What is This!!!!

[Psy]

Guess I will skip this water change then. I dont have alot of corals ones I do have are little, here some how do I keep them looking like that but keep lvl up a little dont run carbon gfo skimmer 24-7? Sorry for beginner questions

 

[Psy]

Just knowing helps, as @saltyfilmfolks stated to high or too low can cause issues

This stuff Starr long time ago I had ick lost all fish, where fish less for 11 weeks no feeding or anything well vary little 1 time a week I feed shrimp and crabs and starfish doing weekly water changes. We just added fish 3 weeks ago.

 

[saltyfilmfolks]

Guess I will skip this water change then. I dont have alot of corals ones I do have are little, here some how do I keep them looking like that but keep lvl up a little dont run carbon gfo skimmer 24-7? Sorry for beginner questions

If the corals are suffereing I’d donthe water change as it may be a toxin.
But test first for a limitation.
If the algae sucked up all the no3 , that may be why the coral look bad now.
Hard to say.

 

[Psy]

As JSKER suggested , test the no3 and Po4.
In some cases a limitation of one or the other can encourage growth. In fact some organisms seem to encourage that limitation.

So yea , too Clean kinda.

Ok so I test them and no3 no4 are not detectable.

 

[Psy]

If the corals are suffereing I’d donthe water change as it may be a toxin.
But test first for a limitation.
If the algae sucked up all the no3 , that may be why the coral look bad now.
Hard to say.

Only ones that look bad are the hammer and frog spawn corals

 

[reeferfoxx]

It is like a blond hair algae, usually caused by high nitrates

It does look filamentous like lyngbya. Either way both are products of nutrient limitation or one nutrient suppressing the other.

Ok so I test them and no3 no4 are not detectable.

We are past ammonia at this point. Though having none is a good sign. Po4 testing would help here.

As others stated, manual removal is best. You can try the no water change and increased feedings for a month. I wouldn't exceed feeding twice a day as it can hurt water quality but a build up of detritus can help increase P and the fish can increase N.

Otherwise, stick to weekly or biweekly water changes as you have been, reduced to 10% and start dosing potassium phosphate(seachem flourish phosphorus) and sodium nitrate(purchased from amazon). You don't need to go buck wild on dosing. Maintaining phosphates around 0.02-0.08 and nitrates between 2-10ppm. Remember, what you dose needs to be tested.

 

[Psy]

It does look filamentous like lyngbya. Either way both are products of nutrient limitation or one nutrient suppressing the other.

We are past ammonia at this point. Though having none is a good sign. Po4 testing would help here.

As others stated, manual removal is best. You can try the no water change and increased feedings for a month. I wouldn't exceed feeding twice a day as it can hurt water quality but a build up of detritus can help increase P and the fish can increase N.

Otherwise, stick to weekly or biweekly water changes as you have been, reduced to 10% and start dosing potassium phosphate(seachem flourish phosphorus) and sodium nitrate(purchased from amazon). You don't need to go buck wild on dosing. Maintaining phosphates around 0.02-0.08 and nitrates between 2-10ppm. Remember, what you dose needs to be tested.

Ok look into dosing them, feeding I will go up to 3-4 times weekly and do biweekly water change of 32 gal. Removal of the stuff going to be hard as it on alot of stuff. if I get most of it will the rest die off overtime?

 

[Psy]

Wow thanks to everyone who jump in and help.