The RO Unit... Let's Get It Going!

EmilyXLC

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Hi all!

Thanks to the EXTREMELY generous jwilson, I have my first RO unit that he was so kind enough to give me. Now I need to figure out what needs to be done to get this bad boy up & running. I've got SEVERAL mysteries to unravel before this happens, so any help you could give me would be absolutely stellar.

All I know is that it is a Coralife RO unit... I believe he said it was a 3 stage? There are no stickers or labels on the unit at all.

1.) Which model is this? What is the GPD?


2.) What do I need to buy to hook it up to the sink? Where else could I hook it up for easy, convenient use?

3.) Are the Coralife filters universal? If not, which ones do I need to purchase for this particular unit?

....Here are the pictures. Please ignore my filthy garage & crap-tastic pictures. I had to upload them through TinyPic because apparently this forum hates my MacBook. : /

2lsb3px.jpg



rsdbub.jpg




Thanks in advance for your help! : )
 
I believe the RO membrane will determine the GPD and it should be printed somewhere on the membrane itself. The RO membrane is the one that sits on top.
The larger end will unscrew and you can remove the membrane to see the GPD. You should be able to go up to a 90 GPD membrane on that unit.
 
The Coralife unit I used to have was a 50 gpd. You can change out the membrane but I think you also have to change out the flow restrictor to match the gpd of the membrane. Definitely look into adding a DI canister to that unit. Check out bulkreefsupply.com and they have several attachments so you can hook it up to your sink.
 
If the unit has been out of comission for long and/or the RO membrane has been allowed to dry out, chances are it needs replacing. That membrane housing is universal so any membrane such as Spectrapures treated and tested 90 GPD version will fit right into it along with a matched size flow restrictor. A handheld TDS meter will tell you the condition of the RO. If you don't have a meter possibly you have a friend or fellow hobbyist who would loan you one in a pinch to check it out.

Before spending much money on what you have you might want to test the membrane first. Often what I find is replacing components and upgrading a used RO only system often costs more than a brand new reef quality RO/DI and is not cost effective. By the time you spend $10-$12 on a new sediment filter, $10-$13 on a new carbon block, $35-$45 on a RO membrane and flow restrictor, $15 on an inline pressure gauge to monitor sediment and carbon block filter conditions, $30-$50 on an add on full size refillable DI filter and another $10-$20 on the fittings required to hook it all up you could just as well have spent $128 and had a brand new 90 GPD guaranteed reef quality RO/DI system.

The yellow line with the ball valve should have a garden hose thread adapter or way to hook it to the cold water supply. If not a hose adapter is like $5 and a handheld TDS meter is $20-$25 if you need to buy one. Hook it up to a hose bib or other cold water supply andsee what the TDS is coming from the unit, its normally a blue line that is the treated water outlet.

This drawing should give you an idea what you have and how the lines should be plumbed. Disregard the clors as it appears some of the lines on yours have been replaced:
http://www.spectrapure.com/huds/MPDW-DLX.pdf

All the filters and everything you would need should be on sale in the flyer at the top of the page here. I would not use the Coralife replacements as they are overpriced at the LFS and of mediocre quality:
http://www.spectrapure.com/

This manual will help you understand what is what and what goes where, its a different brand but the plumbing is similar:
http://www.spectrapure.com/manuals/PRINTER_FRIENDLY/MARINE-PRO-RO.pdf
 
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For the $40 you would spend on the dry untested, unguaranteed and only 75 GPD membrane Dave suggested you can spend $5 more and have a 90 GPD, specially treated and individually hand tested an guaranteed in writing to be better than 98% high rejection rate RO membrane. Then instead of the hit and miss one size never fits all $6 fixed type flow restrictor you can have a $5 capillary tube type flow restrictor you yourself adjust according to you unique exact water conditions for an exact 4:1 waste ratio.
You really want an absolute rated sediment filter rather than the depth filter as the difference is 99.9% of all particles at its rated micron range trapped versus maybe 65-80%. The 0.5 or 1 micron in the vendors flyer I linked to are much better choices. For the carbon block you want no larger than a 1 micron with the 20,000 gallon (4,000 treated gallons/16,000 waste gallons) 0.5 micron a better choice. A 5 micron block is usually good for around 9,000 total gallons or 1800 treated gallons and 7200 waste gallons. For the few $$ its more than worth the difference as its sole purpose is to protect the expensive RO membrane and extend its life. The longer the life the lower the operating cost and overall cost of ownership. With RO/DI you really do get what you pay for. Go with a vendor who specializes in water treatment, not one that sells chemicals (which I happen to use and highly recommend) as their main line.
 
Thanks for the info. I guess I've been doing it wrong all these years..........
 
Gosh, thanks everyone for the overwhelming amount of responses!

I am about to head out to work but as soon as I get there I will let you guys know what I've found out! Thank you, again! : )
 
Not wrong at all but for about the same money it could be much better. Its all about water quality and the long term cost since we all plan to keep our RO/DI systems operational for a long time, kind of like a fine tool. The better you protect the carbon block, the better it protects the mnembrane. The better the membrane performs the better the DI resin works and the longer it lasts etc. It all ends up saving you money over time.
 
