120G plumbing sizing sanity check.

[AbjectMaelstroM]

After going back and forth for a while, I've settled on 1 inch diameter plumbing for my 120 gallon reef tank. Just want to make sure that everything's kosher before I start laying things out and ordering parts.

This will be for an exotic marine overflow 20" and with 2 returns running off of a manifold. Return pump is planned to be VarioS6.

The Overflow drop down plumbing is 1 inch diameter for all three siphon, so I figured I would use one in plumbing for everything just to minimize number of different size fittings. For returns, I will run one in up to the tank bulkhead then it will be reduced to a 3/4 inch locline. Is 1" for manifold good enough or should I go bigger and reduce to 1" coming out (not a huge fan of this, but for the good of the tank I will).

Any glaring issues with this? Anything you guys would do different?

 

[motortrendz]

I wouldn't use the same size returns as your drains. The drains are gravity fed and the returns are under pressure. The drains work keep up with the volume from the returns. I would run 3/4 returns. If your dong a manifold 1" plumbing with 1/2 or 3/4 outlets are good. The larger manifold volume will allow for more stable and equalized pressure within the manifold when you open and close different valves.

 

[motortrendz]

My manifold is 1" tees with 1/2" outlets and have 2- 1/4" john guest fittings for my calcium reactor and my acclimation drip line. I use a 3/4" inlet. And the rest are all 1/2" valve to barb outlets for reactors. Tmy return pump uses a 3/4 barb outlet and a barbed 3/4" tee to the manifold. The return is unobstructed 3/4. I use the pump(dc vectra M2) to pump the volume I need for my return flow and volume needed for the manifold.

 

[AbjectMaelstroM]

So keep siphons at 1", drop returns to 3/4 from manifold up to the tank? Possible make manifold 1-1/4 to give it more breathing room (reduction fittings would be a bit of a PIA) ?

Also is there a good way to plumb in a line to drain the DT for water changes? Ideally, I'd like to be able to drain (15-20%) DT volume directly into existing faucet drain plumbing that's on the other side of the wall from the tank. I thought about doing it off of the manifold and just have the return push out x amount of water, but I would guess that wouldn't work as once the water level gets below the overflow it's no longer will drain.

Anyone have any ideas or suggestions?

 

[Ross B Reef'n]

Have a look at this chart. Particularly the GPH gravity fed column in green.

#1 FlexPVC®.com Water Flow Charts Based on Pipe Size (GPM/GPH) ie, How much water can flow through Sch 40 Pvc Pipe Size 1/2" 3/4" 1" 1.5" 2" 2.5" 3" 4" 6"

Water Flow Volume for a given pipe size based on charts, tables, formula, nomograph, & experience.

flexpvc.com

As long as your return volume capacity is greater than the supply rate, you'll be good. Keep some buffer for peace of mind. Also keep in mind that the inlet diameter of the overflow must match the pipe size to achieve the matching gravity flow rate.

 

[AbjectMaelstroM]

Have a look at this chart. Particularly the GPH gravity fed column in green.

#1 FlexPVC®.com Water Flow Charts Based on Pipe Size (GPM/GPH) ie, How much water can flow through Sch 40 Pvc Pipe Size 1/2" 3/4" 1" 1.5" 2" 2.5" 3" 4" 6"

Water Flow Volume for a given pipe size based on charts, tables, formula, nomograph, & experience.

flexpvc.com

As long as your return volume capacity is greater than the supply rate, you'll be good. Keep some buffer for peace of mind. Also keep in mind that the inlet diameter of the overflow must match the pipe size to achieve the matching gravity flow rate.

Solid info there, thank you. Looks like I should be good with 3/4 and 1" everywhere else.

 

[JoshH]

After going back and forth for a while, I've settled on 1 inch diameter plumbing for my 120 gallon reef tank. Just want to make sure that everything's kosher before I start laying things out and ordering parts.

