100 + cube setup

[IAMC]

Purchasing a 30x30x30 cube without built in overflow box. Question is how many drains at what size should I do? How many return holes at what size should I do? I dont plan to install a overflow box.

Additional info:

2.5ft off the ground stand (acquired)
9.5 mag drive (acquired)
Refugium diy 10g (acquired)
Lights unknown
Wp20?
Temporarily for fowlr setup for unknown time period

Fish:
Pair African Flameback Angels (acquired)
Pair Flame wrasse
Pistol/Goby (acquired)

Do feel free to add any other opinions. Im upgrading from a nano so I am new to larger aquariums.

 

[dwolson2]

I would empty and drill it with 2 1"holes. Have one a siphon and the other emergency. If you really want to make it awesome, put 3 holes in it and turn it into a bean animal. I would do it first before you really start filling it up because after that, you won't tear it down to do it right.

 

[IAMC]

I would empty and drill it with 2 1"holes. Have one a siphon and the other emergency. If you really want to make it awesome, put 3 holes in it and turn it into a bean animal. I would do it first before you really start filling it up because after that, you won't tear it down to do it right.

I had the lfs drill and install 2 3/4 return and a 1.5" drain. This'll do?

 

[BeardedReefer]

I had the lfs drill and install 2 3/4 return and a 1.5" drain. This'll do?

You are asking for trouble using it in that way, you always want to have double the drain then your return. You have 1.5" of return so you want minimum 3" of drains preferably 3.5".

 

[IAMC]

You are asking for trouble using it in that way, you always want to have double the drain then your return. You have 1.5" of return so you want minimum 3" of drains preferably 3.5".

Hmm...well that was what was recommended by the lfs and it's been drilled. Hopefully it will work out. I'm not sure if I stated correctly above but the 2 returns are 1.5" (3/4" bulkhead) x 2 holes and drain is 2 3/8" hole (1.5 bulk head) x 1.

I'm feeling a bit nervous about the plumbing (newbie) but I gotta ask: Do I just run 1.5" pvc's straight from the 9.5 mag drive into a 1.5" T reducing into 3/4" going up the 2 returns? Gate valve necessary with the current holes? I have all the plumbings set up (unglued and just tight fit) to do a run test. Return is 2" pvc's all the way down with a bit of 45 degrees here and there.

 

[salmonshutters]

I would run it minimal diameter as long as possible so you keep as much head pressure as possible. For mine i have 1/2" until my bulkhead and then it increases to 3/4"

 

[BeardedReefer]

Hmm...well that was what was recommended by the lfs and it's been drilled. Hopefully it will work out. I'm not sure if I stated correctly above but the 2 returns are 1.5" (3/4" bulkhead) x 2 holes and drain is 2 3/8" hole (1.5 bulk head) x 1.

I'm feeling a bit nervous about the plumbing (newbie) but I gotta ask: Do I just run 1.5" pvc's straight from the 9.5 mag drive into a 1.5" T reducing into 3/4" going up the 2 returns? Gate valve necessary with the current holes? I have all the plumbings set up (unglued and just tight fit) to do a run test. Return is 2" pvc's all the way down with a bit of 45 degrees here and there.

Watch this video. The size of the drilled whole is irrelevant, thats just to fit the bulkhead, the internal diameter of the bulkhead is the size you have to worry about, you have two 3/4 holes that add up and make 1.5" of return, and one single drain that is 1.5", when you match drain and returns in size you will flood your tank, you always want to have double the drain as your return plus a .5" for comfort.

That video is very informative to water flow management and he demonstrates why. Any more questions feel free to ask.

 

[BeardedReefer]

Also as for your plumbing, Match it to the ID of the bulkhead, if its 3/4 use 3/4 plumbing.

