Water storage

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Agree with the other answers. I use a brute. That said - I store RO - for long periods. And though my TDS is 0. always - there is a small amount of algae growing on the sides of the container. I have no problems with it - So I dont do anything about it. Your TDS could be from that. I DOUBT its from the plastic in the can. But - use a food grade container (or a lab grade container). The most likely explanation is an error in your testing - unless you are keeping your water for months before using it...
 
WWC
MnFish1 said:
Agree with the other answers. I use a brute. That said - I store RO - for long periods. And though my TDS is 0. always - there is a small amount of algae growing on the sides of the container. I have no problems with it - So I dont do anything about it. Your TDS could be from that. I DOUBT its from the plastic in the can. But - use a food grade container (or a lab grade container). The most likely explanation is an error in your testing - unless you are keeping your water for months before using it...
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There’s no way I’m messing up a TDS reading lol. The water has been in it for about 2 weeks though. It even smells like plast
 
I also use Brute cans and have no issues with TDS above “0”.

I got my 44 gallon cans from the warehouse at my job for $26 each. I have 3. The 2 for the mixing station and another on casters. All 3 have lids. I didn’t get them with lids for the $26, I had to order them separate cuz we don’t carry them.

F6D99280-87F6-4AC1-A0E0-96EA01515BFC.jpeg
 
Haroldeez said:
There’s no way I’m messing up a TDS reading lol. The water has been in it for about 2 weeks though. It even smells like plast
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Sorry for the suggestion - you did ask a question lol. Apparently you picked the wrong type of bucket to put water into. Just saying - But - Sorry I dont buy it - can you provide any information that plastics cause a high TDS on a meter you're using? In any case - the most likely answer is an error in your testing or your testing equipment lol. Sorry. Thats not to say there cant be plastic (or something) from your container that you didnt' clean out properly - in any case - TDS is usually pretty specific. Sorry - Didnt mean to offend.
 
Haroldeez said:
. . . . It even smells like plast
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Your comment made me stop and think - sometimes when the top is left on the storage container then any off-gassing from the water is trapped inside the container and seems strong when you open it. Another approach (though not always necessary) is to create space for air flow and maybe even add an air stone. Obviously this would only impacts the smell and not the TDS! :) Good luck!
 
MnFish1 said:
Sorry for the suggestion - you did ask a question lol. Apparently you picked the wrong type of bucket to put water into. Just saying - But - Sorry I dont buy it - can you provide any information that plastics cause a high TDS on a meter you're using? In any case - the most likely answer is an error in your testing or your testing equipment lol. Sorry. Thats not to say there cant be plastic (or something) from your container that you didnt' clean out properly - in any case - TDS is usually pretty specific. Sorry - Didnt mean to offend.
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You didn’t offend at all man trust me I appreciate every response I get here. This is by far the best forum I was testing that water, my tap water, the RO water that I use to go into the barrel and went across the street to the store and tested a bottle of drinking water lol. Everything jives. Except what’s been sitting in this barrel for 10 days has a TDS of 600!! And it stinks! It almost burns my throat with the smell of plastic. My poor fish
 
MnFish1 said:
Sorry for the suggestion - you did ask a question lol. Apparently you picked the wrong type of bucket to put water into. Just saying - But - Sorry I dont buy it - can you provide any information that plastics cause a high TDS on a meter you're using? In any case - the most likely answer is an error in your testing or your testing equipment lol. Sorry. Thats not to say there cant be plastic (or something) from your container that you didnt' clean out properly - in any case - TDS is usually pretty specific. Sorry - Didnt mean to offend.
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And I’d like to agree, a plastic bucket is a plastic bucket right??
 
Ok.. no laughing at this...
I actually make water on my front porch. No basements in Texas, and working on making a spot in the garage. For now I just use a couple 3 gal and a 5 gal water jug for RODI. Salt for the tank is mixed in a 5 gal bucket by the tank inside the night before.

