kenand
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Is this pic ok?
10" rodi membrane 200 gpd
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Jamie814
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That is a RO unit not an RO/DI unit.
Do you know how old the membranes are? Depending on your source water 15 TDS out of the membrane may be the best you will get out of it without adding a DI canister after.
Lbrdsoxfan
5000 Club Member
This. I don't think the OP has ran resin or regularly tested it. I agree the 15ppm is gonna be about as good as it gets without resin. I run a single membrane 150gpd setup and I get about the same tds (10-15 tds) after the 4 stage and before the DI. I have between 330-350 tds coming into the 1st stage.
Opus
2500 Club Member
The 3 filters you changed aren't going to do anything for the tds. The 2 you didn't change are the ones that lower tds. The issue you most likely have is the fact the first ro membrane is feeding the second membrane. This means the "bad" water out of the first unit goes into the second unit, so it much higher tds than the first membrane gets. There is no way for us to know if the 15 out you are seeing is ok. We would need to know the tds of the water that is flowing into the second membrane. Also, you should be testing the tds of the water coming out into a clean cup, not your storage container.
Lbrdsoxfan
5000 Club Member
OP, watch the you tube video. It will help with the in and outs of a RO/di system.
Opus
2500 Club Member
I just switched over to a 150gpd membrane and I'm getting 7tds out with the same tds as you coming in. I decided to take the hit and wanted more water faster. My old 90gpd membrane was 2 to 3 tds out.
kenand
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So what is it? My son doesn't understand why is not. Could you elaborate?
Lbrdsoxfan
5000 Club Member
Main reason why I'm running a 150gpd as well, was willing to take a slight tds hit to put out just at 7 gallons a hour. I think I was at 5 or so tds with a 100 gpd membrane. I know I'm battling chloramine and a bit of hard water so I burn through mixed bed DI a bit fast(er) and I'm not using a dow branded membrane (IIRC 96 or 97 percent efficiency with the membranes I use) but meh... I'm not too worried about it, It works.
Lbrdsoxfan
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Watch the video I posted it will explain a lot.
kenand
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I don't see a video.
Lbrdsoxfan
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There is a you tube link, post #25, shows the basics on rodi setup and operation. Or Google Bulk reef supply and rodi.
kenand
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I'm doing it into a clean up. I just ordered the 2 membrane filters. Thanks fir the help.
kenand
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More than a year. But us this a ro or a rodi? It just reads ro or does that matter?
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Jamie814
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Like previously mentioned That is a RO unit it does not have the DI canister, but it is easy to add DI to it.
Single Deionization Canister
Single Stage deionization canister. Perfect for adding a DI stage to your RO system or adding an additional stage to your current system. Comes with the Canister, Cartridge full of DI resin, and 5 feet of 1/4" tube. Features Perfect for adding a DI stage to your RO system or adding an...
www.bulkreefsupply.com
200 gpd membrane:
www.buckeyehydro.com
Residential RO Membranes
At Buckeye Hydro we specialize in providing the highest quality water filtration systems and accessories for every potential need.
www.buckeyehydro.com
Jamie814
Active Member
If they have 2 membranes on the unit and it is a 200 gpd unit, don't they need two 100 gpd membranes?200 gpd membrane:
Residential RO Membranes
At Buckeye Hydro we specialize in providing the highest quality water filtration systems and accessories for every potential need.
Wouldn't they need to change the flow restrictors as well if they change both membranes to 200 gpd making the unit 400 gpd?
Using two 200 gpd membranes on a residential scale system is a non-starter. Don't even try it.
The tubing, fittings, housing ports are too small, and the flow is too much for itty bitty 10" x 2.5" prefilters.
The tubing, fittings, housing ports are too small, and the flow is too much for itty bitty 10" x 2.5" prefilters.
SteveMM62Reef
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Are you doing an After Flush by opening the Valve that came with your RO? Also you need to do a Start Flush by adding a Valve after the Clean Side of your RO, Flush from that point for about a minute, close and Slowly open your Final Valve to keep your DI Canisters full of Water. Chloramine just loves air to activate.
