Trying to Better Understand Something...

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Dom

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I have read from a few different sources that when dealing with hair algae and dinos, removing all macro algae (in my case chato) from your refugium will eliminate most hair algae from the display.

This worked with a 20 gallon I had set up; I removed the chato and within a week, the algae was all but gone, and the cleanup crew took care of what remained. Two weeks later, I put the chato back into the refugium and haven't looked back since.

I'm trying the same thing with a small dino issue in spots of my 33 long too.

So please explain to me why this works?

Thank you,
Dom
 
I have read from a few different sources that when dealing with hair algae and dinos, removing all macro algae (in my case chato) from your refugium will eliminate most hair algae from the display.

This worked with a 20 gallon I had set up; I removed the chato and within a week, the algae was all but gone, and the cleanup crew took care of what remained. Two weeks later, I put the chato back into the refugium and haven't looked back since.

I'm trying the same thing with a small dino issue in spots of my 33 long too.

So please explain to me why this works?

Thank you,
Dom
From what I was told when your nutrients are filtered out too strongly the denitrifying bacteria dies out and dinos replace it. Removing the algae lets that bacteria repopulate. Maybe someone more knowledgeable can proved a better explanation though
 
Disappointed this thread didn't catch on.
 
Dom

If you are dealing with suspected dinos in a nano, your best bet is to take the entire system apart and clean them out, before they take over. Any lesser indirect action risks losing your system to an invasion

Post full tank pics let’s see what we have. Sixteen pages of examples

https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/the-official-sand-rinse-thread-aka-one-against-many.230281/page-12

Themes from the thread: we don't take nutrient measures in order to plan action, and we don't need to ID an invader to rid it. If you ran our method on a perfectly running, normal reef tank twice a week for two years, the system would never be harmed. It's amazing that the method cannot be overdone, because clean reefs aren't in stress, they're hungry and taking on food mass much better. There is nothing wrong with my 12 yr old nano, but in the thread it's rip cleaned four times just to show participation.
 
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Dom

If you are dealing with suspected dinos in a nano, your best bet is to take the entire system apart and clean them out, before they take over. Any lesser indirect action risks losing your system to an invasion

Post full tank pics let’s see what we have. Sixteen pages of examples

https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/the-official-sand-rinse-thread-aka-one-against-many.230281/page-12

Themes from the thread: we don't take nutrient measures in order to plan action, and we don't need to ID an invader to rid it. If you ran our method on a perfectly running, normal reef tank twice a week for two years, the system would never be harmed. It's amazing that the method cannot be overdone, because clean reefs aren't in stress, they're hungry and taking on food mass much better. There is nothing wrong with my 12 yr old nano, but in the thread it's rip cleaned four times just to show participation.


I am not asking how to deal with dinos in a nano.

In the OP, I mentioned that removing the macro algae from the fuge for a period of time helps to clear up algae and dino issues. I'm trying to understand why this is effective.
 
Good question. I might could understand it working to combat dinos as removing the macro algae would let the nutrients increase in the system. But it seems counterintuitive for it to work to clear up other algae’s.
 
Removing the chaeto allows the excess nutrients to stay in your tank which allows competitors to hair algae and dinos a chance to flourish and then out compete the invader. The dinos and hair algae are good at surving in a nutrient deficient environment; not many other things are.
 

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