14g (now 20g) Anemone/Ricordea/Goby Cube

[Matt Miller]

Looks good!

You've had better luck with rock flowers than me, none of mine have survived.

 

[TriggersAmuck]

Looks good!

You've had better luck with rock flowers than me, none of mine have survived.

Thanks! Still more algae than would care to have at this point (emphasized when I turn up the white lighting for photos....doesn't look nearly as bad under typical AB+ spectrum).

Anemones are funny in that regard. With this tank the flower nems thrive, while BTAs struggle (I have lost many save for these three). In my former 125 gallon tank I had a very sizable rose anemone that refused to die despite my best (lack of) efforts. They are definitely more challenging than a lot of typical corals, IMHO.

 

[Matt Miller]

Thanks! Still more algae than would care to have at this point (emphasized when I turn up the white lighting for photos....doesn't look nearly as bad under typical AB+ spectrum).

Anemones are funny in that regard. With this tank the flower nems thrive, while BTAs struggle (I have lost many save for these three). In my former 125 gallon tank I had a very sizable rose anemone that refused to die despite my best (lack of) efforts. They are definitely more challenging than a lot of typical corals, IMHO.

That's strange flowers love it but bubbles don't. I'm hoping I have the opposite problem lol. I plan on adding a BTA to my cube soon and am pretty nervous about it.

Are you still happy you moved up with a waterbox? It definitely looks less crowded in there.

 

[TriggersAmuck]

Absolutely happy with the WB20 Clear Mini. (Non AIO version). It is much more sturdily built than the 14g Aqueon tank, as is the stand (even though the stand is made by the same manufacturer - Coralife). This is one of those funny cases where I chose the tank (after the fact) based on the size of the rock structure, instead of fitting a rock structure to the size of the tank. But you know, once a tank has been set up over a year, do you really want to go back to scratch? Heck no!

I hear you regards wanting success with the clown/BTA pairing. 2 of my 3 current BTAs have been in this tank for about a year and a half, so I think it is safe to say they are here to stay. I wish I could pin down what the issues were with the many others I added. One could say the tank wasn't stable enough yet, but then again two of these were some of the first added. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

 

[NoahLikesFish]

Update 8/2/2021

Because a movie is worth a thousand pictures is worth a thousand words:

is there a condydactilys in there?

 

[TriggersAmuck]

is there a condydactilys in there?

No condies. Only BTAs and Rock 'nems.

 

[TriggersAmuck]

Update August 18 -

Added:

• Yellow Clown Goby
• Trimma Goby
• Coral Banded Shrimp
• Pink Rock 'nems
• Green Star Polyps (oops?)

 

[Matt Miller]

Update August 18 -

Added:

• Yellow Clown Goby
• Trimma Goby
• Coral Banded Shrimp
• Pink Rock 'nems
• Green Star Polyps (oops?)

Looks good, love those rock nems!

I really like how open the bottom of your rockwork is.

 

[TriggersAmuck]

Lesson number 931+:
When your tank's surface is showing film (and you have both a surface skimmer and excellent circulation) act on it right away.

Lesson number 932+:
When your Nero 5 is flashing red, don't just restart it. It might have a rock anemone staying on vacation amongst its blades (mine did). Not sure how on earth it managed to attach itself to the blade without creating an anemone milkshake, but somehow it did. And when I did restart the pump, I saw bits of all too familiar flesh streaming through the tank. Fortunately it was just a minor flesh wound (tribute to you Monty Python fans), and *maybe* it will have a chance at recovering.

 

[Matt Miller]

Lesson number 931+:
When your tank's surface is showing film (and you have both a surface skimmer and excellent circulation) act on it right away.

Lesson number 932+:
When your Nero 5 is flashing red, don't just restart it. It might have a rock anemone staying on vacation amongst its blades (mine did). Not sure how on earth it managed to attach itself to the blade without creating an anemone milkshake, but somehow it did. And when I did restart the pump, I saw bits of all too familiar flesh streaming through the tank. Fortunately it was just a minor flesh wound (tribute to you Monty Python fans), and *maybe* it will have a chance at recovering.

I have a snail problem with mine, they reproduce like mad and get stuck in it all the time.

Sounds like you got lucky with it attached to a blade lol. Hopefully it makes a full recovery.

I still don't have a skimmer, did you get your problem taken care of in time with this?

