OP
OP
TriggersAmuck
Well-Known Member
Which light and equipment did you go with? Always interesting to see different setups.
14g (now 20g) Anemone/Ricordea/Goby Cube
- Nano Build
- Thread starter TriggersAmuck
- Start date
- Tagged users None
Which light and equipment did you go with? Always interesting to see different setups.
OP
OP
TriggersAmuck
Well-Known Member
Early December update:
While this setup continues to be very easy, it also has at least a couple challenges. First, with this being a FOWLR setup I keep the tank lighting on from only 4pm until midnight at fairly low, blueish intensity, with only a brief peak in whites for viewing purposes for a half hour around dinner time (8pm-ish). One result is that there is really no trace of algae either on the rock work or the glass. I scrape a very light film off of the glass about once a month.
The challenges are two-fold. First, the Chaeto is not growing the way it was initially. I slowly ramped the photoperiod from 4 hours at first up to 14, then I backed it down to 10 hours after seeing some minor bleaching. I also increased the flow rate a bit in the AquaClear to make sure there is adequate heat removal. So the jury is still out as to how well that setup (AquaClear + grow light + InTank media basket) is going to do.
The second challenge is that I still have lingering Nitrite (NO2) levels that have been below 1ppm. While this won't affect any of the current livestock, it would be nice to see this settle out in normal fashion. The bare bottom approach definitely contributes to this. The Nitrate (NO3) levels are higher than I would like for this point in the tank's lifecycle (between 16 and 32). Nothing some good water changes can't take care of, but clearly this rate of production is a bit higher than desirable.
Today I changed out the Sicce powerhead (Voyager Nano 1000) with one double the flow rate (the 2000). I noticed that there was not enough current in the rear of the tank, and rather than add an additional pump and take up what little space a nano offers I would first try this approach.
While this setup continues to be very easy, it also has at least a couple challenges. First, with this being a FOWLR setup I keep the tank lighting on from only 4pm until midnight at fairly low, blueish intensity, with only a brief peak in whites for viewing purposes for a half hour around dinner time (8pm-ish). One result is that there is really no trace of algae either on the rock work or the glass. I scrape a very light film off of the glass about once a month.
The challenges are two-fold. First, the Chaeto is not growing the way it was initially. I slowly ramped the photoperiod from 4 hours at first up to 14, then I backed it down to 10 hours after seeing some minor bleaching. I also increased the flow rate a bit in the AquaClear to make sure there is adequate heat removal. So the jury is still out as to how well that setup (AquaClear + grow light + InTank media basket) is going to do.
The second challenge is that I still have lingering Nitrite (NO2) levels that have been below 1ppm. While this won't affect any of the current livestock, it would be nice to see this settle out in normal fashion. The bare bottom approach definitely contributes to this. The Nitrate (NO3) levels are higher than I would like for this point in the tank's lifecycle (between 16 and 32). Nothing some good water changes can't take care of, but clearly this rate of production is a bit higher than desirable.
Today I changed out the Sicce powerhead (Voyager Nano 1000) with one double the flow rate (the 2000). I noticed that there was not enough current in the rear of the tank, and rather than add an additional pump and take up what little space a nano offers I would first try this approach.
Last edited:
OP
OP
TriggersAmuck
Well-Known Member
Late January Update:
We went out of state for a few weeks over the holidays, and when I returned the alkalinity was very low (below 5 dKH) and the Chaeto wasn't doing so hot despite NO3's nearing 50ppm. They probably got a little more food than they should have while we were gone! So a couple water changes later (so easy with this size tank) and the alk is closer to 8 and the nitrates are ~12ppm. The Chaeto seems happier and has sped up growth again.
On another note, this is the first time in months that the NO2 reads a true 0! I knew the fish weren't going to be affected by low levels, but it is nice to know the tank is getting closer to reaching some equilibrium.
