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- Dec 19, 2016
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Hey R2R!
Here is a 120g reef with 30g sump setup. The tank was setup 2 weeks ago and is currently cycling.
Tank, Rock and Sand:
-120g DT. I installed a black piece of 1/4" acrylic on the back of the inside of the tank for aesthetics.
-100lbs fiji pink live sand
-Approx 110lbs of dry rock
-Approx 10lbs of live rock from my other established reef tank.
My Parameters so far: Test Kit: API
Ammonia-.25ppm (from 2ppm)
Nitrite- 2-3ppm
Nitrate- 20ppm
Definitely right in the beginning to middle of the cycle. As soon at the nitrates start getting a little higher i might start doing some smaller water changed to bring them down.
For Mag, I use a red sea test kit. I used to use red sea for all testing. I ended up testing less because I couldn't stand how annoying the red sea test kits were. Even if in reality, the API test kits are less accurate, I test more. If I find a problem, i ALWAYS double check with either the LFS or another kit.
Note: I did use 3 32oz bottles of Fritzzyme 9. I added the bottle on day one, let the tank settle for a couple days, and then started dosing pure ammonia to the system. I was able to maintain 2ppm (only needed to dose a couple times) for the week. I stopped dosing when i started seeing nitrites. I also added a pinch of flake food to add some phosphates (per the support staff Fritzzyme).
Water Flow:
-Two PP20 wave makers that are linked together
-One is set to 30%, the other is at 20%. Both placed on opposite sides of the tank.
-eFlux 1900GPH DC pump. It is currently set to operate at roughyl 60% of its capacity.
Filtration:
-Overflow box in the DT is running into a filter sock. I was concerned about the noise at first. So after about 10 attempts I made a drain/vent that similiar to a Durso drain. However, mine is virtually silent.
-Simplicity 240DC skimmer (not currently being ran during the cycle)
-Bio Pellet reactor
-Carbon Reactor
-BRS reactor (not currently being used)
Lighting:
-3 kessil A360W tuna blue lights controlled with a kessil controller.
-Lights are currently not being ran during the cycle process.
Heater:
-400W aquatop heater with digital display
ATO and Water:
-Tunze ATO 3155
-10G Rubbermaid recycling bin used as reservoir
-I use the RO Buddy filter with a DI addition. Its slow, but the water is consistently showing 0 on my TDS meter. Ive been using it for a couple years, and just as long as i maintain the filter, it seems to be fine.
Misc:
-I am running a 10g hospital tank under the DT (been up and running for over a month). Obviously not connected to anything on the DT, I plan on using it for every fish purchase.
-UPS Battery backup for the Main Pump and hospital tank pump only
-Nest camera for the main tank,
-Nest camera for the filter chamber
-Nest camera for the hospital tank
Here is a 120g reef with 30g sump setup. The tank was setup 2 weeks ago and is currently cycling.
Tank, Rock and Sand:
-120g DT. I installed a black piece of 1/4" acrylic on the back of the inside of the tank for aesthetics.
-100lbs fiji pink live sand
-Approx 110lbs of dry rock
-Approx 10lbs of live rock from my other established reef tank.
My Parameters so far: Test Kit: API
Ammonia-.25ppm (from 2ppm)
Nitrite- 2-3ppm
Nitrate- 20ppm
Definitely right in the beginning to middle of the cycle. As soon at the nitrates start getting a little higher i might start doing some smaller water changed to bring them down.
For Mag, I use a red sea test kit. I used to use red sea for all testing. I ended up testing less because I couldn't stand how annoying the red sea test kits were. Even if in reality, the API test kits are less accurate, I test more. If I find a problem, i ALWAYS double check with either the LFS or another kit.
Note: I did use 3 32oz bottles of Fritzzyme 9. I added the bottle on day one, let the tank settle for a couple days, and then started dosing pure ammonia to the system. I was able to maintain 2ppm (only needed to dose a couple times) for the week. I stopped dosing when i started seeing nitrites. I also added a pinch of flake food to add some phosphates (per the support staff Fritzzyme).
Water Flow:
-Two PP20 wave makers that are linked together
-One is set to 30%, the other is at 20%. Both placed on opposite sides of the tank.
-eFlux 1900GPH DC pump. It is currently set to operate at roughyl 60% of its capacity.
Filtration:
-Overflow box in the DT is running into a filter sock. I was concerned about the noise at first. So after about 10 attempts I made a drain/vent that similiar to a Durso drain. However, mine is virtually silent.
-Simplicity 240DC skimmer (not currently being ran during the cycle)
-Bio Pellet reactor
-Carbon Reactor
-BRS reactor (not currently being used)
Lighting:
-3 kessil A360W tuna blue lights controlled with a kessil controller.
-Lights are currently not being ran during the cycle process.
Heater:
-400W aquatop heater with digital display
ATO and Water:
-Tunze ATO 3155
-10G Rubbermaid recycling bin used as reservoir
-I use the RO Buddy filter with a DI addition. Its slow, but the water is consistently showing 0 on my TDS meter. Ive been using it for a couple years, and just as long as i maintain the filter, it seems to be fine.
Misc:
-I am running a 10g hospital tank under the DT (been up and running for over a month). Obviously not connected to anything on the DT, I plan on using it for every fish purchase.
-UPS Battery backup for the Main Pump and hospital tank pump only
-Nest camera for the main tank,
-Nest camera for the filter chamber
-Nest camera for the hospital tank
What do you guys think??