 

[TriggersAmuck]

The surface film was only there because the Nero wasn't functioning. As soon as I discovered the error light and removed the attached anemone, the surface was clean as can be. Now I know: Just having the AquaClear and the Tunze 9012 (that't the big surface skimmer, well overrated for this tank) wouldn't take care of that film. It needs additional surface agitation.

On my small 7.5 gallon reef I have a simple Eheim surface skimmer (Skim350) which I put in more for increased circulation (like a small powerhead), but it does an AMAZING job of clearing the surface.

 

[TriggersAmuck]

Update September 15 -

20g:

• Added:
  • Pink Streak Wrasse
  • 2 Rainbow/Rose Anemones (about 2 weeks ago)
• Notable:
  • The nudibranches added on August 5 have already wiped out all but one Aiptasia. Amazing! Got these nudis from ReefTown.com.

7.5g:

• Added:
  • 3 pink feather dusters
  • 5 Tiger Trochus snails (already wiped most of the cyano from the bare glass bottom)
  • Cleaner Shrimp
  • 2 Neon Star Polyp bunches (added 2 weeks ago)

 

[Matt Miller]

Update September 15 -

20g:

• Added:
  • Pink Streak Wrasse
  • 2 Rainbow/Rose Anemones (about 2 weeks ago)
• Notable:
  • The nudibranchs added on August 5 have already wiped out all but one Aiptasia. Amazing! Got these nudis from ReefTown.com.

7.5g:

• Added:
  • 3 pink feather dusters
  • 5 Tiger Trochus snails (already wiped most of the cyano from the bare glass bottom)
  • Cleaner Shrimp
  • 2 Neon Star Polyp bunches (added 2 weeks ago)

Wtg Nudis!

I've been thinking about adding some feather dusters, how do you like them so far?

 

[TriggersAmuck]

Wtg Nudis!

I've been thinking about adding some feather dusters, how do you like them so far?

Total fail so far! LOL. They haven't come out at all, so either they died in transit or else they are still deciding if it safe to come out with their hands up. These were shipped from CA, so maybe purchasing them locally would be a better chance of success.

 

[TriggersAmuck]

Ooops, the cryptic wrasse I added yesterday may be a known assassin of nudibranches. :/ Guess they better hurry up and eat the last Aiptasia before the wrasse finishes his welcome meal.

 

[TriggersAmuck]

Wow, I got to experience the wonderful world of dinoflagellates for the very first time over the past few weeks. Highish Phosphates (0.13) combined with completely flatlined Nitrate (0.000000000000....). Completely ticked off corals/anemones, a clown fish scratching itself. You get the idea. My strategy so far has been this:

• Removal of Marinepure Gems bio media from my hang on back filter. Seemed like a good idea at the time to have these at the ready for an instant quarantine tank or other, but in hindsight they probably contributed to the NO3 flattening out.
• Daily blasting of the strands and subsequent rinsing/cleaning of my HOB filter sponge and skimmer to promote physical removal of the Dinos as best as possible.
• Daily heavy feeding of meat-centric foods to bring up the nitrates while limiting high Phosphate foods (pellets, ReefRoids, etc). At last test Nitrates were measuring 0.2ppm. More room to grow.
• Added a Chemipure Elite bag into the HOB to try to bring the Phosphates down a bit.
• Last week I started raising the temperature slowly, bringing it up to 82° as of today. Many have reported empirical success with this (in combination with other approaches of course).
• Just got my microsope off of eBay today, so I'll be diagnosing shortly.
• Did the coffee filter test to filter the Dinos and confirm they regrouped within the hour.
• Just got in some medical grade sodium nitrate per Randy Holmes-Farley's recommendation, so if the heavy feedings don't prove to be enough there is that.
• I just got in an OASE Biomaster canister filter (the only one I have found with a really easy to use pre-filter so that it doesn't turn into a Nitrate factory, ironically) to be coupled with a 15 watt Aqua Advantage hang on back UV sterilizer. I had been thinking of adding the OASE for its efficient mechanical removal, but now with the need to do UV sterilization this is my best solution (compared to adding a sump or using an in-tank pump). This will be combined with a glass lily pipe surface skimmer more commonly used in planted freshwater tanks.

