TTM and Meds

[Jay Hemdal Verified Community Expert]

Treating 1 clown w no symptoms in qt. Says 5 teaspoons to 20 gallons. Should I ramp up over 5 days?

Actually, no reason to ramp coppersafe up slowly at all. Calculate your true tank volume, figure the dose, add 50%, let it mix well, test to ensure you are at half a dose and then add the remaining half a dose. Dealers and importers put fish directly into full copper all of the time. The risk to ramping it up slowly is that in five days, your fish can easily develop a protozoan infection while you are slowly increasing the dose, and then you're under the gun with an active infection....

Jay

 

[Cbones1979]

4.67 teaspoons

here goes nothing...(2 teaspoons)

1.0 on api per wifee

 

[Cbones1979]

Actually, no reason to ramp coppersafe up slowly at all. Calculate your true tank volume, figure the dose, add 50%, let it mix well, test to ensure you are at half a dose and then add the remaining half a dose. Dealers and importers put fish directly into full copper all of the time. The risk to ramping it up slowly is that in five days, your fish can easily develop a protozoan infection while you are slowly increasing the dose, and then you're under the gun with an active infection....

Jay

Can I use bacteria to help w ammonia when using copper safe ?

 

[Squidward]

Don't use copper with TTM. I did TTM and used prazipro for certain fish like angels. IMO it's far easier than doing copper and only takes 12 days. I have a 300g with over 30 fish including 11 tangs. Tank is Ich-Free. You can do it as well.

 

[Jay Hemdal Verified Community Expert]

Can I use bacteria to help w ammonia when using copper safe ?

Yes - that and water changes to keep the ammonia at zero. That is another reason why people get the idea that "copper" killed their fish: they dose copper in a small QT and the ammonia spikes above 0.50 mg/l. The fish die and they blame copper (grin).

Jay

 

[Cbones1979]

Yes - that and water changes to keep the ammonia at zero. That is another reason why people get the idea that "copper" killed their fish: they dose copper in a small QT and the ammonia spikes above 0.50 mg/l. The fish die and they blame copper (grin).

Jay

I have the ammonia alert up and already did a partial change. Small clown like 1.5 inch in a 20 long seems to take awhile for ammonia to spike.

 

[Cbones1979]

Yes - that and water changes to keep the ammonia at zero. That is another reason why people get the idea that "copper" killed their fish: they dose copper in a small QT and the ammonia spikes above 0.50 mg/l. The fish die and they blame copper (grin).

Jay

The symptoms for copper toxicity are lethargy and not eating?
I am almost at 2.0 w coppersafe and clownfish is swimming around a lot. Going to the top and bopping back and forth like clowns do. I’m guessing he’s ok but with my first qt attempt I’m asking

it’s hard using api so I have a Hannah on the way. Pretty sure I’m at 1.5-1.75 range but not as dark as 2 yet

 

[Jay Hemdal Verified Community Expert]

The symptoms for copper toxicity are lethargy and not eating?
I am almost at 2.0 w coppersafe and clownfish is swimming around a lot. Going to the top and bopping back and forth like clowns do. I’m guessing he’s ok but with my first qt attempt I’m asking

it’s hard using api so I have a Hannah on the way. Pretty sure I’m at 1.5-1.75 range but not as dark as 2 yet

Copper toxicity symptoms are pretty hard to see visually - lower immune response, possible anemia, liver changes. Sometimes you’ll see lethargy or pale coloration, but not always.
Jay

 

[DaddyFish]

The symptoms for copper toxicity are lethargy and not eating?
I am almost at 2.0 w coppersafe and clownfish is swimming around a lot. Going to the top and bopping back and forth like clowns do. I’m guessing he’s ok but with my first qt attempt I’m asking

it’s hard using api so I have a Hannah on the way. Pretty sure I’m at 1.5-1.75 range but not as dark as 2 yet

Hanna checker arrive yet?
I've found CopperSafe directions to be spot-on when checking with Hanna tester.

