When even Algae stops growing ...

Dennis Cartier

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I am currently going through an interesting time with my frag tank. I had been practicing my husbandry on this tank in an effort to maintain nutrient levels in a zone for growth. Things were going well in this regard, for the first time, I was capable of keeping SPS and getting decent growth from them. Then I hit the wall, and things seemed to stall. Like most things with tanks, I only can only piece together the events that I missed, after the fact. I knew something was wrong with my water, but just what it was specifically, eluded me.

At the point where things started going bad, my nutrient level all looked fine (NO3=2, PO4=0.08, Alk=8.0 dkh). One thing that puzzled me was that coraline never took off in this tank. It would start, and then fade away, with no apparent reason.

I added a couple of T5's to my AP700, and that seemed to give the corals a bit of a boost, soon after, they again fell into stagnant growth.

Even though my nutrients are far from ULNS, I decided to start supplementing with Reef Energy, which I have had good results with in the past. Again, growth resumed.

About this time, I discovered I had nudi's, so I added Flat Worm Stop and Coral Booster to try to help my monti's to outgrow the nudis. Things were growing pretty well at this point.

The first sign of things to come was a large cyphastrea colony bleaching and RTN'ing. At the time, I was not overly concerned and thought it was only this colony that had an issue. However I should have taken more notice of it, as cyphastrea are tough corals, and this particular colony had been grown from a nickel sized frag and been through multiple tanks.

At this point, I was not even thinking there was a problem. Things were still growing as long as I fed a steady diet of Reef Energy and Coral Booster/FWS. I sent off a Triton test just to get a better understanding of my levels. When the ICP results came back, most things were inline with norms. My Mg was a bit high (1584 mg/L), ditto with Ca (476 mg/L), Sr was a bit low (6.45 mg/L) and Iodine was elevated (176 ug/L). My metals were all zero as well (Ni, Mo, V, Co, Cr, Mn, Fe). The Iodine was a bit of a concern, and I was at the time dosing part of my alk using Aqua Forest Component 2 which contains Iodine. The rest of my alk was being supplied by Kalk. I was doing this to try to offset out of balance alk depletion caused by a sulfur reactor I had in the system.

Around this point, one of the 3 BTA's that was in the tank started to go downhill. It started to lose colour and became very streaky with clear parts of its body. The tentacles became stubby and their numbers started to decline. I was concerned that this BTA was going to perish if I did not act. I upped its feeding to see if it was a nutrition deficiency. That seemed to help a bit, but only stopped the downward slide.

My plan was to do some big water changes to try to lower the Iodine a bit incase that was contributing to the issues. But first I needed to deal with the sulfur reactor causing the out of balance consumption. So I removed the sulfur reactor. The removal of the reactor caused my nutrients to begin to rise.

I started dosing MicroE at this point to see if the issues with the nem could be caused by a lack of trace elements. Within a few days, the nem started to regain its colour. Hmm, so something in the trace additive helped.

By this point my NO3 was sitting at 10 ppm and PO4 was rising fast (peaked at .255 pm). Even with these levels, I noticed that all the algae in the tank had disappeared. Very little algae on the glass. I didn't even have to scrap anymore. This got my attention. Normally elevated nitrate and phosphate would be a huge reason for algae outbreaks, and I was seeing the opposite. Rising nutrients and declining algae.

I was away on vacation and just returned this weekend. While I was away, the Reef Energy was not dosed. I did not want to push my luck with the tank sitter. Besides, the nutrients are sky high compared to previous levels. Upon my return, I noticed a coupe SPS had individual polyps that had bleached, and 2 other large cyphastrea colonies were showing signs like the first one, polyps bleaching and patches of bleaching. I also noticed large colonies of pallys (which I wish would die!!) were loosing colour, going grey instead of the electric green that they are normally.

Hmm, the same symptoms as the first cyphastrea colony, but with high nutrients instead of low. No algae outbreak, pally's losing colour. The pally's were the thing that gave me the clue I needed. They had done this in the past, and it was from too low of iron (or no iron as it were). In those cases, I dosed a bit of Iron and they would return to their former invasive glory.

