1" vs 3/4" return lines

BlueDevil

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Hi there. I am in the process of getting a custom 125 gal 5' long tank built and have a question on the size of return lines to use. I plan on having two returns, one on each back end. I will be using a Vectra L2 return pump run externally. From the pump to the return bulkhead will be about 4.5' with a couple of 90s to route the PVC.

With that background information, what size returns should I go with? Specifically, what size return holes should I use? In my tank plans that I submitted to the manufacturer, I requested 1" return holes. Now that I do some more research, I find that they don't make 1" male NPT connectors for the loc lines (3/4" in the largest). As such, did I create a mess by requesting 1" holes? In this case I guess the only option I have would be to connect a 1" to 3/4" reducer to the bulkhead and then attach the NPT connector to that? Or would be be better to go with 3/4" holes to start with? I don't believe the tank has been drilled yet so I might be able to change that up.

Thank you!
 
Hi there. I am in the process of getting a custom 125 gal 5' long tank built and have a question on the size of return lines to use. I plan on having two returns, one on each back end. I will be using a Vectra L2 return pump run externally. From the pump to the return bulkhead will be about 4.5' with a couple of 90s to route the PVC.

With that background information, what size returns should I go with? Specifically, what size return holes should I use? In my tank plans that I submitted to the manufacturer, I requested 1" return holes. Now that I do some more research, I find that they don't make 1" male NPT connectors for the loc lines (3/4" in the largest). As such, did I create a mess by requesting 1" holes? In this case I guess the only option I have would be to connect a 1" to 3/4" reducer to the bulkhead and then attach the NPT connector to that? Or would be be better to go with 3/4" holes to start with? I don't believe the tank has been drilled yet so I might be able to change that up.

Thank you!

VCA makes threaded 1" locline adapters and 1" locline (Modular Hose is what they call it) for that matter


Stick with the 1", it's much less restrictive on flow
 
Last edited:
VCA makes threaded 1" locline adapters and 1" locline (Modular Hose is what they call it) for that matter


Stick with the 1", it's much less restrictive on flow

That's awesome! Thanks for the link.

Is the outlet on the vectra 1 or 3/4. That would be what I based my decision on.

The Vectra L2 has a 1.25" outlet

I’d go 1inch.

Thank you. That's what I will do now that I see the 1" adapter.
 
I would not go 3/4 if the outlets 1.25. Too much restriction. The vectras do not like back pressure.

With the 1" adapter now available would this work: 1.25" line from pump outlet all the way up to the tank's return bulkhead and use a 1.25" to 1" adapter to go into the bulkhead?

Another related question - does anyone know of a place that sells flare nozzles to fit the 1" loc line? VCA doesn't seem to make any (they only have random flow generators) and none of the usual places that I am familiar with carry them either. I would prefer not to have a wide open 1" loc line as that might cause a fairly strong stream of water. Or am I overthinking it?
 
With the 1" adapter now available would this work: 1.25" line from pump outlet all the way up to the tank's return bulkhead and use a 1.25" to 1" adapter to go into the bulkhead?

Another related question - does anyone know of a place that sells flare nozzles to fit the 1" loc line? VCA doesn't seem to make any (they only have random flow generators) and none of the usual places that I am familiar with carry them either. I would prefer not to have a wide open 1" loc line as that might cause a fairly strong stream of water. Or am I overthinking it?
Should be just fine.

I personally like the random flow generators. Sorry not sure of a source for the others but I’m sure they are out there.
 
Should be just fine.

I personally like the random flow generators. Sorry not sure of a source for the others but I’m sure they are out there.

Thanks again. I still have a few weeks until the tank is ready so I will do some more digging on it. Or I might just go with the random flow generators as well. The only thing that made me think twice about it is some reviews about how they needed to be farther down the water line than flare nozzles else they create bubbles. That makes backflow into the sump when pumps go off a little trickier. I'm sure my sump (being a rubbermaid trough) can handle the excess water. What has your experience been in this regard?
 
