Every coral in the tank above can sit out in the air for 30 mins + and not die, ergo we have a way to fix this tank if you are willing to force clean it back into shape, no harm comes to the coral only the algae.
we would keep them misted or in a holding container of course, but they can take air emersion if required/ we have video of this being done several times/trust
If you want it fixed, the tank must be disassembled then cleaned in a certain manner... put back without algae, all detritus stores removed, and then in the clean condition only we would start flucoazole. Every action advised for controlling algae here is great, but it comes after your weekend of harsh work for having not worked so far, that's the real balance.
you make the algae go away over the course of two days tank redo, perfectly algae free.
now you have a reset tank using all the same corals, fish and substrate. work clean from there
I would love the challenge of restoring this by thread... the tank is 100% eutrophic but by this weekend can be made oligotrophic by sheer will. For five mos after that you'll be hand guiding regrowth out, no one off effort undoes years of plant gain. But the initial fix will make the tank look and run 90% better and each tuft of algae is retaining detritus for onsite feed degradation which is why your testers don't matter here. eutrophic conditions will recirculate the rot all around your tank as some action kills off the algae and you leave it to slowly die
but to make this tank clean, kill the algae and export it, in the same run. stop the cycle of detritus castings everywhere is the best advice. an intercept using skip cycle cleaning already done in threads combining out to +100 pages
You'll have to choose when you are ready to be algae free, then we can.
It starts with making one single test rock comply before you do the whole tank. This is where you learn it's regrowth or death characters based on how you would garden it back into shape. its a time waster to subject your whole tank to an experiment. If you want to dose something to the water, test it in a 5 gal bucket/same dilution on a test rock before you act on the main tank.
The #1 thing that should occur is a pre modeled kill, and then when you apply it to the whole tank you know what to expect.
No test kits are needed to fix this tank only will to copy the work already done in gha fix threads
If your normal reef lighting is 10k/ white with hardly any blues like the pics above that is a huge contributor, not a param. Are your lights normally that white or is it adjusted for pictures
when your tank is fixed, the current lighting intensity needs to drop 40% and ramp back up, if ever, based on algae regrowth, over the next half year. Your current lighting is in excess, there are no shade points. all points get 100% sun, that's likely about 70% of your cause. every coral in there will still continue on if your lighting is reduced just under half then ramped up, they do not require the current levels that feed the algae too.
I believe you have zero phosphate issues from the rock as causative. params or things you measure didn't cause this, only allowance. Disallowance is the cure, starting with test rock assessment so your actual variables are considered before the big job is ran
DSC01466 by chris wagg, on Flickr
DSC01468 by chris wagg, on Flickr
DSC01470 by chris wagg, on Flickr
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