Yah.. I'm straight up ghetto!
IMG_20190423_170043664.jpeg
 
Haroldeez said:
And I’d like to agree, a plastic bucket is a plastic bucket right??
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There are so many different kinds of plastic. In some manufacturing processes different types of mold release agents(the chemicals added to the plastic or applied directly to the mold to prevent the part from sticking to the mold) are used and in some the quantity/type of mold release is excessive. In the auto body world we occasionally run into instances where no matter what prep work we do and products and primers we use, the paint just will not stick to certain plastics because they continue to leech mold release agent which in turn releases the paint. We have one particular distributor that buys from a source in Korea that we completely cut off business with because it’s such a widespread problem. Our parts are not polypropylene, but I see no reason why you couldn’t or wouldn’t run into a similar problem with other kinds of plastics. Maybe a bad batch? It happens all the time.
 
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KorD said:
Ok.. no laughing at this...
I actually make water on my front porch. No basements in Texas, and working on making a spot in the garage. For now I just use a couple 3 gal and a 5 gal water jug for RODI. Salt for the tank is mixed in a 5 gal bucket by the tank inside the night before.

Yah.. I'm straight up ghetto!
IMG_20190423_170043664.jpeg
Click to expand...
Hey that’s perfect.... I just wanted a large container so I don’t have to so much water movement. At some point here I failed and it’s really irritating not being able to figure it out. I’m headed to the farm center to get an actual animal drinking water container
 
SeaJay said:
There are so many different kinds of plastic. In some manufacturing processes different types of mold release agents(the chemicals added to the plastic or applied directly to the mold to prevent the part from sticking to the mold) are used and in some the quantity/type of mold release is excessive. In the auto body world we occasionally run into instances where no matter what prep work we do and products and primers we use, the paint just will not stick to certain plastics because they continue to leech mold release agent which in turn releases the paint. We have one particular distributor that buys from a source in Korea that we completely cut off business with because it’s such a widespread problem. Our parts are not polypropylene, but I see no reason why you couldn’t or wouldn’t run into a similar problem with other kinds of plastics. Maybe a bad batch? It happens all the time.
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Definitely makes sense. Last night cleaned that container and put just a few gallons in it. I opened it this morning and I’m telling you the fumes closed my fkn throat with almost a burning feeling. Man in this hobby I’m finding there are little lessons to be learned around every corner. Almost day for me still.
 
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SeaJay said:
There are so many different kinds of plastic. In some manufacturing processes different types of mold release agents(the chemicals added to the plastic or applied directly to the mold to prevent the part from sticking to the mold) are used and in some the quantity/type of mold release is excessive. In the auto body world we occasionally run into instances where no matter what prep work we do and products and primers we use, the paint just will not stick to certain plastics because they continue to leech mold release agent which in turn releases the paint. We have one particular distributor that buys from a source in Korea that we completely cut off business with because it’s such a widespread problem. Our parts are not polypropylene, but I see no reason why you couldn’t or wouldn’t run into a similar problem with other kinds of plastics. Maybe a bad batch? It happens all the time.
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I agree - I guess my question would that cause a TDS of 600?
 
MnFish1 said:
I agree - I guess my question would that cause a TDS of 600?
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Not in my experience.

When we hear crazy things like this from customers... there is nearly always more to the story. For example: bad meter, faulty sampling, "oh yea, I did mix salt in that container once," etc...
 
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Buckeye Hydro said:
SeaJay - might want to consider getting rid of those brass valves that are in your pic. Should have no metal contact other than good stainless steel with RO or RODI water.

Russ
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Yes, that’s been addressed since these pics were taken.

I now have a pair of these on there.

9FA40095-71C0-4BCF-8D5D-F312A93D780A.png
 
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I use Norwesco 65 gallon vertical barrel for my RO/DI water. Has vented lid and bulkhead in the bottom, as well as graduated marks. All I had to do was drill a small hole in the top and install a float valve.

For saltwater I use a horizontal 35 gal tank. I do have another 55 gallon drum (also with graduations) that I will probably switch over at some point as the 35 gal is not really big enough for my needs anymore. But it does work really well. You can almost always find 55 gal plastic drums that were used for salt spray, food products, soaps, etc. Search Craigslist and get one that had food products in it.

Norwesco or Ace Roto Mold are generally the "best" options in my opinion. Safe, easy to use, durable, graduations, etc. If you can find them used, then you're lucky. Otherwise, I think they are worth the money I spent on mine.
 
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Those are good tanks. Just installed a 2000 gallon, and a 550 gallon on a commercial job, both with UV recirc loops, repressurization pumps, and liquid level controls (one tether float switch with weight, one 1.5" float valve).
Russ
 
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