Thanks again. I still have a few weeks until the tank is ready so I will do some more digging on it. Or I might just go with the random flow generators as well. The only thing that made me think twice about it is some reviews about how they needed to be farther down the water line than flare nozzles else they create bubbles. That makes backflow into the sump when pumps go off a little trickier. I'm sure my sump (being a rubbermaid trough) can handle the excess water. What has your experience been in this regard?
ive heard the same.I have not experienced bubbles but my experience with the random generators has been limited to smaller systems with smaller pumps. It’s possible those never pushed enough water to cause the problem you’ve described. In my larger set ups In the past the random flows weren’t a thing that I was aware of so can’t speak to them. I assume you will be testing a power outage though so you should be able to monitor the back flow to make sure your sump can handle it.
 
ive heard the same.I have not experienced bubbles but my experience with the random generators has been limited to smaller systems with smaller pumps. It’s possible those never pushed enough water to cause the problem you’ve described. In my larger set ups In the past the random flows weren’t a thing that I was aware of so can’t speak to them. I assume you will be testing a power outage though so you should be able to monitor the back flow to make sure your sump can handle it.

I will most certainly be testing a power outage event in terms of back flow into the sump. I am not overly concerned about the sump being able to handle the water. I plan on using a spears swing check valve on the return line in any case, and then my sump, which has a 100 gal capacity will likely only be filled with 50 gal so I should be fine there.
 
I will most certainly be testing a power outage event in terms of back flow into the sump. I am not overly concerned about the sump being able to handle the water. I plan on using a spears swing check valve on the return line in any case, and then my sump, which has a 100 gal capacity will likely only be filled with 50 gal so I should be fine there.

I would skip the check valves altogether...
 
Another option would be to use the VCA 1" to dual 3/4" and use regular locline from there, turn your 2 returns into 4....


That's a good idea that I might play around with as well. The only thing that gives me pause is that I don't want the back wall to look like a snake filled wall with 4 loc lines on the back. Worth a look into though to see how it really looks when installed.
 
I would skip the check valves altogether...

Any particular reason for that? I have always used check valves and they have served me well, when regularly maintained. Then again, all my tanks thus far have had smallish sumps since they were in-cabinet so back flow was a lot more of a concern there than in my new setup.
 
Any particular reason for that? I have always used check valves and they have served me well, when regularly maintained. Then again, all my tanks thus far have had smallish sumps since they were in-cabinet so back flow was a lot more of a concern there than in my new setup.

To me, check valves are great until they aren't... I would just forgo something that creates more work maintenance wise and even if maintained might still fail anyway. If you have roughly 50 gallons of empty space in your sump that should be TONS of room for any backflow. Save yourself some part money, install and maintenance time and just skip them :)
 
Thanks again. I still have a few weeks until the tank is ready so I will do some more digging on it. Or I might just go with the random flow generators as well. The only thing that made me think twice about it is some reviews about how they needed to be farther down the water line than flare nozzles else they create bubbles. That makes backflow into the sump when pumps go off a little trickier. I'm sure my sump (being a rubbermaid trough) can handle the excess water. What has your experience been in this regard?
They do need to be further down in the water. However, you can drill an 1/8” hole in the line loc or adapter that is situated close to the waterline, and when you turn your pump off it will allow air into the return preventing a big drain back into the sump.

and the 1/8” hole doesn’t have any negative effect on the RFG, I drilled mine right above the RFG, and it never sucks air anymore.
 
To me, check valves are great until they aren't... I would just forgo something that creates more work maintenance wise and even if maintained might still fail anyway. If you have roughly 50 gallons of empty space in your sump that should be TONS of room for any backflow. Save yourself some part money, install and maintenance time and just skip them :)

I agree with you. The sump being plenty big enough to handle the back flow I think the valve will be redundant.
 
They do need to be further down in the water. However, you can drill an 1/8” hole in the line loc or adapter that is situated close to the waterline, and when you turn your pump off it will allow air into the return preventing a big drain back into the sump.

and the 1/8” hole doesn’t have any negative effect on the RFG, I drilled mine right above the RFG, and it never sucks air anymore.

That's a good idea. Don't know why I didn't think of that since I used to have a loc line holes in one of my early setups.
 

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