So I want to give it a few more weeks to make sure the parameters are stable, and then I will proceed with adding the first bubble tip. The pair of clowns don't seem as cozy anymore, as the larger one tends to keep the other on one side of the tank. She doesn't bite or do anything physically abusive, but it does not look like they are really pairing up yet. Crossing my fingers that the smaller one hadn't already morphed to a female state prior to being introduced to the other. Also, the larger one is clearly growing at a faster rate (expected when changing sexes), and I'm bit worried as to whether she is going to outgrow the tank sooner than I expected.
I picked up a Tunze 3155 ATO before Christmas, and after seeing its size (in tank) decided that this isn't the way to go with such a small tank. Part of the joy of a nano is keeping it simple (not too much equipment to maintain or go south), and the visual real estate this ATO would take over just didn't justify my lazy desire to stop putting a small cup of DI water in the tank daily.
. I might look at smaller units, but I already have more equipment on this tank than I would really want.
We went out of state for a few weeks over the holidays, and when I returned the alkalinity was very low (below 5 dKH) and the Chaeto wasn't doing so hot despite NO3's nearing 50ppm. They probably got a little more food than they should have while we were gone! So a couple water changes later (so easy with this size tank) and the alk is closer to 8 and the nitrates are ~12ppm. The Chaeto seems happier and has sped up growth again.
On another note, this is the first time in months that the NO2 reads a true 0! I knew the fish weren't going to be affected by low levels, but it is nice to know the tank is getting closer to reaching some equilibrium.
So I want to give it a few more weeks to make sure the parameters are stable, and then I will proceed with adding the first bubble tip. The pair of clowns don't seem as cozy anymore, as the larger one tends to keep the other on one side of the tank. She doesn't bite or do anything physically abusive, but it does not look like they are really pairing up yet. Crossing my fingers that the smaller one hadn't already morphed to a female state prior to being introduced to the other. Also, the larger one is clearly growing at a faster rate (expected when changing sexes), and I'm bit worried as to whether she is going to outgrow the tank sooner than I expected.
I picked up a Tunze 3155 ATO before Christmas, and after seeing its size (in tank) decided that this isn't the way to go with such a small tank. Part of the joy of a nano is keeping it simple (not too much equipment to maintain or go south), and the visual real estate this ATO would take over just didn't justify my lazy desire to stop putting a small cup of DI water in the tank daily.
. I might look at smaller units, but I already have more equipment on this tank than I would really want.
Last edited:
OP
OP
TriggersAmuck
Well-Known Member
Early February Update:
Checked that water params are nice and stable, and so I went ahead and added 2 Green Bubble Tip Anemones as well as a bonded pair of Yellow Line Gobies, all from Live Aquaria Diver's Den. Both anemones stuck right away and have opened nicely.
I noticed that only two of the four delivery bags were fully blacked out, and I initially thought this was for the two gobies (bagged separately). Turns out the folks at LA know what they are doing, as it is clear to me after accidentally removing the black shielding from one anemone's bag that LA does this intentionally to keep the anemone bunched up (in its "ticked off" state) to make it easier to remove from the bag and position in the tank. The one that was exposed to light in the bag opened up pretty quickly while still bagged. (That is my guess anyways, as I can't think of why they would want complete darkness otherwise).
Will take some pictures later when the lights have come up.
Checked that water params are nice and stable, and so I went ahead and added 2 Green Bubble Tip Anemones as well as a bonded pair of Yellow Line Gobies, all from Live Aquaria Diver's Den. Both anemones stuck right away and have opened nicely.
I noticed that only two of the four delivery bags were fully blacked out, and I initially thought this was for the two gobies (bagged separately). Turns out the folks at LA know what they are doing, as it is clear to me after accidentally removing the black shielding from one anemone's bag that LA does this intentionally to keep the anemone bunched up (in its "ticked off" state) to make it easier to remove from the bag and position in the tank. The one that was exposed to light in the bag opened up pretty quickly while still bagged. (That is my guess anyways, as I can't think of why they would want complete darkness otherwise).