I had been planning to add a fuge to try my hand at using chaeto for export. I had an H380 on hand to light it. Yesterday I completed the fuge and added a small ball of chaeto. While doing this, I added 20 G of water volume to fill the fuge. This morning I dosed 1 ml of Kent Iron and Manganese. I figured if I want the chaeto to grow, I had better make sure that the tank was not iron deficient.

When I got home tonight, I noticed that about 20% of the pally's had green returning to their centers. Yesterday it was only about 10% that had visible green. Polyp extension was also better on my Montis, Stellata, Stylophora, and LPS. Overall things appear to be improving. I have decided to use the ability to keep chaeto growing as a good indicator that things are not depleted. As long as my water can support macro algae, then it should be able to support corals. So far the little ball of chaeto is sitting on the bottom of the large fuge, fingers crossed that it will acclimate and start to grow.

Dennis
 
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That's a nice read!!! Thank you.

Not many reefers have the patience, experience, and fortitude to not only recognize what was happening, but to adjust ever so slightly the parameters to bring it back. Glad it's looking up.

I had nothing but trouble on my last tank (without a refugium). I'm LOVING my current setup with refugium/macro algae (and dosing Triton).

Keith
 
So do you figure most of your problems were trace element deficiencies? In particluar maganese and iron?
 
So do you figure most of your problems were trace element deficiencies? In particluar maganese and iron?

At this point, if I had to choose the culprit, I would go with Iron as the primary cause. Compared to the elements (other than Iron) in MicroE, Iron would be a better outcome as it is considered fairly safe to dose, and has gets depleted fairly fast, so building up an excess is less of a concern. I am dosing the MicroE, at 1/2 the maximum dose for my water volume. I plan on doing another Triton test shortly to see what (if anything) has changed.

Another reason that I suspect Iron, is that I had been noticing some brown precipitation on my 44 G Brute container that I use to hold my ASW for my AWC. I was not too concerned when I first noticed the discolouration and thought nothing of it. I was going through 1 Brute of ASW every 3 weeks in a 120 G system, so I figured that this would keep my traces replenished. When I received my ICP with all the trace elements 0.0, I started to wonder how my daily water changes were not keeping them in line. While mixing up a new batch of ASW for the large water change I had been planning to lower the Iodine, I happened to read the infosheet that came with the Aqua Forest Reef salt I was using. It mentioned that the mixed saltwater should be used within 48 hours of mixing. I had been using my fresh saltwater over a 3 week period for a couple of years. Then I remembered the brown precipitation, and it all started to make sense. My expectation was that ASW should be stable if kept unheated and still (I use a heater and mixing pump for about 24 hours while mixing up a fresh batch), however the AF Reef Salt seems to precipitate over the 3 week period. The Triton test along with the precipitation in the barrel all point to this fact. Well that and AF recommends that it must be used within 48 hours of mixing. I just looked on the AF site, and they are showing 5 days as the period that mixed salt must be used in? I am not sure if the site suggestion is new, or the infosheet in the salt container is an update, but both are a lot shorter than the 3 weeks I was using it in. I like the parameters that the AF Reef Salt mixes to, but if I can't use it for a long enough period for a daily water change without the trace metals precipitating out, then I may have to look for other options. Going full Triton would be another option.

Dennis
 
Assuming there are no fish in this tank that you are feeding, then I agree that trace elements is a likely possible issue, especially combined with the Triton results. All photosynthetic organisms need a lot of different trace elements, and most of the things you are adding do not contain them in substantial amounts. I'm not sure what MicroE is.

My suggestion is to try a complete wide spectrum trace element additive. I don't really have a preferred product, but there are a lot of them.
 
Assuming there are no fish in this tank that you are feeding, then I agree that trace elements is a likely possible issue, especially combined with the Triton results. All photosynthetic organisms need a lot of different trace elements, and most of the things you are adding do not contain them in substantial amounts. I'm not sure what MicroE is.

My suggestion is to try a complete wide spectrum trace element additive. I don't really have a preferred product, but there are a lot of them.

