1/4 inch bulkhead

Dtackett

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so what size hole would these need? I know theyre designed as dry fittings but I have can make a gasket for them easily. but what size would I need to drill the hole? im assuming 1/2 inch? or bigger?
 
The only ones I have seen and used are tapered pipe thread so you would have a tough time attaching and sealing it. They also don't have much of a flange or lip for a gasket to seal against. I installed a couple in my ATO storage Rubbermaid but screwed them into a larger tapered pipe thread bulkhead so it would seal. I think you are correct on the 1/2" though?
 
sealing wont be much of an issue as I can silicone it in place and it will only have the weight of 1 gallon of water pushing against it. maybe less depending on how I do it. really I just need a small bulkhead that I can run airline in and it seal. I saw the barbed bulkheads for airlines but those are too long for what I need and would show in my bowl. the coral is going great in my little 1 gallon bowl so ive officially started on my second, more elaborate bowl. im working on a plan on how I want to do it. I want everything hidden. so that means coming in from the bottom. I need to get 2 airlines and 1 heater line through the bottom and be able to seal. the heater will go through a waterproof stain relief and be a betta bowl heater. that's the easy part. getting the airlines in is the hard part, and being sure my one way valves don't fail will be a hard part as well. I haven't looked into different types of 1 way air valves but I don't think the normal 1 dollar ones are going to cut it. cant have it drain my tank.

anyway, so that's why I was thinking about these. theyre small, push connect, and I can seal them by means other than a gasket. they don't really need to be removable. but this could be your speciality mr. rat. what would you suggest to be able to get 1/4 inch airline through that would be water tight?
 
They make them with nuts as well I use them for my ato's. Can't remember where I bought them but almost positive I found them on a link some one from here gave me. Might be worth a search on this site.

There was a crazy amount of plumbing, odd ball items. One of the rare times I actually ordered everything I needed from one place.
 
Drill a 3/16 hole angle cut the line n force it thru it wont leak I did it in a 5 gallon bucket on the bottom for gravity fed e shops float valve I used 1/4 inch poly line
 
Quarter inch dot approved air brake line will work also it is a little bit more expensive but is a little thicker n is made for push lock fittings or compression fittings
 
They make them with nuts as well I use them for my ato's. Can't remember where I bought them but almost positive I found them on a link some one from here gave me. Might be worth a search on this site.

There was a crazy amount of plumbing, odd ball items. One of the rare times I actually ordered everything I needed from one place.

im not very good at searching on this forum site. lol ill check google and see what I can find that's better than what im looking at.

Drill a 3/16 hole angle cut the line n force it thru it wont leak I did it in a 5 gallon bucket on the bottom for gravity fed e shops float valve I used 1/4 inch poly line

the difference is I need to be able to remove it for maintenance. I have to move my tank downstairs each week for a drain and fill. each time I do this would damage any hose that's in direct contact to drilled glass. I have to have something else in contact and something easily removed.
 
Stick the line thru like I said n cut it about two inches away from the bottom and install a ball valve with poly locks to disconnect it for maintenance just disconnect it using the poly locks and u could use two valves n u wouldn't have to drain ur top off water and u could drain the bowl using the ball valve like flushing the toilet lol and if u use a adapter to use 3/8 line on the bowl valve n 1/4 on ur top off the 3/8 line has quarter inch inside diameter for better flow
 
ok, I understand most of what youre saying. its basically the same thing im planning except im not interested in sticking the airline directly through. what im not understanding is you talking about top off water... I don't have top off water. I don't top off...
 
right now this is the setup. im working on a better lid and thought about running the airlines through the lid. issue is itll look like crap. however I can build a stand for this out of a piece of large diameter PVC and run the airlines through the table, through the stand then through the bottom while having enough play in the hose to be able to pick it up to disconnect. im planning ball valves on the airline so when I do maintenance I can cut the water flow before it starts to drain. however I want something rigid on the bottom. that's why im looking at different types of bulkheads or different things to use as bulkheads. Im going to do this right the first time instead of having a disaster (if you can call 1 gallon of water a disaster) down the road by cutting corners. especially when doing it right will only cost me about 5-10 bucks more.

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