO, organic carbon or LC, then your nutrients are fine - you have enough. If you are interfering and drive them low artificially, then you could have problems.

Don't sweat rust on stainless - it is not any problem.

What do you have for lights?

This all sounds like young, small tank problems. Do you have coralline? If so, it is minimal or abundant? If the coralline is not thriving, then the SPS won't be either. Don't sweat PE - it is not an indicator of anything. If your stuff is not dying, then your tank needs to mature more before the stuff takes off growing.
 
I tend to agree with jda, though I do think rust is something you don't want in the tank period. But if the rust is not an issue than I agree that the tank may just need more time to mature before SPS can thrive in it.
 
Lights are sbreef black box. Just the one over a 40 breeder. There was a pretty significant hot spot right in the middle of the tank, and some shading, so I recently removed the optics and the whole tank is well lit. My understanding is that this thing can put out 1k+ surface PAR at about 12", so I'm running roughly 60% blues and 30% whites after lens removal.

Coralline is very abundant...In just under 6 months, the back of the tank is roughly 50% covered.

I would love to agree with both of you, but what I've seen doesn't necessarily agree with the tank maturity being my issue. The setosa frag that no longer has any PE was one of the first SPS that I put in the tank. It had good PE (for a setosa...in other words the polyps were visible ;)) for about 2 months, then suddenly stopped extending and really slowed its growth. It was a fresh frag from the LFS display tank colony, so even though it had to heal it encrusted on its rock within about 2 weeks of being in my tank.
 
Another thing to note - last week my RODI started reading 1TDS so I have 2 more stages on their way...a second carbon block, and a second DI stage. I don't really think this is related...I wouldn't expect anything to be up in arms over 1TDS.
 
If you are not using any type of artificial export (carbon dosing), then the influx of nitrate will fuel new anoxic bacteria and they will quickly multiply to get the numbers back down to near-zero again. If your tank has enough rock and sand, then you will always have to keep adding more and more. In the end, you will be right where you are now... with just enough to feed everything and fuel the equilibrium.

If you are artificially exporting with organic carbon, then just stopping will do wonders - do it slowly, though.
 
Yeah, no carbon dosing or anything like that. I do have a bunch of seachem matrix as the substrate in my fuge, so there is certainly sufficient surface area for anaerobic bacteria to live and multiply as you suggested.

So, based on this, how would it ever be possible for someone to maintain nitrates at a level that would make the corals happy (~2-5ppm)?
 
I've had the same issue for almost a year and came to the conclusion that my chaeto was stripping my tank of too many nutrients. I've lost more SPS than I can count. Around a month ago I removed the chaeto and added a few "tester" frags 2 weeks ago. So far they look great and am feeling very optimistic.

Typically around a week after adding the frags the polyps would have very little extension and so far after 2 weeks the extension is like day 1. If I was to add chaeto in the future I would probably only have my lights run for 3-4 hours night instead of the 12 hours I was running them for. But for now gonna keep the chaeto out of the system.
 
Sounds very similar to what I've seen and would explain why it got progressively worse as the chaeto grew. I was thinking about trading away some chaeto this weekend...I'll trim it way back and turn down the light cycle further, 4 hours sounds good to start. Please send me a message in a couple weeks with an update on your frags!
 
Sounds very similar to what I've seen and would explain why it got progressively worse as the chaeto grew. I was thinking about trading away some chaeto this weekend...I'll trim it way back and turn down the light cycle further, 4 hours sounds good to start. Please send me a message in a couple weeks with an update on your frags!

Will do.
 
Yeah, no carbon dosing or anything like that. I do have a bunch of seachem matrix as the substrate in my fuge, so there is certainly sufficient surface area for anaerobic bacteria to live and multiply as you suggested.

So, based on this, how would it ever be possible for someone to maintain nitrates at a level that would make the corals happy (~2-5ppm)?

They don't need level at 2-5 to be happy. There are plenty of happy tanks well below 1 that have thriving, quick growing and colorful coral. I need an ICP test to even detect mine just a touch over .1. It is a throughput thing, not a numbers thing.
 
Feed more, remove some of the bio media. If you think low nutrients are your problem, these are the solution. Either feed more of remove some or the media stripping your tank of nutrients.
 
Any update?

My "tester" frags still have incredible PE and are encrusting faster than ive ever seen, since removing my chaeto. After trying what feels like everything I think I've finally unlocked the mystery. Hope this worked for you aswell.
 

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