1000w+ Temperature Controller

Hugh Mann

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My new tank, roughly 300 gallons total volume between the tank and sump runs two 500 watt heaters. I noticed the temperature fluctuates 1f constantly, as the heaters thermostats are only accurate to that. Set to 80, heats to 80, shut off, turn back on at 79. Heaters are running almost constantly

Anyways, been looking at temperature controllers to hopefully get things a little more stable, but have run into an unexpected problem, that may or may not be a problem. Pretty much every controller I look at is only rated to 1100 watts max.

Basically, is it safe to be running a controller at 90-100% of its capacity constantly without burning it out?

If not, Anyone know of a controller that can handle more power, or should I bite the proverbial bullet and get two?

Also, yes, I know. I’m a bumbling fool who doesn’t know about the intricacies of electronics and all that. Dangit Jim, I’m a Janitor not an Electrician.
 
Been running 2x500w heaters off a single Ranco and it’s not been a problem. I think the relays are rated at 9.8A, which would make 1000W be about 85% load.
I looked up Ranco, and holy heck do they ever come with a price tag.

Beyond having a higher power rating, is there anything about Rancos that warrant a $150+ cost? Vs say, an Inkbird that is roughly a third the price?

This is the first I’ve ever heard of Ranco, so I know nothing about them.
 
I looked up Ranco, and holy heck do they ever come with a price tag.

Beyond having a higher power rating, is there anything about Rancos that warrant a $150+ cost? Vs say, an Inkbird that is roughly a third the price?

This is the first I’ve ever heard of Ranco, so I know nothing about them.

Longevity/reliability. These are commercial grade controllers, used for like restaurant refrigeration etc. Been around for decades, unchanged.

One thing to keep in mind is that they only go to single degree precision, so you cannot set them to like 88.5. And they do allow for about 0.5 degree swing. But they also cycle your heaters on/off less frequently.

For single-stage (heating only), you’d want the ETC 111000 which can be purchased for $100 pre-wired. You want the heat shrink tubing.

By the way, I looked it up and the single stage Rancos are actually rated to 16A (1,920W).
 
Rancos are old but true. Can't believe they cost that much. Lol.
I use the finnex 800 dial analog controller.
I'm only gonna use 600w on my 236g display upgrade. I think it will be enough.
D
 
I use them on my chillers at work in a weld shop that is an extremely dirty atmosphere and have never had a failure in ten plus years.

On my display tank i have two on two separate electrical circuits. The primary one is set to 78° with a differential of 1° F and the secondary is set to 78° with a differential of 2° F. I hardwire mine. The red receptacles are controlled by the controller.

IMG_2138.JPG



I purchase mine from Supplyhouse then water proof the sensor myself. I have a used Aqualogic branded Ranco on my coral QT tank that is also very nice.

 
Ranco is the cheapest thing that you are going to buy that actually lasts and does a good job. Industrial grade. You can also feel confident in buy used ones since they are so reliable.

In all seriousness, you cannot even put an inkbird and a ranco on the same level.
 
Also Johnson Controls has nice Industrial Controllers. BTW, Several years ago I saw a very large aquarium. He heated it off of his Gas Water Heater. Had a small circulation pump, push the water through a PEX loop in the sump. Had a controller for the pump, and one for a Three way Solenoid valve, as a redundancy to prevent overheating.
 
I always bought mine un wired for less and wired them up myself, not to hard. I have a dual unit that i use for my metal halides That i bought 10 years ago, replaced the probe once. it's set up to turn on a fan if water is hot and turn off halides if the fan is not able to cool the water. have a 2nd that runs heater. I also have a inkbird no comparison not even close mines in a box can't trust it.
 
I use them on my chillers at work in a weld shop that is an extremely dirty atmosphere and have never had a failure in ten plus years.

On my display tank i have two on two separate electrical circuits. The primary one is set to 78° with a differential of 1° F and the secondary is set to 78° with a differential of 2° F. I hardwire mine. The red receptacles are controlled by the controller.

IMG_2138.JPG



I purchase mine from Supplyhouse then water proof the sensor myself. I have a used Aqualogic branded Ranco on my coral QT tank that is also very nice.

I purchased the ranco and shrink tubing for the sensor. But the tubing won't shrink/seal at the end. What's the trick to getting it sealed? Or the easy way to get the tubing up the wire, that took forever and have another unit to do
 
I purchased the ranco and shrink tubing for the sensor. But the tubing won't shrink/seal at the end. What's the trick to getting it sealed? Or the easy way to get the tubing up the wire, that took forever and have another unit to do

I did not use shrink tube to cover the sensor. I made titanium wells and epoxied the thermocouple in the titanium
 
“That is beyond me, lol. Never welded titanium.”
My FIL Had a Titanium Pill Bottle on a Key Chain for his Nitroglycerin. I think the Probe would fit in one of those.
 
I purchased the ranco and shrink tubing for the sensor. But the tubing won't shrink/seal at the end. What's the trick to getting it sealed? Or the easy way to get the tubing up the wire, that took forever and have another unit to do

I never purchased the tubing directly from Ranco (I used my own), but it should be easy to weld the opening shut. Just take something really hot, like a soldering iron, and press firmly at the end.
 
That is beyond me, lol. Never welded titanium.

No welding just epoxy in a drilled hole. The temp probes on the Aqualogic look like the are a piece of titanium tubing filled with epoxy. I should have done it that way much easier then drill the rod.

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