 

[Eggs]

I got this figure off of a site many years ago, for use as an approximation: A 1 1/2" gravity fed drain gives you approx. 1300gph; from experience with an 1 1/2" drain, I think that is a little overestimated. However, a Mag 9.5 return pump should work well, but I would plumb in a "T" in case you want to dial back the return.
Your return plumbing should be at least the size of the 9.5 the outlet size, which is 3/4" mpt.
Your two 3/4" return holes should be fine. The return pump determines the flow back to the tank.

 

[BeardedReefer]

I got this figure off of a site many years ago, for use as an approximation: A 1 1/2" gravity fed drain gives you approx. 1300gph; from experience with an 1 1/2" drain, I think that is a little overestimated. However, a Mag 9.5 return pump should work well, but I would plumb in a "T" in case you want to dial back the return.
Your return plumbing should be at least the size of the 9.5 the outlet size, which is 3/4" mpt.
Your two 3/4" return holes should be fine. The return pump determines the flow back to the tank.

Thats the key word right there, your experience, every tank is different, so its better practice to follow the known science behind it, and you cant expect his to work as your have.

OP the key when dealing with LOTS OF WATER and your HOME, is always BE SAFE and over cautious and your tank will only benefit from extra water cycles an hour.

 

[Eggs]

Water flow related to hole size is straight foward science, irregardless of all tanks being different. The return pump determines how much water is returning to the tank; and as long as the return pump gph is not MORE than what is draining, it will be fine; that's why you put in a "T" and valve, to control the return.
A Mag 9.5 matches up very well for a 1 1/2" drain...those return holes only effect pressure.

 

[Eggs]

Thats the key word right there, your experience, every tank is different, so its better practice to follow the known science behind it, and you cant expect his to work as your have.

Regarding my experience, that refers to the 1 1/2" hole drain yeilding 1300gph gravity fed...this has nothing to do with all systems being different.
Your posts did nothing but confuse the OP. It's pretty straightfoward science here. The Mag 9.5 has a 3/4" outlet, and the OP will split that into two 3/4" returns...you can't put more water into the display tank than what the Mag 9.5 can do, UNLESS the the display is draining less than what the Mag 9.5 is pumping - the 1 1/2" drain hole should do that....but just in case, put a "T" and valve in to slow down the return gph.

 

[Eggs]

I had the lfs drill and install 2 3/4 return and a 1.5" drain. This'll do?

Yes. The concern is matching your return pump (Mag 9.5) to the 1.5" drain...the two 3/4" holes are fine.

If there is a concern about the Mag 9.5 being to much gph return, you could either (1) go with a lower rated return pump (i.e. Mag 7) or (2) plumb a "T" in above the return pump and install a valve on it...this would allow you to lower the return gph to the display tank, by feeding some of that water back to your sump; it's a pretty common set-up.

 

[BeardedReefer]

Regarding my experience, that refers to the 1 1/2" hole drain yeilding 1300gph gravity fed...this has nothing to do with all systems being different.
Your posts did nothing but confuse the OP. It's pretty straightfoward science here. The Mag 9.5 has a 3/4" outlet, and the OP will split that into two 3/4" returns...you can't put more water into the display tank than what the Mag 9.5 can do, UNLESS the the display is draining less than what the Mag 9.5 is pumping - the 1 1/2" drain hole should do that....but just in case, put a "T" and valve in to slow down the return gph.

You should really watch the video yourself Eggs, GPH is simple yes when matched in a perfect world. If not then issues will happen when drain and returns are of equal size, and with no drain redundancy there is no safety to prevent flooding if the single drain becomes even partially clogged. Also to consider is head height, the taller this is the Less GPH the pump is pushing to the tank. Also the 1300 GPH drain rate, way to many factors to consider for that number to be correct "EVERY TIME" again every tank is not plumbed the same therefore not the same results will ensue. How many curves/turns in the plumbing, how smooth is the plumbing all factor in to that "FLOW RATE".

Watch the video and listen to the man whose job it is to ensure aquarium plumbing is functional, redundant, and optimal for aquarium health make the recommendations. See he gets paid to be right on that subject and I think I'll keep my trust in the expert.

