180 build - should I enlarge drain lines?

[AlmostGosu]

I just bought a MarineLand/Perfecto 180 gallon tank and would like to maintain this tank with the Triton method. I need ~1800 GPH turnover through the sump (10% tank volume), and this is where my problem lies. The tank is drilled through the bottom for 4x standpipes in 1" inner diameter bulkheads. I'm already planning to drill the back for return lines so I can use all 4 as drains & backups.
A gravity fed 1" pipe is rated at 960GPH, which means my 1800 GPH will have my primaries running at 95%. Should I drill out the bottom of the tank for 1.25"?

 

[sbash]

First, have you chosen a skimmer? The 10x rule might be one based on the old closed loop systems. That seems like way too much flow to me. Ideally, your skimmer will have a flow rate on it (unless it is a beast it will be nowhere near 1800 GPH), it would be better to get the flow closer to match the skimmer. I am not sure if your skimmer will under perform, perhaps someone else can chime in on that note?

Second, the bottom of those tanks are usually tempered, so you cannot drill them without shattering the glass.

That said, if you want that much flow, then just stick with the 1" bulkheads; use two as full siphons, one as a durso style standpipe and the other as a dry emergency. That should cover your flow requirements...

 

[AlmostGosu]

First, have you chosen a skimmer? The 10x rule might be one based on the old closed loop systems. That seems like way too much flow to me. Ideally, your skimmer will have a flow rate on it (unless it is a beast it will be nowhere near 1800 GPH), it would be better to get the flow closer to match the skimmer. I am not sure if your skimmer will under perform, perhaps someone else can chime in on that note?

Yep! I'm going to run a Skimz Monster SM202 that's going to be driven by a Sicce Silent 2.0 to match Skimz' recommended 2000lph pulled from the manual. The Sicce pump will sit in the return section of my sump and the outlet of the skimmer is going to feed back into the inlet side of the sump. Based on the reading I've done on the Triton method, the two most important things are to maximize contact time with the chaeto fuge, and to make sure you have a really good light source. The 10x turnover is a Triton requirement that you're right would be too high for most other builds.

Second, the bottom of those tanks are usually tempered, so you cannot drill them without shattering the glass.

That said, if you want that much flow, then just stick with the 1" bulkheads; use two as full siphons, one as a durso style standpipe and the other as a dry emergency. That should cover your flow requirements...

I pulled the pdf from their site and it said their 180 had no tempered panels.
I think you're right though... they can run near 100% and I'll just have to adjust the downspouts less to keep the dursos quiet.

Thanks!

PS: Will durso standpipes drain faster than projected gravity feed rates since they shouldn't be sucking any air?

 

[sbash]

Ah, I have not gone through the 'triton method' write up on their website yet... One day, lol...

PS: Will durso standpipes drain faster than projected gravity feed rates since they shouldn't be sucking any air?

A durso standpipe should have an airhole, usually in the top. Although my Marineland 65 gallon corner flow had the airholes on the sides for some reason, lol...

If that airhole is not present it would be silent until enough water started flowing through, at that point it would start to pulse as it forms and breaks siphons...

 

[jkapit]

I just bought a MarineLand/Perfecto 180 gallon tank and would like to maintain this tank with the Triton method. I need ~1800 GPH turnover through the sump (10% tank volume), and this is where my problem lies. The tank is drilled through the bottom for 4x standpipes in 1" inner diameter bulkheads. I'm already planning to drill the back for return lines so I can use all 4 as drains & backups.
A gravity fed 1" pipe is rated at 960GPH, which means my 1800 GPH will have my primaries running at 95%. Should I drill out the bottom of the tank for 1.25"?

Depending on the amount of surface area of the overflows you may not be able to sustain 1800 GPH through the overflow, especially when some algae starts to narrow-clog the overflow grate. I am not familiar with the triton method, but 1800 GPH through the sump sounds high to me. I have a 180G Oceanic Systems tank with two 1" standpipes. I run 1000 GPH and the systems seems to handle that real well, but I tried to run almost double that and to me it seems like it was too much flow for the overflows,. Maybe someone with the exact setup could weigh in.