Will take some pictures later when the lights have come up.
OP
OP
TriggersAmuck
Well-Known Member
After a visit to a LFS, I added yet another few anemones, namely a Rose, a Green Bubble, and a H. Crispa. A few need to be nursed back to health from bleaching, so we'll see how that goes.
Last edited:
OP
OP
TriggersAmuck
Well-Known Member
I can now officially say that I know what people mean when they say the odor an anemone produces when it melts is simply more awful than about anything else imaginable (save for rotten Durian fruit or shrimp paste). My H. Crispa in the video above was looking happy for a couple days and then went progressively south. I pulled it out today with the result that many small yellow-green tentacles went free floating in the water column while a melting body of slime came oozing out of my fingers. And then the stench hit me!
This is one of those times I was really, really happy I had some already made up seawater on hand!
This is one of those times I was really, really happy I had some already made up seawater on hand!
OP
OP
TriggersAmuck
Well-Known Member
On the positive side, all four bubble tips have been settling in very well and are looking healthy (slight pre-existing bleaching of the two aside). The two Fire Clowns finally started hosting in them a couple days ago, so that was, what, 5 days for them to make friends?
OP
OP
TriggersAmuck
Well-Known Member
eggplantparrot
Valuable Member
I'll mail you my dead 'nem, you mail me your clam shell?
well one of us is gunna have a worse time of packaging lol
PNW Reefer
New Member
- Joined
- Jan 24, 2020
- Messages
- 19
- Reaction score
- 80
- Location
- Redmond, WA
- What state or country do you live in
- Washington
Im so glad I saw this thread! I have the same tank (aqueon 14g rimless)!
I have mine setup with two aquaclear 30's, two hydor korallia 240's, the fluval marine nano led, some cheap led off amazon for the fuge.
Stocking is a Wyoming White clown and a ruby longfin wrasse, a green BTA (newly added, been hiding under the rock), cleaner shrimp, fighting conch (x2), some bumblebee snails, some turbo snails, and an emerald crab.
My fuge light is a white spectrum only and i run it 24/7. Reading your setup for the fuge, I think im going to switch the lighting to what you have. I have chaeto and a whole lot of other stuff growing in there lol.
I have mine setup with two aquaclear 30's, two hydor korallia 240's, the fluval marine nano led, some cheap led off amazon for the fuge.
Stocking is a Wyoming White clown and a ruby longfin wrasse, a green BTA (newly added, been hiding under the rock), cleaner shrimp, fighting conch (x2), some bumblebee snails, some turbo snails, and an emerald crab.
My fuge light is a white spectrum only and i run it 24/7. Reading your setup for the fuge, I think im going to switch the lighting to what you have. I have chaeto and a whole lot of other stuff growing in there lol.
OP
OP
TriggersAmuck
Well-Known Member
I have some standard algae growing in the refugium as well which I have to clean out weekly on average! My chaeto hasn't grown magnificently, though at least one other reefer did show really good success with this grow light. Not sure what to tell you regards switching lights. I only recently changed the display tank lighting schedule to something more "reeflike" (full day lighting), so I'll see how effective everything is shortly.
Last edited:
PNW Reefer
New Member
- Joined
- Jan 24, 2020
- Messages
- 19
- Reaction score
- 80
- Location
- Redmond, WA
- What state or country do you live in
- Washington
I’m unfortunately a bit lazy about cleaning mine out. Main reason is because there are a lot of pods in there and I don’t want to wipe out their population too much. I think having the light on a timer will help a lot.
