Ulva algae removal

[Reef_puck]

Now that my lights are getting into the tank Ulva has taken over. I added a pincushion urchin that is eating some but not enough to remove it. The algae had started where the urchin was days before.

What else can I do as it’s covering 80% of the rock now. I do not want to remove the rock to scrub.

Added some cheato to the sump.

PO4 .06
Nitrate 9

Any other ideas?

 

[jabberwock]

More urchins

 

[Glenner’sreef]

1. A couple of Tangs.
2. 20 crabs, 20 Turbos.
3. GFO.
4. Decrease lighting (3 hours daily)
5. Check your water source.

 

[Spare time]

If it is green hair algae, consider a sea hare. Alternatively, you can try fluconazole. Manual scrubbing will help too.

 

[kindafun]

I've had good experiences with Foxface's, both the Lo and Onespot.

 

[Reef_puck]

I have a blue eyed Kole tang. Does not touch it. It’s only a 90g tank so adding more is probably not an option.

I have a bunch of snails, hermits and emeralds.

I am running GFO through a reactor

Water source appears to be ok. Had an ICP test done hat stated the same.

 

[Reef_puck]

It’s not hair algae. It’s leafy Ulva.

Could you add a fox face to a tank with a tang already in it without causing mayhem?

 

[Minifoot77]

It’s not hair algae. It’s leafy Ulva.

Could you add a fox face to a tank with a tang already in it without causing mayhem?

Depends on the tang my yellow eye kole is a murderer and I have a hard time getting fish in my tank because of him. I did manage to get a foxface lo in by doing the aclamation box and a tank divider for a while

 

[FishOfHex]

1. Find the source, food/ro filters/ not enough export
2. Manual removal during water changes
3. cleanup crew can help but its not long-lasting solution

I would start with three 30% water changes in a week to help rebalance the tank and remove nutrients. Then find the source you can simply replace all ro/di filters or do an ICP test to confirm RO water nutrient levels. Make sure not to overfeed and dial in the skimmer for more of a wet skim. Having a refugium is very helpful and something I recommend on most setups. At the end of the day getting nutrients in check and keeping them stable is the only solution to algae outbreaks long-term. Good luck

 

[Reef_puck]

Manual removal - meaning pull the rock out and scrub?

 

[Lavey29]

Get you hands wet daily with manual removal. 3 tuxedo urchins too. Raise magnesium to 1500, it weakens the strands. Your coralline will eventually out compete this.

 

[FishOfHex]

Manual removal - meaning pull the rock out and scrub?

No, get in with a toothbrush and start scrubbing that before you change your water. It helps speed up the process a bit.

 

[Reef_puck]

ICP test from May

 

[FishOfHex]

You have an RO water test?

 

[Reef_puck]

The ro one is this one

 

[Lavey29]

You have an RO water test?

Probably why his ICP shows high silicates

 

[Lavey29]

The ro one is this one

Get a spectrapure silica buster DI filter for your RODI system.

 

[FishOfHex]

ICP test from May

Yup bad filters, replace them and set a schedule to replace the carbon blocks. Use color changing di and change it before its completely depleted. Change the filters before doing the water changes bc you will just be adding to the issue otherwise.

 

[Reef_puck]

You think the silicon is causing the Ulva to grow?

 

[Lavey29]

You think the silicon is causing the Ulva to grow?

I don't think it's directly feeding the green algae but may have some secondary affect in the tank that opens the door for the algae. Maybe the green algae is consuming diatoms in the tank caused by high silicates?

I would also decrease lights to 6 hours for several weeks with blue and uv only. No whites. Get more cleaners in the tank.