This will be for an exotic marine overflow 20" and with 2 returns running off of a manifold. Return pump is planned to be VarioS6.

The Overflow drop down plumbing is 1 inch diameter for all three siphon, so I figured I would use one in plumbing for everything just to minimize number of different size fittings. For returns, I will run one in up to the tank bulkhead then it will be reduced to a 3/4 inch locline. Is 1" for manifold good enough or should I go bigger and reduce to 1" coming out (not a huge fan of this, but for the good of the tank I will).

Any glaring issues with this? Anything you guys would do different?

I'd stick with 1" drains and return plumbing if you're reducing to 3/4" locline at the end anyway. I agree 1" for the manifold then reducing to whatever size works for the equipment. You have a solid original plan and it will work great as is!

 

[AbjectMaelstroM]

Any thoughts ony waterchange drain idea? Did a few searches but I guess I'm not looking for the right terminology.

 

[JoshH]

Any thoughts ony waterchange drain idea? Did a few searches but I guess I'm not looking for the right terminology.

I wouldn't drain from the DT I would drain from your sump if you can. I would try and calculate how much water drains into your sump when the returns are shut off and then turn on your manifold pump and pump the water into the drain you were talking about. Hopefully what drains into your sump plus what would be pulled out where the pump is located would equate to 15-20% of your volume.

 

[motortrendz]

I did it in my sump I'm building I used a totally separate chamber that's run off the manifold and gravity feeds back into the skimmer section. It has a low drain that will be plumbed to my drain... so I turn off the manifold feed, let it settle which is about a 15gal volume in my system. Open the low drain and itll empty the chamber. Once its drained close the drain valve. Fill the chamber with newly made saltwater and turn back on the manifold valve. Thatll let it flow back into the skimmer section and incorporate it into the system again.

 

[Ross B Reef'n]

You could do it to either the supply or drain lines with a tee fitting and a ball valve. You will only be able to drain to the height of the respective line in the tank. If your doing it on supply line. Place the ball valve and tee above the check valve

 

[Ross B Reef'n]

I wouldn't drain from the DT I would drain from your sump if you can. I would try and calculate how much water drains into your sump when the returns are shut off and then turn on your manifold pump and pump the water into the drain you were talking about. Hopefully what drains into your sump plus what would be pulled out where the pump is located would equate to 15-20% of your volume.

I second this.

 

[motortrendz]

Here's a quick rendering from my phone. Gona actually build this this weekend. Just got my acrylic sheet in today.

 

[AbjectMaelstroM]

I wouldn't drain from the DT I would drain from your sump if you can. I would try and calculate how much water drains into your sump when the returns are shut off and then turn on your manifold pump and pump the water into the drain you were talking about. Hopefully what drains into your sump plus what would be pulled out where the pump is located would equate to 15-20% of your volume.

OK, I kind of like this. To make sure I have the grasp on this, sorry I'm not firing on all cylinders today haha.

Have a line that runs off of the manifold and goes into the sump (which area, does it matter? Skimmer, fuge, return chamber?). Then have another T off the manifold that has a small pump on it and connects into the faucet drain.

Turn off the return, let whatever drains, drain into the sump, then open the valve for the line the drops into the sump and the valve thats connected to the manifold pump, turn the pump on and drain whatever is in the sump?

Sorry if I have this jacked up, I just can't visualize it in my head. Might have to wait till I get home and get some stuff on paper.

 

[AbjectMaelstroM]

With a good night's sleep, a quick early morning run, shower and a cup of coffee I've decided to forego the water change plumbing.

Primarily because wife politely pointed out that the tank, being in the dining room, is aprox 8 ft from the kitchen sink. Sometimes you just have to get a fresh pair of eyes on the problem ;Bookworm. So, how I'm going to deal with waterchnage is a python hose hooked up to a pump so I can suck nastiness out of the sand and off of aquascape as I chnage the water into the kitchen sink. Then, use the same hose to suck fresh SW out of the mixing brute back into the sump/DT. No buckets!