Actually there are fish in this tank. Although I call it a frag tank, it is really a holding tank for my livestock and corals while I prepare a new display tank. So the tank does get fed everyday. For awhile now that takes the form of 1 cube of mysis. In the past, I fed flakes mainly, but for the last 3 months or so, I have been almost exclusively frozen. Even with daily feeding of fish and a daily water change, I still didn't register any trace elements.

Come to think of it, I should search through the rocks in my sump to make sure I don't have any filter bags with Cuprisorb in it. I did have some in the tank last year and thought I removed it, but if it has made it's way between some rocks, it could still be in there. In my previous tank, I noticed a correlation between Cuprisorb use and the reduction of dinos. At the time I suspected that the Cuprisorb was also binding iron, or something else that dinos required, and it was this effect that was helping to starve out the dinos. Pure conjecture, but nonetheless, very helpful for dealing with dino outbreaks. This might just explain where my traces are going now that I think of it.

Micro E is from Aqua Forest and contains manganese, vanadium, zinc, nickel, iron, chromium, cobalt & copper. All of which were undetectable on my ICP.

Dennis
 
Just an update. When I came home from work last night, I noticed film algae starting to form on the glass (yay!). Tonight it was even more obvious. So the iron additions are working as expected. The other noticeable changes have been better polyp extension and most of the SPS frags are showing signs of tip growth, especially new polyps growing along the tips, that previously only had new tissue with no polyps. Overall I am very happy that my hypothesis of what the tank was lacking appears to be working out (for the moment :)). I may even think about scraping soon!

I examined all the filter bags that were in the sump to see if one contained some forgotten Cuprisorb (no luck), so the reason for the apparent iron limitation (and undetectable traces) is not totally nailed down yet.

The chaeto in the fuge is not growing to any great degree yet. It is not dying either, so I am thinking it is still acclimating. I have been monitoring the PH to see if there is any impact from the fuge. Nothing yet, but I am quite surprised to note that the tank PH stays between 8.20 and 8.24 over a 24 hour period. I dose kalk at night, and it seems to be keeping the tank PH almost flatlined.

Dennis
 
Another update is in order. Things are moving along with the fuge. My chaeto has grown from a hardball size to a cantaloupe sized ball (+~400%). It still only covers about 15-20% of the surface of the Brute fuge, so it has plenty of room to grow still. It's growth has slowed somewhat in the last few days. Probably related to the 1/2" shag carpet of GHA that has grown to coat the inside of the Brute. I decided I needed to either manually remove the GHA in the Brute, lest it outcompete the chaeto, or try other means of control. I decided to see if I could tip the balance in favour of chateo using biological means. I purchased 5 turbo snails and placed them in the fuge. It has only been 2 days, but 4 of them that landed on the bottom of the fuge, have created a nice beachhead in the GHA, a bare spot about 6" in diameter. The 5th one has crawled up the side and is working his way long the top edge like he is eating corn of the cob. They look like nudis munching on an oversized monti. My thinking is that they will convert the GHA into organic nutrients that the chaeto can use hopefully before the slowly decreasing amount of GHA can.

The other change I have made is to alter my kalk timing. In the past I was dosing a set amount of kalk spaced throughout the nighttime period to limit the PH drop. After the fuge got going, I noticed the PH was hitting 8.38 during the fuge on times and then dropping to a low of 8.24 while the DT lights were on. I have moved the kalk doses to be while the DT lights are ramping up and down to help the PH at those points. PH seems to be from 8.28 (DT on) to 8.31 (fuge on) now.

My phosphate has also been coming down nicely. Today it was 0.091 as tested by ULR. Nitrate has dropped to 5 ppm. I will have to keep an eye one the nitrate level as I think had a big surplus of phosphate bound up in the rocks, but nitrate will probably become limiting.

I also noticed that the pump that had been providing flow to a (covered) rubbermaid barrel containing the LR that would not fit in the sump had slowed to a trickle. I am wondering of this might not have had something to do with the big jump in PO4 that seemed to happen suddenly after I had removed the sulfur reactor. I had assumed it was related to the reactor removal, or I had just reached the capacity of my LR, but if this flow issue has been going on for while it could be related to sponges and other cryptic organisms dying off in the very limited flow to the rubbermaid. In any case I removed the Jebao DC pump that was feeding it and replaced it with a Sicce one.

Dennis
 

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