Even before starting those last few items, I'm already seeing a bit of improvement. Dinos are still apparent but in less gross numbers, and the anemones are all looking much happier. Hopefully with these last few steps and continued monitoring I will beat this Red Tide of aquariums.

 

[Matt Miller]

Wow, I got to experience the wonderful world of dinoflagellates for the very first time over the past few weeks. Highish Phosphates (0.13) combined with completely flatlined Nitrate (0.000000000000....). Completely ticked off corals/anemones, a clown fish scratching itself. You get the idea. My strategy so far has been this:

• Removal of Marinepure Gems bio media from my hang on back filter. Seemed like a good idea at the time to have these at the ready for an instant quarantine tank or other, but in hindsight they probably contributed to the NO3 flattening out.
• Daily blasting of the strands and subsequent rinsing/cleaning of my HOB filter sponge and skimmer to promote physical removal of the Dinos as best as possible.
• Daily heavy feeding of meat-centric foods to bring up the nitrates while limiting high Phosphate foods (pellets, ReefRoids, etc). At last test Nitrates were measuring 0.2ppm. More room to grow.
• Added a Chemipure Elite bag into the HOB to try to bring the Phosphates down a bit.
• Last week I started raising the temperature slowly, bringing it up to 82° as of today. Many have reported empirical success with this (in combination with other approaches of course).
• Just got my microsope off of eBay today, so I'll be diagnosing shortly.
• Did the coffee filter test to filter the Dinos and confirm they regrouped within the hour.
• Just got in some medical grade sodium nitrate per Randy Holmes-Farley's recommendation, so if the heavy feedings don't prove to be enough there is that.
• I just got in an OASE Biomaster canister filter (the only one I have found with a really easy to use pre-filter so that it doesn't turn into a Nitrate factory, ironically) to be coupled with a 15 watt Aqua Advantage hang on back UV sterilizer. I had been thinking of adding the OASE for its efficient mechanical removal, but now with the need to do UV sterilization this is my best solution (compared to adding a sump or using an in-tank pump). This will be combined with a glass lily pipe surface skimmer more commonly used in planted freshwater tanks.

Even before starting those last few items, I'm already seeing a bit of improvement. Dinos are still apparent but in less gross numbers, and the anemones are all looking much happier. Hopefully with these last few steps and continued monitoring I will beat this Red Tide of aquariums.

Wow, scary stuff.
Sounds like you know what you're doing at least. I think I'd get lost in all that lol
Hopefully still on the upswing?

 

[TriggersAmuck]

Tested yesterday, and Nitrate is up to a comfy 2ppm and Phosphate is down to 0.03. So probably could use a bit more cushion for both of those (higher in both instances), but the anemones are looking happy for a reason. I don't think I will dose nitrates (Sodium Nitrate) as much as just continue very generous feedings. The Dinos continue to come down in numbers such that only at certain times of day am I even aware that there is still a small presence.

I made a fresh batch of seawater last night, so hopefully today I will replace the HOB filter with the OASE canister coupled with Aqua UV. One lesson coming out of this is that I really should periodically test. One gets used to a routine, and while everything seems to be doing ok it is a tempting to let go of the testing. But then you don't have visibility to slow, long term trends until undesired symptoms eventually rear their heads.

 

[TriggersAmuck]

Update November 23 -

20g: Dinos appear to be eradicated! I never thought I would be so happy to see flourishing algae (a sign it is able to outcompete the Dinos). Last week I finally installed the Oase Biomaster 350 canister filter and Aqua Advantage 15watt HOB UV light with a surface skimming glass lily pipe for an input. The surface of the water looks so so clear now! This filter is so easy to open up and get to the prefilter (really the main reason I got it), and with 5 circular pipe sponges (versus my prior AquaClear's 1 sponge) it really polishes the water. I purchased the finer 60ppi sponges as an upgrade to the stock 45ppi ones. Anyone worried about it becoming a nitrate factory doesn't need to worry, as I run it with nothing but the prefilter sponges (which will get rinsed every few days just as I did the AquaClear) and carbon. So from that standpoint there is a lot of under utilized volume to the filter, but it also does add about 10% more gallonage to the system (and allows the attachment of the UV without a sump).

All anemones and livestock are looking as happy (and better colored) as ever, the true measure of progress.

 

[TriggersAmuck]

Happy Thanksgiving Weekend Everyone! Another long overdue video update: