- Joined
- Nov 28, 2013
- Messages
- 2,553
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- Location
- Sarasota, Florida
- What state or country do you live in
- Florida
Firts off I would like to inform you that most likely you will void your warranty if you open your lights. I will not be held liable for any issues arising from your work.
This will work for reef breeders, reef radiance, or evergrow lights.
I found that my lights were great but could be better. Although the light seller made the light layout and spectrum very well I still feel it was lacking for what i wanted. I took out 2 6500k LEDs and 2 1400k LEDs. I installed 4 480nm Blue LEDs in there place. Next I removed the middle 660nm far red LED and installed a 630 red LED. I wanted a fuller spectrum. The light already had 3 660nm LEDs so replacing one with a 630nm was needed. Why the light didnt have any 480nm blue LEDs I dont know but WOW now the light looks great and I feel that It is the perfect spectrum.
Supplies needed: Pliers, flat prybar/ cutter, soldering iron preferably 60 watts, silicone, screw driver (philips), thermal grease, NEW LEDs of your choosing, (optional) any optics to change out if you want to now is the time the light is open.
to start off I had to open up the light to access the leds. My unit had 6 black screws to remove to get in. Next remove top and set behi nd bottom. Leave power cords hooked up to board for testing purposes. I assume you dont have the unit plugged in. wait until you are ready to test
remove six screws to take out heat sink/ LED board.
next you have to cut the silicone seal around the edge of the heat sink. then you need to pull out the board. Pull on the metal sides of light frame to make sure seal has been cut. Make sure not to pull on wires to remove heatsink and LED board.
Next you have to use a tool to cut the lens holder sealant and pry it off. I used a wood carving set I bought at harbor freight. Make sure that the numbers on the face of the board are not upside down. start from the right and carefully cut and pry up the holder (white thing) i say right side because if you accidentally cut the board lead off its easier for the negative side to make a new contact and not on the positive side as it has a tiny lead.
Next using a soldering iron preferably 60 watts. to remove the led while pulling up with a pair of pliers.
Next solder on new led. I ordered the single leds from reef breeders web site. They cost $1.50 each Make sure that you pay close attention. Inside the lens of the led there is a little dot, this dot need to be down with - to right and + to left. If you do not make sure of this the LED wont work. add thermal grease to spot on board where the LED sits. IF you dont the LED will burn out. Now solder the LED on
Next plug in light. Test that LED(s) work. Next use DAP sealant. I got at HD to re seal the holder back to board. A little is all you need. Use a tiny bit. very light coating.
Put back the way you took apart. Test again then hang over tank
This will work for reef breeders, reef radiance, or evergrow lights.
I found that my lights were great but could be better. Although the light seller made the light layout and spectrum very well I still feel it was lacking for what i wanted. I took out 2 6500k LEDs and 2 1400k LEDs. I installed 4 480nm Blue LEDs in there place. Next I removed the middle 660nm far red LED and installed a 630 red LED. I wanted a fuller spectrum. The light already had 3 660nm LEDs so replacing one with a 630nm was needed. Why the light didnt have any 480nm blue LEDs I dont know but WOW now the light looks great and I feel that It is the perfect spectrum.
Supplies needed: Pliers, flat prybar/ cutter, soldering iron preferably 60 watts, silicone, screw driver (philips), thermal grease, NEW LEDs of your choosing, (optional) any optics to change out if you want to now is the time the light is open.
to start off I had to open up the light to access the leds. My unit had 6 black screws to remove to get in. Next remove top and set behi nd bottom. Leave power cords hooked up to board for testing purposes. I assume you dont have the unit plugged in. wait until you are ready to test
remove six screws to take out heat sink/ LED board.
next you have to cut the silicone seal around the edge of the heat sink. then you need to pull out the board. Pull on the metal sides of light frame to make sure seal has been cut. Make sure not to pull on wires to remove heatsink and LED board.
Next you have to use a tool to cut the lens holder sealant and pry it off. I used a wood carving set I bought at harbor freight. Make sure that the numbers on the face of the board are not upside down. start from the right and carefully cut and pry up the holder (white thing) i say right side because if you accidentally cut the board lead off its easier for the negative side to make a new contact and not on the positive side as it has a tiny lead.
Next using a soldering iron preferably 60 watts. to remove the led while pulling up with a pair of pliers.
Next solder on new led. I ordered the single leds from reef breeders web site. They cost $1.50 each Make sure that you pay close attention. Inside the lens of the led there is a little dot, this dot need to be down with - to right and + to left. If you do not make sure of this the LED wont work. add thermal grease to spot on board where the LED sits. IF you dont the LED will burn out. Now solder the LED on
Next plug in light. Test that LED(s) work. Next use DAP sealant. I got at HD to re seal the holder back to board. A little is all you need. Use a tiny bit. very light coating.
Put back the way you took apart. Test again then hang over tank
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