jessezm
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Apr 24, 2018
- Messages
- 585
- Reaction score
- 565
- Location
- Downtown Atlanta
- What state or country do you live in
- Georgia
Hey folks! I have been out of the nano game for a very long time, so I thought I'd reach out to the community for some ideas and other things I should be thinking about with this new tank.
back story: After I thought I eliminated Monti Eating Nudis from my main 350g system a while ago, they have re-emerged in full force, and I am wanting to completely eradicate them forever.
Through a stroke of luck, I was gifted an IM 16g AIO tank with 3 lighting choices (Current LED, 150w HQI, 4X24w T5) from a local member leaving the hobby. I've cleaned out that tank and set it up with new water and about 5-6 lbs of live rock last night.
I have quite a few montis that are going to go into the tank, including some high end stuff, so I really don't want to mess it up. So I thought I'd try to get some feedback from you all to help maximize my chances of success.
My goal is to have a stable QT tank that can support all incoming SPS indefinitely for observation/isolation.
As a QT tank, I am leaving it bare bottom. But I do want live rock or at least some form of biological filtration, and probably a fish or two. I do have a pair of clowns that are already isolated in my frag tank so I can use them, or I can maybe add a more pest-focused fish like a six-line. But without a sand bed maybe not a great idea...
So here's what I've got covered already:
ATO: (Osmolator is on the way, will have a 5g bucket of RO/DI next to tank)
heater: 50w connected to inkbird temp controller
Here's where I could use some advice:
1. Flow: Icecap Gyre 150 or current loops (I have both lying around, which should I use?)
2. Lighting: need to decide - 150 halide, LED, or t5???? The LEDs are 2X current fixtures that are programmable. One is a bit long for the tank but I can rig something up. advantage here is I would not need to buy a separate timer or anything. I'm not sure if these two lights are sufficient for Montis in a 16g but I suspect they are. But these corals are going to be in here for potentially up to 6 months and I want them to thrive, nut just survive. The the 150w HQI has a nice blue bulb in it, and I like the look and know it would be enough light. And of course you can't beat T5's... but with either of those I need to buy an on/off timer. not a huge deal. So what to use???
3. Cooling: I own a 1/10th hp chiller that I could rig up to the inkbird temp controller, although I would need a pump that could power it. or I could just hook up a fan to blow over the water at a certain temp. Obviously that will increase evaporation, which leads to the next question
4. Supplementation: I don't have a dosing pump. I'd love to avoid daily two-part by adding kalk to my top off water, but this could be uneven and very hard to control. I have done it successfully in the past but I'd love to hear other people's thoughts and experiences. This tank is going to be pretty packed with montis, so there is definitely going to be alk/ca demand. I plan on a weekly water change.
5. Filtration: So I have plenty of live rock I can use, but also limited space. I would almost prefer to have no live rock (i.e. nowhere for pests to hide), and just have the whole tank staged with frag racks. But in that case, should I get some marine pure blocks going and put them in the filter section of the tank? Is there any reason to use anything else in the 2 media baskets? if so, what? Obviously pests can live in the marine pure blocks, too...
6. Cycling: As I mentioned, I have new water in the tank and some LR from the main system. I know there is a risk of contamination from the nudibranchs using LR from the main system, but I think that risk is relatively low since the rock is from the refugium section of a remote sump with no corals that has a few filter bags before it. There is still a risk but I do think what I'll do is start new biopure balls or block media and eventually remove the LR. I do have MB7 and seachem remediation and a few other bacteria supplements I can also employ if necessary to seed new media. I just haven't done this in a while so any advice is appreciated.
7. Livestock: Should I put the clown pair in there? or grab a different cheap fish from petco?? Snails? crabs? stars? shrimp? What CUC should I use?
I know it's a lot of questions, I just want to cover all my bases to maximize my chances of success. I really don't want to lose my kung pao, crazy T, and other nice montis! Do I have my bases covered? What am I missing?
I'll post pics of the setup tonight or tomorrow. Thanks!!!!
back story: After I thought I eliminated Monti Eating Nudis from my main 350g system a while ago, they have re-emerged in full force, and I am wanting to completely eradicate them forever.
Through a stroke of luck, I was gifted an IM 16g AIO tank with 3 lighting choices (Current LED, 150w HQI, 4X24w T5) from a local member leaving the hobby. I've cleaned out that tank and set it up with new water and about 5-6 lbs of live rock last night.
I have quite a few montis that are going to go into the tank, including some high end stuff, so I really don't want to mess it up. So I thought I'd try to get some feedback from you all to help maximize my chances of success.
My goal is to have a stable QT tank that can support all incoming SPS indefinitely for observation/isolation.
As a QT tank, I am leaving it bare bottom. But I do want live rock or at least some form of biological filtration, and probably a fish or two. I do have a pair of clowns that are already isolated in my frag tank so I can use them, or I can maybe add a more pest-focused fish like a six-line. But without a sand bed maybe not a great idea...
So here's what I've got covered already:
ATO: (Osmolator is on the way, will have a 5g bucket of RO/DI next to tank)
heater: 50w connected to inkbird temp controller
Here's where I could use some advice:
1. Flow: Icecap Gyre 150 or current loops (I have both lying around, which should I use?)
2. Lighting: need to decide - 150 halide, LED, or t5???? The LEDs are 2X current fixtures that are programmable. One is a bit long for the tank but I can rig something up. advantage here is I would not need to buy a separate timer or anything. I'm not sure if these two lights are sufficient for Montis in a 16g but I suspect they are. But these corals are going to be in here for potentially up to 6 months and I want them to thrive, nut just survive. The the 150w HQI has a nice blue bulb in it, and I like the look and know it would be enough light. And of course you can't beat T5's... but with either of those I need to buy an on/off timer. not a huge deal. So what to use???
3. Cooling: I own a 1/10th hp chiller that I could rig up to the inkbird temp controller, although I would need a pump that could power it. or I could just hook up a fan to blow over the water at a certain temp. Obviously that will increase evaporation, which leads to the next question
4. Supplementation: I don't have a dosing pump. I'd love to avoid daily two-part by adding kalk to my top off water, but this could be uneven and very hard to control. I have done it successfully in the past but I'd love to hear other people's thoughts and experiences. This tank is going to be pretty packed with montis, so there is definitely going to be alk/ca demand. I plan on a weekly water change.
5. Filtration: So I have plenty of live rock I can use, but also limited space. I would almost prefer to have no live rock (i.e. nowhere for pests to hide), and just have the whole tank staged with frag racks. But in that case, should I get some marine pure blocks going and put them in the filter section of the tank? Is there any reason to use anything else in the 2 media baskets? if so, what? Obviously pests can live in the marine pure blocks, too...
6. Cycling: As I mentioned, I have new water in the tank and some LR from the main system. I know there is a risk of contamination from the nudibranchs using LR from the main system, but I think that risk is relatively low since the rock is from the refugium section of a remote sump with no corals that has a few filter bags before it. There is still a risk but I do think what I'll do is start new biopure balls or block media and eventually remove the LR. I do have MB7 and seachem remediation and a few other bacteria supplements I can also employ if necessary to seed new media. I just haven't done this in a while so any advice is appreciated.
7. Livestock: Should I put the clown pair in there? or grab a different cheap fish from petco?? Snails? crabs? stars? shrimp? What CUC should I use?
I know it's a lot of questions, I just want to cover all my bases to maximize my chances of success. I really don't want to lose my kung pao, crazy T, and other nice montis! Do I have my bases covered? What am I missing?
I'll post pics of the setup tonight or tomorrow. Thanks!!!!