IAMC, you are talking 120+ gallons of water in your display then the extra in your sump, for your own ability to sleep at night, I recommend you watch the video I linked earlier and determine for yourself what works to make you happy and comfortable. I cant wait to see how it comes together.

 

[IAMC]

You should really watch the video yourself Eggs, GPH is simple yes when matched in a perfect world. If not then issues will happen when drain and returns are of equal size, and with no drain redundancy there is no safety to prevent flooding if the single drain becomes even partially clogged. Also to consider is head height, the taller this is the Less GPH the pump is pushing to the tank. Also the 1300 GPH drain rate, way to many factors to consider for that number to be correct "EVERY TIME" again every tank is not plumbed the same therefore not the same results will ensue. How many curves/turns in the plumbing, how smooth is the plumbing all factor in to that "FLOW RATE".

Watch the video and listen to the man whose job it is to ensure aquarium plumbing is functional, redundant, and optimal for aquarium health make the recommendations. See he gets paid to be right on that subject and I think I'll keep my trust in the expert.

IAMC, you are talking 120+ gallons of water in your display then the extra in your sump, for your own ability to sleep at night, I recommend you watch the video I linked earlier and determine for yourself what works to make you happy and comfortable. I cant wait to see how it comes together.

Watched the video and it was informative. But...the tank is already drilled. So how do I go about it? I purchased a gate valve and "T" it off from the return line back into the sump as stated by Eggs? Looks like that is the only option.

 

[BeardedReefer]

Watched the video and it was informative. But...the tank is already drilled. So how do I go about it? I purchased a gate valve and "T" it off from the return line back into the sump as stated by Eggs? Looks like that is the only option.

That is the easy part, its called a closed loop. What you do is take that T and put it on the out put of your pump. This creates two pathways for the water to travel leaving the pump, plumb the one side of the T too your two returns using a Y or another T. The other part of your T plumb back into your sump and put the gate valve in line here. This makes it so you can reduce the amount of water flow traveling back to your tank while putting ZERO stress on your pump. Just adjust the gate valve so that your input to the DT does not overflow the DT.

Another option which i recommend not doing would be to cap one of your returns and now you have a drain double your return, but with the size of your tank you wont get enough water cycles internal to the tank. I like to be around 10 times water quantity cycles. So with your 100g, you would want to see around 1000g cycles, that is how much water leaves your display tank gets filtered and travels back to your DT.

The final and probably best bet, would be to go get 1 more hole drilled, another 1.5" drain so your back at the double drain over return standard and you can then maximize your water cycles in the tank and sleep better at night with no worries.

 

[Eggs]

That is the easy part, its called a closed loop.

The description is correct for what you want to do....but that is not a "closed loop" - that is something completely different.

Why would you cap a return?....your return pump controls the water going back to the display.

 

[BeardedReefer]

The description is correct for what you want to do....but that is not a "closed loop" - that is something completely different.

Why would you cap a return?....your return pump controls the water going back to the display.

Because then he would be only using a single 3/4" return and that would enable him to have a drain double the size of the return instead of equal.

You say its not a closed loop but its what I know it as.

 

[Eggs]

A closed loop is placed on the back side of the tank; hole plumbed to a pump, which circulates that water back to tank through additional holes on the back wall of the tank - it doesn't go through the sump.

You do not control water flow to sump and back into the display tank by balancing the drain hole size to the return hole sizes. The water circulation is based off the gph from the drain and the return pump.

 

[Eggs]

Not my setup and a quick crude draw, but it will give you the idea. Keep in mind your sump design may be different.

Red arrow - return pump
Blue arrow - pvc "T"
Green arrow - valve

If the valve is closed, your pump is running full throttle with all water returning to your display tank. As you open the valve, you will reduce the amount going to the display - the amount reduced will return to the sump.