Spectrapures treated and tested 90 GPD version will fit right into it along with a matched size flow restrictor. A handheld TDS meter will tell you the condition of the RO. If you don't have a meter possibly you have a friend or fellow hobbyist who would loan you one in a pinch to check it out.

Before spending much money on what you have you might want to test the membrane first. Often what I find is replacing components and upgrading a used RO only system often costs more than a brand new reef quality RO/DI and is not cost effective. By the time you spend $10-$12 on a new sediment filter, $10-$13 on a new carbon block, $35-$45 on a RO membrane and flow restrictor, $15 on an inline pressure gauge to monitor sediment and carbon block filter conditions, $30-$50 on an add on full size refillable DI filter and another $10-$20 on the fittings required to hook it all up you could just as well have spent $128 and had a brand new 90 GPD guaranteed reef quality RO/DI system.

The yellow line with the ball valve should have a garden hose thread adapter or way to hook it to the cold water supply. If not a hose adapter is like $5 and a handheld TDS meter is $20-$25 if you need to buy one. Hook it up to a hose bib or other cold water supply andsee what the TDS is coming from the unit, its normally a blue line that is the treated water outlet.

This drawing should give you an idea what you have and how the lines should be plumbed. Disregard the clors as it appears some of the lines on yours have been replaced:
http://www.spectrapure.com/huds/MPDW-DLX.pdf

All the filters and everything you would need should be on sale in the flyer at the top of the page here. I would not use the Coralife replacements as they are overpriced at the LFS and of mediocre quality:
SpectraPure Water Purification Products

This manual will help you understand what is what and what goes where, its a different brand but the plumbing is similar:
http://www.spectrapure.com/manuals/PRINTER_FRIENDLY/MARINE-PRO-RO.pdf

You REALLY like Spectrapure stuff! There seems to be a little BRS bashing on forums lately, from people that live in Arizona.
 
Just wanted to say Congrats!!! I was very excited when I got my first rodi!!! Def get a di to add on is my recommendation!
 
Sorry it took me so long to get back on here; work has been insane!

I asked jwilson when it was used last & he said it was about 4 months ago. I tried to open the membrane compartment & when I unscrewed the lid, some water spilled out. Is that a good sign?

However, I couldn't get the membrane out... Anyone have any tips on getting that bad boy out?
 
Being wet is a good sign but sitting 4 months is not.
To remove the membrane you may try wrapping a rag around the nipple piece with the O-Rings on it then twisting and pulling it out with a pair of pliers. When reinstalling it, a very light coating of food grade silicone grease on the seals and O-Rings makes it go in and come out easier in the future.

I don't dislike BRS but I do like the best equipment. There are several vendors I would recommend before them when it comes to RO/DI systems and replacements. When it comes to bulk chemicals they are my first choice.
 
For the $40 you would spend on the dry untested, unguaranteed and only 75 GPD membrane Dave suggested you can spend $5 more and have a 90 GPD, specially treated and individually hand tested an guaranteed in writing to be better than 98% high rejection rate RO membrane. Then instead of the hit and miss one size never fits all $6 fixed type flow restrictor you can have a $5 capillary tube type flow restrictor you yourself adjust according to you unique exact water conditions for an exact 4:1 waste ratio.
You really want an absolute rated sediment filter rather than the depth filter as the difference is 99.9% of all particles at its rated micron range trapped versus maybe 65-80%. The 0.5 or 1 micron in the vendors flyer I linked to are much better choices. For the carbon block you want no larger than a 1 micron with the 20,000 gallon (4,000 treated gallons/16,000 waste gallons) 0.5 micron a better choice. A 5 micron block is usually good for around 9,000 total gallons or 1800 treated gallons and 7200 waste gallons. For the few $$ its more than worth the difference as its sole purpose is to protect the expensive RO membrane and extend its life. The longer the life the lower the operating cost and overall cost of ownership. With RO/DI you really do get what you pay for. Go with a vendor who specializes in water treatment, not one that sells chemicals (which I happen to use and highly recommend) as their main line.
I wouldn't knock the BRS filters. They really are good filters, and made in the USA. I do agree that the 90 gpd factor for only $5 is better, but it is still a solid filter, that I use with success.
 
Fabulous!

My husband is going to try his hand at removing the membrane while I am at work tonight, so maybe we will have some progress in that department... I want to order a DI attachment soon, too. Are other brands' DIs compatible with the Coralife one?
 
Add on DI kits start at around $35 for a standard 10" vertical clear canister with a 20 oz refillable cartridge and some 1/4" fittings. Any will work but keep in mind therr are literally hundreds of DI resins being sold today and many are not really considered reef quality, be careful where you buy from. I would not buy anything RO related from Coralife, they sell imported stuff by the container load so its somewhat inexpensive but of low quality.
 
But Spectrapure's filters & DI pieces will work on Coralife?
 

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