00W's AIO Smorgasbord

Let's say I get home, fill the tank with water and I see no leaks. Would I have to re-seal it or could I leave the current seal? I have no idea what the tank has been through or how old it is.
Up to you. It doesn't hurt to reseal but just remember to give it the 24 hours minimum to cure and then I'd give it several days to soak and drain, then rinse good.
 
Up to you. It doesn't hurt to reseal but just remember to give it the 24 hours minimum to cure and then I'd give it several days to soak and drain, then rinse good.
I've heard that it is very difficult to reseal it though. Is that true?
 
Let's say I get home, fill the tank with water and I see no leaks. Would I have to re-seal it or could I leave the current seal? I have no idea what the tank has been through or how old it is.
I would ask as many questions of the owner as you want.
How old is it, did you use it for fish, etc etc.
Feel them out.
If you like them,trust them look at the seal and if it's good fill it with water.
I have bought 100 used tanks (maybe not that many ;) but you get my point) and never had a leaker yet.
My 2 cents.
If you get a bad vibe move on.
There will be other tanks.
 
Amanda, have you tried to corroborate your parameters with another type of test or in an LFS?
No my lfs doesn't do testing other than strips and I'm using salifert test kits.
 
I've heard that it is very difficult to reseal it though. Is that true?
Would you seal over existing or strip and reseal? If you cut out the old silicone, use painter's tape to make clean edges then run a decent bead. If you are sealing over existing, just put a nice layer over the old stuff. I think cutting out the old would be the recommended course of action.
 
Would you seal over existing or strip and reseal? If you cut out the old silicone, use painter's tape to make clean edges then run a decent bead. If you are sealing over existing, just put a nice layer over the old stuff. I think cutting out the old would be the recommended course of action.
I'd probably get rid of the old silicone and reseal.
 
Would you seal over existing or strip and reseal? If you cut out the old silicone, use painter's tape to make clean edges then run a decent bead. If you are sealing over existing, just put a nice layer over the old stuff. I think cutting out the old would be the recommended course of action.
Personally if the seals look good and you fill it up and test it 24-48 hours and there are no issues I would use it and not reseal it.
 
No my lfs doesn't do testing other than strips and I'm using salifert test kits.
Nothing wrong with salifert test kits.
Nothing.
All I'm going to say is the money I invested in my hannas was some of the best money I spent in this hobby.
No more guessing.
However, some of them suck.
Like mag, calcium.
But, for MY big 3 I test for regularly, nitrate, phos and alk they're the bomb.
 
Nothing wrong with salifert test kits.
Nothing.
All I'm going to say is the money I invested in my hannas was some of the best money I spent in this hobby.
No more guessing.
However, some of them suck.
Like mag, calcium.
But, for MY big 3 I test for regularly, nitrate, phos and alk they're the bomb.
I plan on getting Hannas but it's just not in my budget right now.
 
Nothing wrong with salifert test kits.
Nothing.
All I'm going to say is the money I invested in my hannas was some of the best money I spent in this hobby.
No more guessing.
However, some of them suck.
Like mag, calcium.
But, for MY big 3 I test for regularly, nitrate, phos and alk they're the bomb.
What do you consider the most important tests?
 
Nothing wrong with salifert test kits.
Nothing.
All I'm going to say is the money I invested in my hannas was some of the best money I spent in this hobby.
No more guessing.
However, some of them suck.
Like mag, calcium.
But, for MY big 3 I test for regularly, nitrate, phos and alk they're the bomb.
Same 3 Hanna's I use.
 
What do you consider the most important tests?
Phosphate ULR for Hanna, pH pen, and any alkalinity. Nitrate is good and calcium is nice to verify.
 
What do you consider the most important tests?
Depends on what you want to know :thinking-face:
Say someone like Kev needs to know magnesium. It's important to how he runs his tank.
And look at his tank.
It's GORGEOUS :star-struck::star-struck:
Mine will never look like his.
For me it's alk and ph.
That's what my tank seems to care about.
Personally, I'd say nitrate #1,then phos and alk depending on what corals you are keeping.
But I think the most important tester for all reef tanks is a TDS meter for your RO system.
I honestly believe so many people have so many issues using bad water
Don't know if that helps Amanda.
 
Depends on what you want to know :thinking-face:
Say someone like Kev needs to know magnesium. It's important to how he runs his tank.
And look at his tank.
It's GORGEOUS :star-struck::star-struck:
Mine will never look like his.
For me it's alk and ph.
That's what my tank seems to care about.
Personally, I'd say nitrate #1,then phos and alk depending on what corals you are keeping.
But I think the most important tester for all reef tanks is a TDS meter for your RO system.
I honestly believe so many people have so many issues using bad water
Don't know if that helps Amanda.
Well for me the hardest test are the ones that compare colors on charts so I would probably replace those first. Lol
 
Nothing wrong with salifert test kits.
Nothing.
All I'm going to say is the money I invested in my hannas was some of the best money I spent in this hobby.
No more guessing.
However, some of them suck.
Like mag, calcium.
But, for MY big 3 I test for regularly, nitrate, phos and alk they're the bomb.
I know that salifert is not bad, I use them myself too, but some just come out bad. The thing is that IMO, the readings of her parameters are pretty good for how the corals look.
 
Would it be worth it to pay the extra $150 between these two?
1000006372.jpg
1000006373.jpg
 
Well for me the hardest test are the ones that compare colors on charts so I would probably replace those first. Lol
I used API my whole life so I know all about how hard the colors are to read.
 
Would it be worth it to pay the extra $150 between these two?
1000006372.jpg
1000006373.jpg
Honestly I would start with buying one say nitrate or phosphate, high range on both and see if you like them.
The master kit is wonderful for sure but some of the tests are very hard to use correctly and the magnesium test doesn't work very well if at all from what I've seen.
The api calcium test is very accurate, cheap and easy to use .
My opinion .
 
Honestly I would start with buying one say nitrate or phosphate, high range on both and see if you like them.
The master kit is wonderful for sure but some of the tests are very hard to use correctly and the magnesium test doesn't work very well if at all from what I've seen.
The api calcium test is very accurate, cheap and easy to use .
My opinion .
I have their copper tester and I love it so I'm sure I would love the others as well. So much easier than comparing colors...
 

IF YOU HAD TO TAKE A REEFING EXAM, WOULD YOU PASS?

  • Yes!

    Votes: 32 45.7%
  • Not yet, but I have one that I want to buy in mind!

    Votes: 9 12.9%
  • No.

    Votes: 26 37.1%
  • Other (please explain).

    Votes: 3 4.3%

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