 

[Cbones1979]

Hanna checker arrive yet?
I've found CopperSafe directions to be spot-on when checking with Hanna tester.

Not yet. Api I’m still under 2.0...checker comes Thursday I think. Fish doing well tho. No signs of anything and he’s eating well.

 

[Cbones1979]

Hanna checker arrive yet?
I've found CopperSafe directions to be spot-on when checking with Hanna tester.

Arrived and I’ve been at 2.14

think that’s too high or about right?

 

[DaddyFish]

Arrived and I’ve been at 2.14

think that’s too high or about right?

I'd leave it right there and test again in 24-hours. If it goes up then dilute a bit. But more than likely it will go down a bit and 2.0 is right where you want to be.

 

[Cbones1979]

I'd leave it right there and test again in 24-hours. If it goes up then dilute a bit. But more than likely it will go down a bit and 2.0 is right where you want to be.

Thanks Daddy

 

[Bikerdan]

Whats better, TTM or medicating, when you only have a 20G long for your QT (other than the DT)? What would be needed to be able to do TTM; 2 10G tanks, 2 sponge filters with 1 or 2 air pumps, 2 heaters, 2 thermometers, 2 miscellaneous stuff plus 50G of mixed salt water? All this stuff ads up. Im beginning to think you need a trust fund to successfully maintain a reef or salt water aquarium.

 

[Jay Hemdal Verified Community Expert]

Whats better, TTM or medicating, when you only have a 20G long for your QT (other than the DT)? What would be needed to be able to do TTM; 2 10G tanks, 2 sponge filters with 1 or 2 air pumps, 2 heaters, 2 thermometers, 2 miscellaneous stuff plus 50G of mixed salt water? All this stuff ads up. Im beginning to think you need a trust fund to successfully maintain a reef or salt water aquarium.

I always opt for a medicated quarantine. TTM mainly addresses Cryptocaryon (ich) and there are other diseases that need to be considered.
Jay

 

[Squidward]

Whats better, TTM or medicating, when you only have a 20G long for your QT (other than the DT)? What would be needed to be able to do TTM; 2 10G tanks, 2 sponge filters with 1 or 2 air pumps, 2 heaters, 2 thermometers, 2 miscellaneous stuff plus 50G of mixed salt water? All this stuff ads up. Im beginning to think you need a trust fund to successfully maintain a reef or salt water aquarium.

Here's my TTM protocol. Two 10g tanks, 2 heaters, 2 small tunze powerheads, 2 pvc. And you do prazipro if needed on fish like angels. I don't like copper so this way has been great for me. 300g tank stocked with 30+fish including 11 tangs ICH FREE.

 

[Bikerdan]

Here's my TTM protocol. Two 10g tanks, 2 heaters, 2 small tunze powerheads, 2 pvc. And you do prazipro if needed on fish like angels. I don't like copper so this way has been great for me. 300g tank stocked with 30+fish including 11 tangs ICH FREE.

Do you leave the 2 10G tanks up all the time or set them up only when introducing new fish? Do you do TTM for inverts- coral, shrimp etc?

 

[Squidward]

Do you leave the 2 10G tanks up all the time or set them up only when introducing new fish? Do you do TTM for inverts- coral, shrimp etc?

I only have one tank up at a time. On the day of transfer, I'll fill up the other tank with water and etc. Get it going and then transfer the fish(s) into the tank. I then hot water wash the other 10g tank and equipment. That tank and equipment will have a minimum 2 days to dry out before filling it back up for the next transfer. No you don't do TTM for corals and inverts. I used a seperate 15g tank for my corals and inverts. The coral/invert tank has been cycled with spongefilter and a few small live rock and sand. I'll throw corals and inverts in there for a minimum 30 days before I add them to my display. According to Humblefish's chart, you can add shrimp into your display as soon as they shed their exoskeleton. Snails and hermits will have to do 30 days minimum for me. Urchins can be rinsed and go into your display after acclimation without qurantine.