OP
OP
TriggersAmuck
Well-Known Member
Mid February update:
I have adjusted my AI Prime (non-HD) light settings to use the David Saxby settings with some adjustments made by myself. I cleaned up some of the unnecessary data points, removed the brief spike in the red spectrum near sunset, shortened the overall photoperiod by about an hour, and adjusted the actual times to meet my schedule better. Here is a dropbox link if anyone wants to check them out (just make sure to back up your own settings first!):
AI-Modified-Saxby-2020-2-17.aip
I also am making use of the built in acclimation feature, as Mr. Saxby's settings are set quite a bit higher than I had my original ones for my anemones. I may have to tweak these "peaks" to significantly lower points, but I'll keep watching how the 'nems adjust as the levels rise (over about a month and a half period).
The tank seems to be doing well considering the near H. Crispa meltdown last week. Guess I caught it soon enough, and the sizable (5/6 total volume) water change probably didn't hurt.
Now to deal with some of the algae forming on the topmost rock, presumably due to the full day lighting schedule.
I have adjusted my AI Prime (non-HD) light settings to use the David Saxby settings with some adjustments made by myself. I cleaned up some of the unnecessary data points, removed the brief spike in the red spectrum near sunset, shortened the overall photoperiod by about an hour, and adjusted the actual times to meet my schedule better. Here is a dropbox link if anyone wants to check them out (just make sure to back up your own settings first!):
AI-Modified-Saxby-2020-2-17.aip
I also am making use of the built in acclimation feature, as Mr. Saxby's settings are set quite a bit higher than I had my original ones for my anemones. I may have to tweak these "peaks" to significantly lower points, but I'll keep watching how the 'nems adjust as the levels rise (over about a month and a half period).
The tank seems to be doing well considering the near H. Crispa meltdown last week. Guess I caught it soon enough, and the sizable (5/6 total volume) water change probably didn't hurt.
Now to deal with some of the algae forming on the topmost rock, presumably due to the full day lighting schedule.
OP
OP
TriggersAmuck
Well-Known Member
I think I might have had my first fish mortality, as I haven't seen the diminutive cryptic wrasse anywhere for the past couple days. As shy as these normally are, this little guy became pretty bold and would be mixing with the much larger fish front and center a good deal of the time. I can't find him on the floor anywhere (though the tank is covered), so either he starved or possibly became anemone food, either with the assistance of the female Fire Clown or not. Time for another water change.
OP
OP
TriggersAmuck
Well-Known Member
Mid-march update:
- Long hair algae has taken root on the upper rock work.
- Two BTAs melted causing a bit of a milkshake for a day.
- Nitrates were testing between 4-8 yesterday.
- Part of the algae/Nitrate increase might have been due to the Tunze Skimmer loosing its efficiency. I had to disassemble the skimmer completely to give it a good overhaul to get it back to performing.
- I exchanged the Sicce Nano pump with a Nero 5 one to increase flow throughout the tank. This seems to work well (at the lowest setting). I set it to feed mode overnight (which never seems to resume normal operation on its own, maybe a benefit to me with such a small tank).
- I reduced the light schedule/intensity from my modified David-Saxby one to a much less aggressive one. 9 hours total consisting of 1 hour ramp ups, with highest blue intensity being 35%.
- I removed the Chaeto and light from the AquaClear to focus on more frequent, more aggressive water changes instead. The amount of time cleaning the AquaClear each week wasn't worth the almost non-existent Chaeto growth.
Last edited:
OP
OP
TriggersAmuck
Well-Known Member
Update 3/22:
- Swapped AquaClear 30 for an AquaClear 70.
- I haven't reattached the grow light yet, but my plan is buy a few golfballs of Chaeto from AlgaeBarn and give that a shot one more time.
- To make room for the AC70 I removed the UV filter that was in the tank from the start. I'm trading off the waterborne algae clarification capability of the UV for the nutrient export capability of the Chaeto/refugium.
- I still have yet to decide if I will get an InTank media basket for the AC70. On the one hand they allow excellent mechanical filtration through the floss chamber, on the other hand they raise the filter's outgoing water level almost to the point of overflowing if the Chaeto blocks any of the outlet holes.
