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Exactly,Knowing this, it may be worth treating Florida live rock with Cipro upon receipt and prior to addition to one’s tank as a precautionary measure.
Alternatively, sending water samples to Aquabiomics for pathogen analysis would be another route.
Are you doing this broadcast across the whole system?Yes, used the exact amount that he used to treat BJD- "I used Ciprofloxacin at 0.125 mg / L. To achieve this I dissolved a 500 mg pill in 50 ml of RODI water, producing a 10 mg / ml solution (which I subsequently stored in the fridge). The aquarium system has 70 gal volume altogether (~265 L), so I added 3.3 ml of this solution to achieve 0.125 mg / L. I repeated this dose every 2 days for 3 doses altogether."
I really noticed the difference after the final treatment of Cipiro. Not sure how much the Triton treatments did, but we will see in January when I get my @AquaBiomics test back.
I don’t know the science behind this, but I was diving a few spots in the keys a month or so back and saw a lot of the newer Cervicornis and Palmata plantings that had started to take off, were now all STNing from the base up.To my understanding, SCTLD does not affect Caribbean Acropora species, only LPS.
Yes I did it system wide, everything is still looking great at the moment.Are you doing this broadcast across the whole system?
Its funny you mention this, I was thinking the same thing. I figured I should throw everything at it this time as the last treatment made a significant positive change.Personally, I’d dose daily for 10 days. Standard procedure for human infections is 7-10 days of daily antibiotic dosing, so you may have failed to clear the infection. Alternatively, addition of a second antibiotic the bacteria is susceptible to (amoxicillin +/- doxycycline) may be useful. The original article from Aquabiomics was in regard to Brown Jelly Disease, which may be more susceptible to ciprofloxacin than the bacteria you are treating. The SCTLD literature treats with an antibiotic paste which insures long dwell time. Make sure you have UV off and no activated carbon in your system.
Hellow,
I have the same issue and am going crazy because I have no idea what is happening in my tank and why my corals are dying even though water parameters and chemistry are perfect. The tank and corals were okay for almost a year. I do WC and ICP tests on a monthly basis. Following the Triton method, the consumption was increasing gradually but out of blue the kh consumption dropped down significantly and colours of some corals became gray while others lost the tissue in a different ratio. I had my doubts and started to act carefully to know the cause. I reduced the light intensity, increased the nutrition a little bit, stopped flatworm stop and coral booster, increased the temp from 22 to 24... all of these were done over a long period as I don't want to cause another stress factor but still corals are not recovering. I am desperately watching my corals decay one after the other and telling myself that soon I'll have to start again from scratch.
Most of the discussion here is not clear for me and I would love it if someone can simplify it. The Aquabiomics test is something new to me and I don't know how to read the results!! The medicine mentioned here too, are they meant for corals or they are for human consumption? My tank is 1300l and I wonder what would be the right dose of STN-X and RTN-X?
If you want to try the Triton STN/RTN-X they have a calculator on the website that you can correlate with your recent Triton N-DOC test to see what to dose.Hellow,
I have the same issue and am going crazy because I have no idea what is happening in my tank and why my corals are dying even though water parameters and chemistry are perfect. The tank and corals were okay for almost a year. I do WC and ICP tests on a monthly basis. Following the Triton method, the consumption was increasing gradually but out of blue the kh consumption dropped down significantly and colours of some corals became gray while others lost the tissue in a different ratio. I had my doubts and started to act carefully to know the cause. I reduced the light intensity, increased the nutrition a little bit, stopped flatworm stop and coral booster, increased the temp from 22 to 24... all of these were done over a long period as I don't want to cause another stress factor but still corals are not recovering. I am desperately watching my corals decay one after the other and telling myself that soon I'll have to start again from scratch.
Most of the discussion here is not clear for me and I would love it if someone can simplify it. The Aquabiomics test is something new to me and I don't know how to read the results!! The medicine mentioned here too, are they meant for corals or they are for human consumption? My tank is 1300l and I wonder what would be the right dose of STN-X and RTN-X?
They are 4x, no brown spots are not moving.What's your magnification on those images? Is that with a 4x or 20x? Are those little brown spots moving?
Yeah I figured that, just wanted to show what it looked like through a magnifying glass.Bacteria are not visible with a 4x lens. I'm pretty sure those are dinoflagellates.

